rising tide
Also known as flood tide
falling tide
Also known as ebb tide
impact of tides on shorelines
control how much of the shore is effected by wave action
difference between tidal wave and tsunami
tidal waves are caused by ocean tides, tsunamis are caused by seismic waves
impact of waves on shoreline
erodes and transports sediment
highest part of a wave
Also known as crest
lowest part of a wave
Also known as trough
wave height
Difference between crest and trough
factors affecting wave height
wind velocity, wind duration, and the fetch
depth at which orbital water motion dissipates
the wave base
calculation of depth at which orbital water motion dissipates
wave base = L/2
classification of ocean waves
deep water, intermediate, and shallow water waves
wave base
When reached by nearshore waves, wave velocity and wave energy decrease, while wave height increases
wave refraction
waves that approach parallel to the shoreline and get bent by friction
longshore drift
Movement of sediment parallel to shore when waves approach the shoreline at an angle
fingerlike ridge of sediment that cuts bay from ocean
baymouth bar/spit
profile of coastal environment
beach face, berm, dunes and lagoon
depositional and erosional features
wave erosion produces sea coasts
Marine platform/terrace
A gently sloping surface
Two types of marine terraces
wave cut and wave built
barrier islands
Ridges of sand that parallel mainland & exist seperate from mainland thanks to lagoon.
factor responsible for changes in beach profile
Changing wave conditions
seasonal changes in width of depositional environment
The berm changes in width seasonally
groin
short walls built perpendicular to shore to restrict sediment transport.
breakwaters
Structures built off shore & built parallel to shore. Gets less deposition then groins.
jetties
rock walls designed to protect the inlands
characteristics of an erosional coast
Consists of steep rocks or soluble rock. (wave cut cliffs, sea stacks, arches, headlands)
How an irregular coastline become straight over time
Coastal straightening
erosional features of retreating headlands
seastacks and arches
current cause of global sea level rise
the melting of glaciers
bad coastal management practices
building structures too close to water, ocean dumping, overfishing
coastal classifications based on sea level
Emergent Coast & Submergent Coast (VA Beach)
What classification is an emergent coast
Marine terrace
What classification is a submergent coast
Estuary