Florida Cosmetology clinical EXAM AND STUDY GUIDE NEWEST 2024 ACTUAL QUESTIONS AND CORRECT DETAILED ANSWERS (VERIFIED ANSWERS) |ALREADY GRADED A

base placement

Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

on base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base. (greater volume)

half of base placement

hair is wrapped at a 90° perpendicular to its base section rod is positioned half off its base section minimize stress and tension on hair

off-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base. (least volume)

Base direction

Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.

base sections

Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.

Base

foundation of curl . area closest to the scalp panel of hair which roller is placed

stem

between the base and first arch (turn) gives curl definition and mobility hair between scalp and the first turn of the roller

circle

forms a complete circle the wave size of a curl will determine width/wave and strength

No stem curl

(Betty boo) on base of curly , tight firm long lasting minimum mobility

Half stem curl

Curl placed half off the base; permits medium movement and gives good control to the hair.

full stem movement

greatest mobility placed completely of base near scalp will be flat and almost straight give hair strong define direction

Exothermic

produces heat (alkaline) heats up waving solution

Endothermic

Absorbs/require heat (acid) use hooded dryer (less damaging)

ammonia-free waves

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.

thio-free waves

Perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine. (Still damaging )

low-pH waves

Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate (atg) they have a low pH. Weak don't provide strong curl

hair density

The number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of scalp.

hair porosity

The ability of the hair to absorb moisture

Hair elasticity

The ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length

Low porosity

When the cuticle is tight and the hair is resistant, it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate. What term describes this condition?

High porosity

When the cuticle is lifted and the hair is overly porous and takes color quickly the hair would be said to have

Average porosity

The cuticle is slightly raised. The hair is normal and processes in an average amount of time. (Normal)

Curl rearranger

reduces peptide bonds so hair can relax and become straight; thio-based product (Thio based) (atg)

Curl booster

assists hair to assume new shape of rod when wrapping hair in perm rods; milder form of thio

curl activator

Helps new curl configurations retain their shape and provides moisture; applied frequently after every shampoo

Instant Moisturizer

Helps replace natural moisture and oils lost during chemical processes

How many steps are in curl reformation

2 steps

How many times do you unwind a curl for a curl test

1/1.2

exterior length

Bottom

Interior length

On top

Volume indentation

Brush is positioned underneath

indentation

Brush is positioned on top of hair strand

Resistant porosity

The cuticle layers are smooth, tightly packed and compact.

Average porosity

Cuticle is slightly raised

Extreme porosity

The cuticle is lifted or missing

Overprossed hair

Curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends

Underprocessed Hair

HAIR STRAIGHT AT SCALP AND CURLY AT ENDS

Sodium Hydroxide is

Alkaline

sodium hydroxide oils applied to

Tightly curled hair

Sodium hydroxide ph

11.5-14

Metallic Salts Test

1oz 20-volume peroxide, 20 drops 28% ammonia, immerse 20 hair strands for 30 minutes. if hair lightens rapidly it has metallic salts

Thioglycolic acid

A colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor that is used in permanent waving solutions. Common reducing agent

ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

Alkaline waves

also known as cold waves; have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat

True acid waves

Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.

acid-balanced waves

Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions

Aminomethylpropanol ( AMP) and Monoethanolamine (MEA)

Two substitutes for ammonia in an ammonia-free wave

thio relaxers

Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10). Breaks disulfide bond

Thio neutralization

The process of stopping a permanent wave and reforming the hair into its new curly shape

Lanthionization

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond.

reduction reaction

a chemical change in which electrons are gained, either by the removal of oxygen, the addition of hydrogen, or the addition of electrons

Acid perms have a ph of:

6.9-7.2

Alkaline perms carry a pH of:

8.0-9.5

Alkaline perms also known as

Cold perm

Alkaline perm main ingredient

Ammonium thioglycolate

Alkaline perm are used on

Coarse virgin resistant hair

Alkaline perms produce

Strong curl pattern

Alkaline perms are wrapped

Without tension

Acid perms need what to process?

Heat and tention

acid creates

Firmer curl

Acid perms causes

Minimal swelling

Acid perms reducing agent

Glycerol monothioglycloate

Acid perms are better for

Fragile hair

croquignole perm wrap also know as

Overlap method

croquignole perm wrap

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. Tighter curl on ends

Two types of permrod curls

Croquigonle and spiral perm wrap

spiral perm wrap

Hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the stripes on a candy cane. Uniform curl from scalp to ends

double-rod wrap

Aka piggyback wrap; wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction (extra long hair )

bricklay permanent wrap

perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair

amino acids

Carbon oxygen hydrogen

Double-rod wrap is also called

Piggyback wrap

peptide bond

( end bond) chemical bond formed between amino acids form polypeptide

polypeptide chain

long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds

kertain proteins

are long, coiled polypeptide chains

Side bonds

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.

Salt bond

Weak, physical, broken by ph change (ionic bond)

hydrogen bond

weak physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat reforms hair as it dries or cools

Lye-Based Relaxers

sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers can cause hair loss and skin burns

no-lye relaxers

Reduce scalp irritation lithium hydroxide relaxers and potassium hydroxide relaxers are advertised and sold as:

Low pH relaxers

Intended for use on color treated, damaged or fine hair

lye

Is harsh and can cause damage and irritation

developer

Also known as Catalyst or Hydrogen Peroxide, oxidizing agent added to haircolor or lightener that assists in the development process; it is manufactured in various strengths, known as volumes or percentages

Developer ph

2.5-4.5

Developer volumes

5 vol 10 vol 20vol 30 vol

Neutralizer

Chemical solution that stops the waving process of a permanent wave; rebuilds the bonds into their new form hydrogen peroxide sodium bromate( cause oxidation) cause splits in cysteine

pH of hair and skin

4.5-5.5

neutralizer pH

2.5-7

hydrogen peroxide

H2O2

No lye contains

Sodium hydroxide

Ammonium thioglycolate

Swell and soften

Ammonium thioglycolate ph

8.5-9.5

The technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color low lighting aka

Reverse highlighting

Aniline derivatives

Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.

terminal hair

Long, coarse, pigmented hair found on the scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and females. What cosmetology cut

Anagen

The period of active growth 90%

catagen phase

The brief transition period between the growth and resting phases of a hair follicle. It signals the end of the growth phase. 1-2 weeks

telogen phase

the final growth phase in which hair naturally falls out of the skin 10%

direct dyes

Large colored molecules that do not require a reaction with hydrogen peroxide lives in on layer of hair