Chapter 2 Being Prepared

Sampling

Gives a clear direction for the project and an idea of the notions needed to get started, preventing stitching mistakes.

Woven fabric

Fabric made of warp and weft yarns that interlace at right angles.

Types of weave

Include plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.

Knitted fabric

Created by forming a row of loops and then drawing another row of loops through that row.

Natural fibers

Fibers derived from plants and animals.

Synthetic fibers

Fibers formed from chemical compounds.

Regenerated fibers

Manufactured from natural materials and then chemically processed into fibers.

Blended fibers

Fibers that blend two or more fibers together to combine the best qualities of each.

Fabric grain

The direction in which the yarns in the fabric lie.

Lengthwise grain

The most frequently used grainline for cutting woven fabric, running along the length of the fabric.

Crosswise grain

Has more give than the lengthwise grain and drapes differently.

Bias grain

Where the crosswise and lengthwise yarns intersect at a 45 degree angle.

T-bar in grainline

Drawn at one end of the grainline if the fabric needs to be cut directionally.

Asymmetrical patterns

Require a T-bar directional grainline to ensure correct cutting direction.

Hem allowances

Driven more by the garment silhouette and can vary by skirt type.

Circle skirt hem allowance

Can be .5 inch and uses a narrow, rolled hem.

Aligning fabric

Tearing the fabric firmly across the crossgrain for accuracy.

Blocking

Gently pulling the fabric on both ends of the bias grain.

Embroidery scissors

Used for detailed cutting, approx. 4-6 inches in size.

Burrs on needles

Can damage fabric and are caused by running the sewing machine too fast.

Leather fabric

Does not have a grain and should not be backstitched.