Chapter 2 Being Prepared

Sampling gives a clear direction for the project and an idea of the notions needed to get started, and will prevent stitching mistakes.

Woven fabric has warp and weft yarns that interlace at right angles to each other.

Types of weave include plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.

Knitted fabric is created by forming a row of loops and then drawing another row of loops through that row, again and again. Knit fabric stretches because of the loop structure.

Natural fibers derive from plants and animals.

Synthetic fibers are formed from chemical compounds.

Regenerated fibers are manufactured from natural materials and then chemically processed into fibers.

Blended fibers are one that blend two or more fibers together to combine the best qualities of each fiber.

Fabric grain is the direction in which the yarns in the fabric lie.

The lengthwise grain is the most frequently used grainline for cutting woven fabric. The warp yarns run along the length of the fabric, which is the lengthwise grain.

The lengthwise grain helps to control the stitching and prevents seams from stretching in the stitching process.

The selvage runs in the direction of the lengthwise grain.

The crosswise grain or crossgrain has more give than the lengthwise grain, and drapes differently than a garment cut on the lengthwise grain.

The bias grain is where the crosswise and lengthwise yarns intersect at a 45 degree angle.

Bias grain stretches the most, and is more difficult to cut and stitch.

Bias-cut garments drape beautifully.

A lengthwise grainline is drawn parallel to the center front/center back of a pattern. (Parallel to the selvage.)

A T-bar is drawn at one end of the grainline and an arrow at the other end if the fabric needs to be cut directionally. (Fabrics/garments with a one-way fabric design or a pile need every fabric piece to be cut in the same direction.)

A T-bar directional grainline is also required on asymmetrical patterns, so the pieces are not places in the opposite direction on the fabric for cutting.

A crosswise grainline is drawn at a 90 degree angle to the center front/center back. (Selvage to selvage)

Patterns can be labeled WSU (wrong side up) which indicates the pattern is placed on the wrong side of the fabric.

Hem allowances are driven more by the garment silhouette.

Straight skirts with a narrow, slim fitting cut can have a 1.5-2 inch seam allowance.

A-line skirts have a wider silhouette, so the hem allowance can be 1.5 inches to reduce bulk.

A flared skirt is wide, so the hem allowance can be 1 inch.

A circle skirt is full and flouncy, so the hem allowance can be .5 inch, and stitch a narrow, rolled hem.

Hem allowances are reduced to .5-1 inch in knits.

Tearing the fabric firmly across the crossgrain is the most accurate method of aligning fabric.

Fabrics with a coarse or loose weave cannot be torn. Knits will not tear.

Blocking is gently pulling the fabric on both ends of the bias grain.

Extra yardage is required to accommodate fabrics that must be matched up to create a continuous pattern around the body. Approx. ¼ yard for small plaids, ½ yard for medium plaids, and 1 yard for large plaids.

In a pile weave or napped fabric, the short fiber ends of spun yarns are raised, producing a oft fabric surface. The direction in which the pile lies is called the nap. All napped fabric must be cut in one direction.

Embroidery scissors are approx. 4-6 inches and are used for detailed cutting, such as cutting into a point or cutting the end of each buttonhole.

American needle sizes are from 8-19 and European needle sizes are from 60-120.

Needles can develop “burrs” on their point which will damage the fabric; burrs can be caused by running the machine too fast.

Leather does not have a grain.

Never backstitch on leather, it will cut the fabric.