Monica Medina Hair Color Vocab

Mixed Melanin

combination of eumelanin and pheomelanin found in natural haircolor

Contributing Pigment (undertone)

AKA undertone. the varying degrees of warmth thats exposed during a permanent color or lightening process. Generally, when you lighten natural hair color, the darker the natural level, the more intense the contributing pigment.

Level

The unit of measurement which is used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color.

Level system

System that colorists use in order to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.

Base color

Predominant tone of a color.

Law of color

System for understanding color relationships.

Primary colors

Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors.

Secondary colors

Colors created by mixing equal parts of two primary colors

Tertiary colors

Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal parts.

Complementary colors

A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel.

Tone

AKA hue; the balance of color.

Intensity

The strength of a color.

Temporary color

Nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allows only a coating action that may be removed by shampoo.

Semipermanent color

no lift deposit only that does not contain peroxide and formulated to last several shampoos

Demipermanent color

AKA no-lift, deposit-only color, is formulated to deposit but not lighten color.

Haircolor glaze

Common way to describe a color service that adds shine and color to the hair.

Permanent haircolor

Lighten/deposit color at the same time and in a single process as they are more alkaline than no-lift, deposit-only colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer.

Aniline derivatives

Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.

Soap cap

Combination of equal parts of a permanent color mixture and shampoo used the last five minutes and worked through the hair to refresh ends.

Natural haircolors (vegetable haircolor)

obtained the leaves of bark of plants

Metallic haircolors (gradual haircolors)

Haircolors containing metal salts which change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull and metallic appearance.

Hydrogen peroxide developer

oxidizing agent that, when mixed with oxidation haircolor, supplies necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color

Developers

AKA oxidizing agents or catalysts; when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.

Oxidizing agents (catalysts)

substances that release oxygen

Volume

Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide

Lighteners

Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.

Double process application

AKA two-step coloring; a coloring technique requiring two separate procedures which the hair is prelightened before depositing color is applied to the hair.

Toners

semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors

Patch test

AKA a predisposition test; test required by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act for identifying a possible allergy a client may have

Strand test

determines how hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on

Single process

Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application.

Virgin application

First time the hair is colored

Line of demarcation

Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.

Hair lightening

AKA bleaching or decolorizing; chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair.

Prelightening

First step of double-process haircoloring; used to lift/lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner.

On-the-scalp lighteners

Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing lightener with activators.

Activators

AKA boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.

Off-the scalp lighteners

AKA quick lighteners; powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp. of the hair shaft between the scalp and previously colored hair.

New growth

Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair thats been previously colored.

Special effects haircoloring

Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring.

Highlighting

Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.

Reverse highlightening

AKA low lightening; technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color

Cap technique

Lightening technique involving pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic/metal hook and combing them to remove tangles.

Foil technique

Highlighting technique involving coloring selected strands of hair by slicing/weaving out sections, placing them on foil/plastic wrap, applying lightener/permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap

Baliage

Also known as free-form technique; painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair.