CTD 261 Final Exam

Candled

When a fabric is passed over light to inspect it for flaws

Vertical Operation

When a manufacturer is involved in several steps of the process, having financial and/or operational control over them

Horizontal Operation

When a manufacturer is engaged in only one step of the process

The Trade

Architects, interior architects, specifiers, facility managers, interior designers, interior design consultants, interior decorators

Distribution Network

Regional fabric companies or houses, whose headquarters are in cities other than New York, and distribute regionally or nationally through sales representatives and at trade shows

Upstream

The immediate suppliers each segment needs to fulfill needs of purchase

Downstream

The need for an outlet or purchaser of goods when they have been further processed

Cut Yardage

The length of textile calculated for the application, with 10 yards as an average purchase

Piece Goods

A way in which some jobbers or fabric houses will sell to designers, textile can be given a discount of 5-10% off the designer price or 50% off the whole sale or net price. The number of yards for a job should utilize the entire piece of textile

Open Line Fabric

A fabric that is widely purchased

Job Lot

A miscellaneous group of articles, especially when sold or bought together

Continuing Education Unit

Required in a licensed profession in order for the professional to maintain the license; reviews current trends

Post Occupancy Evaluation

A review of a completed project after the client has occupied it for some time, typically 3-6 months

Stages of Textile Manufacturing

1. Raw material
2. Cleaned and carded
3. Spinning
4. Weaving or knitting
5. Dyeing
6. Finishing
7. Home furnishings production
8. Retail Store
9. Ultimate Consumer

Natural Protein Fiber/Fabrics

Silk, wool, and leather

Natural Cellulosic Fibers/Fabrics

Cotton and linen

Work Order

Is usually a task or a job for a customer that can be scheduled or assigned to someone. Such an order may be from a customer request or created internally within the organization

Purchase Order

A standard or customized form where information instructs the supplier to ship the correct textile to the correct location

Invoice

A list of goods sent or services provided, with a statement of the sum due for these; a bill

Sample Order

Piece of cloth or fabric designed to represent a larger whole. A small sample, usually taken from existing fabric

Greige Goods

The unfinished state of fabric

Rolled Goods

A full piece is an average of 50 yards and a half piece is about 25 yards, although it may vary

Cut Goods

Retailers who buy overstocked textiles, discontinued pieces, and/or second quality goods and sell the textiles to the general public

Oleophobic

Describes fibers that repel oil

Oleophilic

Describes fibers that readily absorb oil

Hygroscopic

Describes fibers that absorb significant amounts of water without feeling wet

Hydrophobic

Describes fibers that repel or avoid water

Hydrophilic

Describes fibers that readily absorb water

Tenacity

One of the characteristics of a fiber to become a viable yarn; synonym for strength in the textile world; ability to withstand pressure of spinning and construction

Absorbency

Ability of the fiber to absorb water without damaging the fabric

Degumming

The process of removing seracin from the raw silk by hand

Abrasion Resistance

Ability of fibers to resist deterioration or thinning of yarns due to friction between materials

Weighting

Process of adding metallic salts to silk which helps maintain dye color; speeds the deterioration of silk because fabric is too heavy to maintain its weight

Fadometer

Measures colorfastness

Colorfastness

Ability of dyed or printed fiber or textiles to resist fading caused by prolonged exposure to sunlight or artificial light

Denier

Measuring tenacity in manufactured fibers; denotes the yarn measurement equal to the grams of weight of 9,000 meters of yarn

Crocking

The wet or dry transfer of color from a textile

Dimensional Stability

Ability of a fiber to remain in original shape; resistance to sagging or stretching

Flame Resistance

Inherent resistance to combustion, sustained burning, the ability to self-extinguish

Staple Fiber

Short fibers; natural fibers or cut lengths from filaments

Filament Fiber

A long continuous fiber

Mercerization

Exposure of the yarn or greige fabric to sodium hydroxide or liquid ammonia; especially referring to cotton in which cotton polymers are realigned for better strength and absorption

Combing

Process that separates long fibers from short fibers

Spinnerette

The object through which dope is extruded forming filament or monofilament fibers; resembles a showerhead

Melt Spinning

Fibers are produced by melting the polymer chips to form a solution, extruding the solution, and then solidifying it into a fiber by cooling it

Wet Spinning

Fibers are produced by chemically reacting material to form a soluble derivative, extruding it, and then solidifying the soluble derivative through its reactions with the chemicals in a chemical bath

Dry Spinning

Fibers are produced by dissolving the material in a solvent, extruding the fluid, and then solidifying the fiber by drying it in warm air

Silk

Natural protein fiber
High luster
Good drape
Resists solvents and acids
Dimensionally stable

Rayon

Manufactured cellulosic fiber
Excellent drape
Silk-like luster
Sensitive to acids
Highly absorbent

Olefin

Manufactured synthetic fibers
Very durable
Good resilience
Resists acid and alkali damage
Used for carpeting

Linen

Natural cellulosic fiber
Moderate to very strong
"crisp" appearance
Stringer when wet
Low luster
Hard to remove wrinkles

