Cosmetology Exam Notes

Cosmo Exam Review

Trichology

• The study of hair is defined as Trichology.

Properties of the Hair and Scalp

5 Structures of the Hair Root

• Think - FBPAS (FabPass)

  1. Hair follicle - Contains hair root
  2. Hair bulb - Lowest part of hair strand
  3. Dermal papilla - Fits into hair bulb
  4. Arrector pili muscle - Muscle at base follicle
  5. Sebaceous glands - Oil glands in the skin, produces sebum (oil)

3 Layers of the Hair Shaft

• Think - MCoCu

  1. Medulla - Innermost layer, no purpose
  2. Cortex - Middle layer, protein core
  3. Cuticle - Outer layer, protects hair/prevents damages

3 Phases of Hair Growth

• Think - ACT

  1. Anagen - Growth phase, 90% life
  2. Catagen - Canal shrinks, transition phase
  3. Telogen - Resting phase, final stage (phase ends -> anagen begins)

4 Considerations in Hair Analysis

1.  Texture - Thickness
2.  Density - Number of hairs (low, medium, high)
3.  Elasticity - Stretchiness
4.  Porosity - Absorbency to moisture (low-floats, high-sinks)

• Hair PH level - Between 4.5 to 5.5

2 Types of Melanin in Natural Hair Colour

• Think - EU (Earthy, brown, black), PH (Phoenix, red, yellow, ginger)

  1. Eumelanin - Black/brown colour
  2. Pheomelanin - Colour ranging, red/ginger to gold/yellow and blonde tones

2 Different Types of Hair on the Body

• Think - V (Light, fuzzy) T (Thick, tough)

  1. Vellus - Short, fine, “peach fuzz” (Most parts of the body)
  2. Terminal - Long, thick (scalp, armpits)

Hair Colouring Terms

Why do people colour their hair?

• Cover up grey
• Expression
• Unwanted tones

2 Types of Hair Colour

• Think - N (Natural) O (Ongoing)

  1. Nonoxidative - Temporary/semipermanent
  2. Oxidative - Demipermanent/permanent

Level System

• 1 - Darkest hair (Black, brown)
• 10 - Lightest hair (Blonde)

Colour Theory

• Base colour - Primary colours (Red, yellow and blue)
• Complimentary colour - Secondary colours, opposite from the colour wheel (Green, purple, orange)
• Colours mixed together = neutralized (brown)
• Tertiary colours - Primary mixed with secondary (Red-violet, red-orange)

Warm vs Cool colours

• Warm - Red, orange, yellow
  • Bright
  • Intense
  • Vibrant
• Cool - Green, blue, violet
  • Ashy
  • Matte
  • Mousy
• Hair names
  • Red - Red
  • Orange - Copper, ginger, strawberry blonde
  • Yellow - Gold, honey, sandy
  • Green - Cancels red, ashy, matte
  • Blue - Cancels orange, ashy
  • Violet - Cancel yellow, grey, platinum, icy, violet

Creating Formulas

Hydrogen Peroxide

• Most common use in haircolouring.

4 Common Volumes

1.  10 volume (Less lift, enhance natural hair colour)
2.  20 volume (Standard lift, 2 levels of lift, permanent hair colour/grey)
3.  30 volume (Additional lift, 3 levels of lift, permanent hair colour)
4.  40 volume (High lift, 4 levels of lift, max lift)

Examples

• To go from a 7-neutral to a 10-ash use: 30vol
• To go from a 5-warm with grey roots to a 5ash brown use: 10vol
• To go from a 6-warm to a 8-ash use: 20vol

Haircutting

Palming the shears

• Maintaining control while combing the hair during a haircut
• Hair should always be
  • Wet or damp before cutting

Types of Hair Cuts

One length cut

• Blunt cut, all hair is the same length
• Achieved by a 0 degree elevation

Layered cut

• Holding the hair away from the head