week 8 ~ coastal

what is eustatic/global sea level?

what is local sea level?

relative elevation between average sea surface coastline and coastline of land mass

what are waves?

undulations formed by wind blowing over surface of water

transfer of energy from wind to water

what type of orbit do deep water waves have?

circular

moving up and down not acc towards the coast

what type of orbit do intermediate water waves have?

elliptical

what type of orbit do shallow water waves have?

linear

what is wave refraction?

change in wave speed due to diff water depths

slows down in shallow water and bends towards coast

what is wave diffraction?

waves bend around obstacles and through narrow openings

what are the wave zones?

surf → waves breaking

swash → waves move up the beach

undertow → waves retreat

what are the types of breaks?

spilling → flat surface

plunging → deep to shallow

collapsing

surging → surge up steep beach

which wave types are constructive?

surging

spilling

collapsing

which wave types are destructive?

plunging

what are longshore currents?

SA;HKASHFAKJSLFHDKSA

occur in shallow water

have wind blowing parallel to the coastline

what are nearshore currents?

ALSJDHF;EHSLKAHSFKJASHD

what are tides

KJSHDFKAHWH

what are storm induced surges and seiches?

what is this?

sloping shore platform

what is this?

horizontal shore platform → diff geological layers

what is this?

plunging cliff

what are these?

cliff based notches → eroded bottom making a hanging cliff

what are these?

marine potholes

what are these?

sea caves → weaker area eroded

what are these?

arches

what are these?

stacks → resiliant material left over

what are these?

stumps

what is this?

tombolo → spit connecting to island

what is this?

spit

what are these?

sandbars → accumulation of sand

what are these?

barrier islands → along the coast, more permanent

what is this?

lagoon → enclosed area of the ocean

what is this?

atoll

what is this?

tidal flats → settling of clay and silt material

what is this?

salt marsh

what is this?

mangal

how are salt marshes and mangals formed?

when salt tolerant vegetation colonizes tidal flats