Cosmetology Exam Notes

Trichology

The study of hair

5 Structures of the hair root

1. Hair follicle - Contains hair root

2. Hair bulb - Lowest part of hair strand

3. Dermal papilla - Fits into hair bulb

4. Arrector pili muscle - Muscle at base follicle

5. Sebaceous glands - Oil glands in the skin, produces sebum (oil)

Think - FBPAS (FabPass) 

3 Layers of the hair shaft

1. Medulla - Innermost layer, no purpose

2. Cortex - Middle layer, protein core

3. Cuticle - Outer layer, protects hair/prevents damages

Think - MCoCu

3 Phases of hair growth

1. Anagen - Growth phase, 90% life

2. Catagen - Canal shrinks, transition phase

3. Telogen - Resting phase, final stage (phase ends -> anagen begins)

Think - ACT

4 Considerations in hair analysis

1. Texture - Thickness

2. Density - Number of hairs (low, medium, high)

3. Elasticity -  Stretchness

4. Porosity - Absorbness to moisture (low-floats, high-sinks)

Hair PH level

Between 4.5 and 5.5

2 Types of melanin in natural hair colour

1. Eumelanin - Black/brown colour

2. Pheomelanin - Colour ranging, red/ginger to gold/yellow and blonde tones

Think - EU (Earthy, brown, black), PH (Phoenix, red, yellow, ginger)

2 Different types of hair on the body

1. Vellus - Short, fine, “peach fuzz” (Most parts of the body)

2. Terminal - Long, thick (scalp, armpits)

Think - V (Very light, fuzzy) T (Thick, tough)

Why do people colour their hair?

• Cover up grey

• Expression

• Unwanted tones

2 Types of hair colour

1. Nonoxidative - Temporary/semipermanent

2. Oxidative - Demipermanent/permanent

Think - N (Natural) O (Ongoing)

Level system

1 - Darkest hair (Black, brown)

10 - Lightest hair (Blonde)

Base colour

Primary colours (Red, yellow and blue)

Complimentary colour

Secondary colours, opposite from the colour wheel (Green, purple, orange) 

• Colours mixed together = neutralized (brown)

Territory colours

Primary mixed with secondary (Red-violet, red-orange)

Warm vs Cool colours

Warm - Red, orange, yellow

• Bright

• Intense

• Vibrant

Cool - Green, blue, violet

• Ashy

• Matte

• Mousy

Hair names

Red - Red

Orange - Copper, ginger, strawberry blonde

Yellow - Gold, honey, sandy

Green - Cancels red, ashy, matte

Blue - Cancels orange, ashy

Violet - Cancel yellow, grey, platinum, icy, violet

Hydrogen peroxide

Most common use in haircolouring.

4 Common volumes

1. 10 volume (Less lift, enhance natural hair colour)

2. 20 volume (Standard lift, 2 levels of lift, permanent hair colour/grey)

3. 30 volume (Additional lift, 3 levels of lift, permanent hair colour)

4. 40 volume (High lift, 4 levels of lift, max lift)

To go from a 7-neutral to a 10-ash use

30vol

To go from a 5-warm with grey roots to a 5ash brown use

10vol

To go from a 6-warm to a 8-ash use

20vol

Palming the shears

• Maintaining control while combing the hair during a haircut

Before cutting, hair should always be

Wet or damp

One length cut

• Blunt cut, all hair is the same length

• Achieved by a 0 degree elevation

Layered cut

• Holding the hair away from the head