week 8 ~ coastal

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Geology

University/Undergrad

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35 Terms

1
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what is eustatic/global sea level?
2
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what is local sea level?
relative elevation between average sea surface coastline and coastline of land mass
3
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what are waves?
undulations formed by wind blowing over surface of water

transfer of energy from wind to water
4
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what type of orbit do deep water waves have?
circular

moving up and down not acc towards the coast
circular moving up and down not acc towards the coast
5
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what type of orbit do intermediate water waves have?
elliptical
elliptical
6
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what type of orbit do shallow water waves have?
linear
linear
7
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what is wave refraction?
change in wave speed due to diff water depths

slows down in shallow water and bends towards coast
8
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what is wave diffraction?
waves bend around obstacles and through narrow openings
9
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what are the wave zones?
surf → waves breaking

swash → waves move up the beach

undertow → waves retreat
10
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what are the types of breaks?
spilling → flat surface

plunging → deep to shallow

collapsing

surging → surge up steep beach
spilling → flat surface plunging → deep to shallow collapsing surging → surge up steep beach
11
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which wave types are constructive?
surging

spilling

collapsing
12
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which wave types are destructive?
plunging
13
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what are longshore currents?
SA;HKASHFAKJSLFHDKSA

occur in shallow water

have wind blowing parallel to the coastline
14
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what are nearshore currents?
ALSJDHF;EHSLKAHSFKJASHD
15
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what are tides
KJSHDFKAHWH
16
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what are storm induced surges and seiches?
17
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what is this?
what is this?
sloping shore platform
18
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what is this?
what is this?
horizontal shore platform → diff geological layers
19
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what is this?
what is this?
plunging cliff
20
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what are these?
what are these?
cliff based notches → eroded bottom making a hanging cliff
21
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what are these?
what are these?
marine potholes
22
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what are these?
what are these?
sea caves → weaker area eroded
23
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what are these?
what are these?
arches
24
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what are these?
what are these?
stacks → resiliant material left over
25
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what are these?
what are these?
stumps
26
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what is this?
what is this?
tombolo → spit connecting to island
27
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what is this?
what is this?
spit
28
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what are these?
what are these?
sandbars → accumulation of sand
29
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what are these?
what are these?
barrier islands → along the coast, more permanent
30
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what is this?
what is this?
lagoon → enclosed area of the ocean
31
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what is this?
what is this?
atoll
32
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what is this?
what is this?
tidal flats → settling of clay and silt material
33
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what is this?
what is this?
salt marsh
34
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what is this?
what is this?
mangal
35
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how are salt marshes and mangals formed?
when salt tolerant vegetation colonizes tidal flats