Design & Technology - Wood Joints

Butt Joint

Simple joint for boxes. Usually strengthened with fasteners such as nails and screws or with dowels or blocks.

Dovetail Nailing

Butt joint that is strengthened further using criss-cross nailing technique.

Cross Halving

Used whenever it is necessary to join two pieces of wood that cross over each other. Examples include railing, tables, and chairs.

Half Lap / Corner Halving

Can be used where great strength is not required. They are also much easier to mark out and cut.

Dovetail Halving

Used when great strength is required. Very difficult to pull apart because of the dovetail shape of one of the pieces. More difficult than a simple tee halving.

Mitre Joint

Uses a 45° angle. Similar to butt joint and therefore quite weak. Can be strengthened by reinforcement with keys.

Angled Bridle Joint / Plain Bridle Joint

Used when a light frame is needed and strength is not the main requirement. Example: Picture frame.

Mortise and Tenon Joint

Very strong when glued together. With enough force, it will eventually break or come loose. Used for tables or cabinets.

Wedged Mortise and Tenon Joint

Extremely strong because the tenon is wedged at the other side. More difficult to mark out and cut. Requires much more technical skill.

Dowelled Mortise and Tenon Joint

A piece of dowel rod is drilled through. Can withstand great pressure.

Dowel Joint

Quick, permanent method. Not the strongest method. Example: Modern furniture.

Housing Joint

Also known as housing/trench/dado. Used for shelves and partitions (cabinets/bookcases).

Finger Comb Joint

Ideal for carcase construction. Can be used with natural wood (pine/mahogany) or manmade boards (plywood, MDF).

Dovetail Joint

Used where great strength is required. Difficult to pull apart.

Plastic Corner Block (Knock Down Fitting)

A block is pressed against 2 pieces of wood. Generally used to fit modern cabinets in the kitchen and good for difficult corners.