Sources of Energy at the Coast and Wave Characteristics

Flashcards covering sources of coastal energy, wave characteristics, and related phenomena.

What are the main sources of energy at the coast?

Wind, waves, tides, currents, tidal surges, mass movement, and earthquakes.

What is meant by 'prevailing wind'?

The average direction of the wind in a particular area, or the main direction it is coming from.

What is the typical prevailing wind direction in the UK?

South-west.

What factors can change the direction of a wave?

The shape of the coastline (coastal morphology), the direction of the wind, and the gravitational pull of the sea.

In wave dynamics, what is 'fetch'?

The distance a wave travels.

How does fetch influence the size of a wave?

The greater the fetch, the larger the wave.

What are the highest and lowest points of a wave called?

The highest point is the crest, and the lowest point is the trough.

Why do waves 'topple over' as they approach the coast?

They topple over when the seabed slopes down to a depth of 5-10 meters, disrupting the wave's stability.

What is the name for the distance between two consecutive wave crests or troughs?

Wavelength.