unit 2: ocean motion quiz review

monsoons

seasonal wind pattern, distinct wet and dry seasons

cyclones

large rotating storms that form over oceans

3 main drivers of ocean currents

1. wind

2. sea level changes

3. density differences

formation of deep ocean currents

form at poles where water becoems more dense and sinks to the bottom

3 factors that determine the size of waves

1. wind speed

2. wind duration (length of time)

3. fetch (area)

3 types of breaking waves

1. plunging breakers: on a moderately steep beach

2. spilling breakers: gently topple over on flat or gentle sloped beaches

3. crash directly into land onto extremely steep beaches

difference in how surface waves and tsunamis are produced

surface waves = wind transferring energy to the surface

tsunamis = caused by geological events & infrequent land (earthquakes, volcanoes, mudslides, iceberg)

spring vs neap tides

spring: earth, moon & sun all aligned

neap: earth and sun aligned, moon to the right or left

mixed vs. diurnal vs semi-diurnal tides

diurnal = one high & low per day

semidiurnal = 2 high & 2 lows of equal tides per day

mixed = 2 highs & 2 lows of unequal height per day

what causes the tides?

moon’s gravity