7.2 Waves

Based on the characteristics of this wave, determine its wavelength, wave height, frequency, depth of wave base, and whether it’s a deep or shallow water wave?

Distance from crest to crest: 60m. Distance from trough to crest: 1.5m. Wave period: 10s. Distance from sea surface to seafloor: 50m.

Wavelength: 0m. Wave height: 0m. Frequency: 0s. Depth of water base: 0m. Shallow water wave. (placeholder)

Two waves of equal wavelength cross each other. Wave A has a height of 2m. Wave B has a height of 1m. What would the wave height be when they cross with constructive interference? What about destructive interference?

Constructive interference: 0m. Destructive interference: 0m. (placeholder)

What are some of the disturbances that cause waves in the ocean?

Wind, earthquakes, and gravitational forces

What is the amplitude of a wave?

The distance from flat water to the crest of a wave

What is the period of a wave?

The time it takes for 2 crests to pass a fixed point

What is the frequency of a wave?

The number of waves that pass a fixed point within a specified amount of time (frequency = the inverse of the period AKA 1/period)

What is the measure for frequency?

Hertz (Hz), meaning “per second”

What is the equation for wave speed?

Speed = wavelength/period

What is the relationship between wave speed and wavelength?

Speed increases with increasing wavelength, or the greater wavelength, the faster the wave.

What is the relationship between wave period and wave frequency?

Wave period is the inverse of the wave frequency and vice versa. This means that the greater the wave period, the lower the wave frequency.

What is the wave base?

The depth at which the wave can be felt (wave base = wavelength/2)

Which of the following would typically generate a wave with the largest wave height: wind, gravity, or a 7.0 magnitude earthquake? Why?

A 7.0 magnitude earthquake. It would typically cause a tsunami.