Cotton

Natural cellulosic fiber
Low luster
Hydrophilic
High stiffness
Wrinkles easily
Most widely used fiber

Nylon

Manufactured synthetic fiber
Exceptionally strong
Lustrous sheen
Good elastic recovery
Abrasion resistant

Wool

Acetate

Manufactured cellulosic fiber
"beauty fiber" with few redeeming qualities

Acrylic / Modacrylic

Manufactured synthetic fiber
Good resilience
Wool-like texture
Resists chemicals and aging
May fuzz and pill

Spandex

PLA (polyactide)

Manufactured dextrose fiber
Excellent hand, drape, and luster
High tenacity

Air Jet Texturizing

Straight yarns are fed through a stream of turbulent air that partially explodes the filament, causing the outermost fibers to curl into loops on the surface

Nub

Tiny tufts randomly spun into the yarn in the same color as the yarn

Staple Yarns

Short spun fibers, that are not smooth

Filament Yarns

Is composed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twisted together; smooth, straight, almost parallel

Simple Yarn

Single, produced in one operation, often simply twisted multifilament

Complex or Novelty Yarn

Typically made of two or more strands, are produced to provide decorative surface effects

Fancy Yarn

Also known as effect yarn, is a nub, slub, crepe, or texturized yarn which is would or laid in a regular or irregular zig zag pattern

Chenille Yarn

Yarns used to create a pile-like surface, made by leno-weaving a thick fabric with thick spaced warp yarns and fine weft threads

Spun Yarns

Derived from all natural fibers (except cultured silk) and from manufactured fibers cut into staple lengths which are "thrown" into a continuous strand

Thread Count

The number of warp and weft yarns in a square inch f fabric, best is 400-500 range, anything higher is a waste

Gear Crimping

Filament bundles pass between intermeshing gears to produce a crimp; size of gears determines the size of the crimp. Yarn passes through two sets of heated gears. Not used frequently

Monofilament

A single, untwisted synthetic filament (as of nylon)

Plain Weave

A basic thread weave, regular yarn interlacing alternately under and over the warp yarns

Basket Weave

A balance of two or more warps simultaneously with one or more fillings, under over weave, 2 strings

Twill Weave

When one weft yarn is weaved over a warp, then skipping two, three, or four, then interlacing one under, diagonal lines

Satin Weave

A fine warp yarn is floated over up to either weft yarns, then tying down that one yarn, long floats in warp or filling direction

Jacquard

Used as the background weaves in Jacquard fabrics and produces a smooth, formal, and lustrous background

Schiffli

Process by which mass-produced textiles are embroidered

Sateen

Variation of the satin weave; is a cotton textile woven in a satin weave or the interlacing of yarns so that the weft yarns float and are tied by warp yarns

Warp Sateen

A spun-yarn satin-weave in which warp yarns form the technical face of the fabric. Warp = vertical

Taffeta

A fine lustrous silk or similar synthetic fabric with a crisp texture

Tapestry

Plain weave goods often produced by hand by natives often motifs are simple, abstract, and ethnic

Pique Weave

Plain weave variation accomplished with a dobby loom; creates a tree dimensional effect

Ratine

Tightly curled or texturized and plied in a regular zig-zag or rick-rack pattern across the core yarn

Leno

Plain weave variation constructs the cloth so that a twisted hourglass design is seen in the warp yarns

Dobby

Typically, a plain weave background cloth; with a small geometric pattern woven into the cloth

Corduroy

A cut pile with vertical ribs, a cotton cloth with ridges

China Silk

A soft, lightweight, opaque plain-weave fabric made from fine filament yarns and used for apparel

Tweed

Woolen cloth made with two or more colors of yarn

Chenille

Made by leno weaving a thick fabric with thick spaced warp yarns and fine weft threads

Chiffon

A sheer fabric of silk, nylon, or rayon in plain weave

Examples of Nonwoven Fabrics

Cloth, such as felt, artificial suede, lace, and net, made from construction methods other than weaving or knitting

Woolen

Part of the wool spinning system which produces a shorter staple, bulky, loft, and fuzzy yarns

Passementerie

Manufactured trimming including fringe, gimp, tassels, cord, and braid. Made from fine silk, rayon, polyester, or cotton threads or yarns

Matelasse

A double weave fabric with a quilted appearance

Laminated

Also called bonded fabrics, are a compound cloth process of joining two fabric layers in a permanent, fused construction

Bleaching

A wet prefinish process to remove inherent color by submerging any fiber of greige in a solution containing bleach which removes the gray and allows further coloring to be more clear and bright, and unprinted areas to remain white in a given color way

Greige

Raw goods state, dingy off-white color

Metamerism

The appearance of a change in color of a fabric depending on the light source used. The appearance of one color in one light and another color in another light

Flame Retardant Finish

Inhibit the rate of ignition, flame spread, and encourage the fabric to self extinguish

Conversion

The series of treatments a textile must undergo to be finished or complete and to become saleable or marketable

Tie-Dye

A resist-dyeing method in which the fabric is folded, gathered, knotted, and tied, then dipped into a dye bath. Where the string is tied, and where the fabric is bundled, the dye is resisted