Chemical Texture Services/Perms

Chemical texture services

hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

A strong, compact cuticle makes for

resistant hair

Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair require a perm solution that is

less alkaline

Changing the natural wave pattern of the hair is made possible by the breaking of the

side bonds

Of the three types of side bonds, disulfide bonds are the

strongest

Salt bonds are easily broken by

changes in pH

A wet set

an example of a physical change

The major difference between a wet set and a perm is

the type of side bonds broken

Reduction

when permanent waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds in the cortex through a chemical reaction

In permanent waving solutions, thiol compounds act

reducing agents

Ammonium thioglycolate is produced by adding ___________ to thioglycolic acid

ammonia

Alkaline waves are also called

cold waves

Most true acid waves require

heat to speed processing

Most of the acid waves in today's salons have

a pH between 7.8 to 8.2

Endothermic

permanent waves that require heat from an outside source, usually a hair dryer

One benefit of ammonia-free waves

they have no unpleasant ammonia odor

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair

within the first 5 to 10 minutes

Resistant hair

this type of hair especially requires complete saturation of the hair for proper processing in all permanent waves

A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild about ______ percent of the hair's disulfide bonds

50

If the hair is underprocessed

too few disulfide bonds are broken

Neutralizer performs two functions, deactivating any remaining wave solution in the hair and

rebuilding broken disulfide bonds

Oxidation

the chemical reaction involved in neutralizing

Perm solution should be rinsed from the hair before neutralizing to avoid scalp irritation and

lightening the hair color

The hydrogen atoms in the broken disulfide bonds are so strongly attracted to the oxygen in the neutralizer that they release their bonds with

the sulfur atoms

The size of the perm tool determines

the size of the curl

Wrapping the hair on small tools

increases the tension

For perm wrapping, the hair is divided into panels, then into

base sections

The position of the tool in relation to its base section is called

base control

Base control

is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

On-base placement

the hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section

Off-base placement

the hair is wrapped 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section

Caution should be used with on-base placement

because it places additional stress and tension on the hair

Of the various base controls, the least amount of volume is created by

off-base placement

Base direction

the angle at which the perm tool is positioned on the head

Croquignole wrapping

the wrapping technique where the hair is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping layers

In the spiral perm wrapping technique

, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular

Concave rods

rods with a smaller circumference in the center than at the ends

Straight rods

rods with the same circumference along their entire length or curling area

The distinguishing feature of soft bender rods is

that they can be bent into many shapes

Circle tools or loop rods are

ideal for spiral wrapping very long hair

End wraps

absorbent papers used when winding hair on perm tools to control the hair ends

Single flat wrap

when you place one end paper over the top of the hair strands as you wrap it around the perm tool

Bookend wrap

when you fold one end paper in half over the hair ends like an envelope

Double flat wrap

the end paper technique that provides the most control over the hair ends and keeps them evenly distributed

Straight set wrap

the basic perm wrap is also called

Curvature perm wrap

the perm wrap that creates a movement that curves within sectioned-out panels

Weave technique

zigzag partings are used to divide base areas in this perm wrapping technique

Piggyback wrap

the double tool perm technique

The spiral perm technique

produces a uniform curl from scalp to ends

To determine the proper processing time needed for optimal curl development

you should do preliminary test curls

When giving a partial perm, you can make a smooth transition from a rolled to an unrolled section by

using a larger tool as the last tool next to an unrolled section

Hydrogen bonds are very weak, but they account for about _____ of the hair's total strength

1/3

By making a point of keeping accurate, up-to-date client records

you will improve your technical skills

The most important factors to consider in a hair analysis for chemical texture services

texture, density, porosity, elasticity, and growth direction

Hair texture

is described with the terms coarse, medium, and fine

When treated with chemical texture services, coarse hair is

usually harder to penetrate

Fine hair

the hair texture that is the most fragile and easiest to process with permanent waving solution

Elasticity

the single most important factor in determining the ability of hair to hold a curl

Wet hair with normal elasticity can stretch_____________________________and then return to that length without breaking

up to 50 percent of its original length

The first part of any perm, wrapping the hair on perm rods, causes a

physical change

The second part of any perm, the application of waving solution and neutralizer, causes a

chemical change

Perm solution should be rinsed from the hair for

at least five minutes

After rinsing perm solution from the hair, the next step is

to blot the rods with towels

An optional step after blotting the hair and before applying neutralizer is to

apply a pre-neutralizing conditioner

Unless the scalp is irritated, hair that has just been permed may be colored with

demipermanent haircolor

It is safe to perm hair that has been treated with

thio relaxer

Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause

severe discoloration, hair breakage, or uneven curls

To test for metallic salts in the hair, immerse at least 20 strands in a mixture of

peroxide and ammonia