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What are the key factors influencing coastal processes?

Coastal processes are influenced by waves, tides, and currents. Tides determine wave height and depth, while waves erode, transport, and deposit materials.

How do constructive and destructive waves differ?

Constructive Waves: Low frequency, long wavelength, deposit material, form sandy beaches. Destructive Waves: High frequency, steep gradient, erode material, form shingle beaches.

What are the main processes of marine erosion?

Hydraulic Action: Water forces air into cracks, creating pressure; Abrasion: Sand and pebbles grind against rocks; Attrition: Material collides, breaking into smaller pieces; Corrosion: Chemical reactions dissolve rock.

What is longshore drift?

Sediment transportation along the coast in a zig-zag pattern, caused by swash moving material up the beach at an angle and backwash returning it at 90°.

How are cliffs and wave-cut platforms formed?

1. Erosion at the base creates a wave-cut notch;

2. Undercutting causes the cliff to collapse;

3. Debris is removed by backwash, exposing a wave-cut platform;

4. The cliff retreats over time.

How do headlands and bays form?

Formed on discordant coastlines where alternating hard (resistant) and soft (less resistant) rocks exist. Soft rock erodes to form bays, while hard rock remains as headlands.

Outline the formation process of a cave, arch, stack, and stump.

1. Cave: Waves exploit cracks in a headland through erosion;

2. . Arch: The cave enlarges and breaks through; 3. Stack: The arch collapses, leaving an isolated column; 4. Stump: The stack erodes and collapses into a stump.

How are beaches formed?

Formed in sheltered areas like bays by constructive waves depositing sand or shingle. Strong swash deposits material; weak backwash removes smaller particles.

What are spits, and how do they form?

A spit is a long, narrow stretch of sand or shingle extending into the sea. Formed by longshore drift depositing material where the coastline changes direction or at river mouths.

How do bars and lagoons form?

Bar: When a spit grows across a bay, joining two headlands; Lagoon: A body of water trapped behind a bar.

What is a tombolo?

A depositional landform where a spit connects the mainland to an island, e.g., Chesil Beach in Dorset.

What are the stages of sand dune formation?

1. Embryo Dunes: Sand accumulates against obstacles;

2. Fore Dunes: Stabilized by Marram Grass;

3. Yellow Dunes: Organic material darkens the sand; 4. Grey Dunes: Increased stability and biodiversity; 5. Mature Dunes: Fully stabilized, support climax vegetation.

What are the three types of coral reefs?

Fringing Reefs: Directly attached to the shore; Barrier Reefs: Separated from land by a lagoon; Atolls: Circular reefs with a central lagoon.

What are examples of hard and soft engineering techniques?

Hard Engineering: Sea walls, groynes, rip-rap, and breakwaters; Soft Engineering: Beach nourishment, dune stabilization, and marshland creation.

formation of spit

• A spit is an expanse of sand or shingle that stretches from the shore out to sea

• Spits occur when:

  • There is a change in the shape of the coastline

  • A river mouth stops a spit forming across the estuary

• A spit may or may not have a 'hooked' end, depending on the winds and currents

• Spurn Point, which stretches three and a half miles over the Humber Estuary in northeastern England, is a good example