OCEANOGRAPHY 1080 FINAL

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32 Terms

1
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The time between two successive waves (i.e. the time it takes to complete one wave cycle) is called the

period

2
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What is the definition of fetch with regards to wave generation?

the distance over which the wind blows in the same direction

3
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A tsunami may result from:

tectonic activity on the seafloor

4
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<p>Which of the following is the best description of the path of a water molecule at location B as the wave moves through it (ignore Stokes Drift)?</p>

Which of the following is the best description of the path of a water molecule at location B as the wave moves through it (ignore Stokes Drift)?

the water molecules moves in a counterclockwise orbit

5
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<p>Match the letter with the appropriate term</p>

Match the letter with the appropriate term

  • wave crest: B

  • wave height: E

  • wavelength: A

  • trough: C

  • amplitude: D

6
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As a wave approaches the shoreline, it eventually breaks because it:

reaches its critical steepness as friction causes waves to slow down and pile up

7
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The duration of time it takes to reach a fully developed sea is influenced by:

both the distance of the fetch and the speed of the winds

8
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Capillary waves:

  • have a restoring force that is primarily surface tension.

  • are also known as ripples

  • are the first waves to form when the wind starts to blow.

9
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A region of the ocean is considered a fully developed sea when:

the energy imparted by the wind equals the energy dissipated by the breaking whitecaps

10
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The differences between seas and swells include:

seas describe wave conditions in areas where the wind is blowing (locally-generated) and swells describe wave conditions in areas where the wind is not blowing (remotely-generated) and seas have waves that have steep sides whereas swells have symmetrically shaped waves.

11
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Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference results in:

smaller waves

12
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What is Stokes Drift?

It describes the gradual net transport of material and water particles in the direction that the wave is moving.

13
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<p>A neap tide would occur:</p>

A neap tide would occur:

during the scenario represented in B

14
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The gravitational attraction of ______ with the Earth results in the largest tide producing force on Earth.

the Moon

15
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At amphidromic points: 

the amplitude of the tidal wave is 0 (i.e. high and low tides do not influence sea level at these points)

16
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What physical characteristics affect the magnitude of a gravitational attraction between two objects?

both the mass of the objects and the distance between the objects

17
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A spring tide is characterized by:

very high high-tides and very low low-tides.

18
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During full moons and new moons:

there are larger tidal ranges because the Earth, the Moon and the Sun are in line with each other

19
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Which of the following descriptions is most accurate when describing the orbital relationship between the Earth and the Moon.

the Earth and the Moon rotate around each other with a center of gravity that is beneath the surface of the Earth

20
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In one day, an area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have:

two high tides of nearly equal height and two low tides of nearly equal height

21
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The two tidal bulges (two high tides and two low tides) on an idealized earth (without continents) occur because_________.

gravitational pull of the moon and sun on the Earths oceans creates bulges (2) of water

22
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Which of the following statements is true with regards to respiration?

respiration releases energy that is then stored in the high-energy chemical bonds of the molecule ATP.

23
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When does the spring phytoplankton bloom happen?

when the mixing depth is above the critical depth

24
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The spring phytoplankton bloom (an increase in biomass) occurs because: 

  • nutrients have been mixed to the surface during the winter so nutrient concentrations are high in surface waters during the spring.

  • light levels increase during in the spring.

  • the thermocline shoals (gets shallower) during the spring, allowing phytoplankton to live closer to the surface where there is more light for photosynthesis.

25
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Where are rates of primary productivity higher (compared to the average ocean)?

along coastlines, the equator and higher latitudes

26
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Why do dissolved nutrient concentrations (dissolved nitrate and phosphate) in ocean waters increase with depth in the ocean?

  • nutrients are incorporated into cells during biosynthesis at the surface and released by decomposition at depth.

  • because the water column is often stratified (i.e. a thermocline exists), it is difficult to get nutrients that are at depth back to the surface.

27
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Why are rates of primary productivity higher (compared to the open ocean) along the coastlines?

Ekman upwelling and tidal mixing occurs along coastlines, bringing nutrients to the surface.

28
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What answer best describes the role of the open ocean in primary productivity, compared to coastal and upwelling zones?

the open ocean has lower rates of primary productivity but a higher percentage of total ocean production.

29
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Why are rates of primary productivity higher at higher latitudes?

there is more winter convective mixing at higher latitudes due to a deeper or absent thermocline during the winter months or, in some very high latitudes, throughout most of the year.

30
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Why is nitrogen often the limiting nutrient in biological production?

  • phosphorous is released relatively quickly after organisms die and therefore it is more available in the surface waters.

  • according to the Redfield Ratio, phytoplankton cells need 16 nitrogen atoms for every 1 phosphorous atom.

31
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What process releases nutrients (stored in cells) back into the ocean?

decomposition

32
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An autotroph is an organism that:

makes its own food through photosynthesis (or chemosynthesis).