Oceanography Exam 3

Waves

movement through body of water caused by disturbing force

Disturbing forces include

wind, changes in density, living and seismic activity,

ocean waves

orbital waves, move in circular movement before returning to origin point

longitudinal wave

move in parallel movement, sound waves

transverse wave

perpendicular movement, electromagnetic (radio, light)

crest

Highest point of a wave

trough

Lowest point of a wave

Wavelength

the distance between two crests or two troughs

wave height

the vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough

wave frequency

The number of waves passing a fixed point per second.

wave period

the time required for one wavelength to pass a given point

wave base

The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible. It is equal to one-half the wavelength

wave base is

1/2 wavelength

stokes drift

energy that pushes and drags water to move and become a current

capillary waves

small waves or ripples on the surface of the water

gravity waves

gravity becomes restoring force when waves get bigger

surface tension

A measure of how difficult it is to stretch or break the surface of a liquid (like a skin over the water)

surface skin is the restoring force of what wave?

capillary waves

What three things build up waves?

Fetch, Wind Speed, and Wind Duration

Fetch

The distance that the wind has traveled across open water

Forced Waves

within a storm being generated and developed

Free Waves

when the waves move out of the storm and start to seperate

Swells

groups of identical waves