Hecol 268 - chapter 10 - french revolution, french directoire (1795-1799), consulat (1799-1804), republique/empire (1804-1815) and english regency (1811-1820)

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26 Terms

1
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menswear vs. womenswear (1790-1815)

men have one phase while women have 4

<p>men have one phase while women have 4</p>
2
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what happened during the french revolution (1789-1794)?

1789 - bankruptcy of the government estates-general are called national assembly declared

  • Money troubles? Print more! Assignat: paper bill issued in france as currency from 1789 - 1796

  • Storming of the bastille 

  • completion of a constitution 

  • women's march on versailles

  • Constitutional monarchy fails 

  • legislative assembly 1791 - 1792

  • Execution of louis the 16th in 1793

  • 1789: poufs are banned

  • 1792: ban on wigs - “ en oreilles de chien” (in dog ears)

  • Reign of terror 1793-1794 lead by Robespiere, standing out with fashionable clothing could lead to arrest or execution, so many people avoided extravagant styles to stay safe.

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what happened during the directoire (1795-1799)?

  • Directoire period (1795-1799) had executive power held by five "directors" and a new constitution.

  • The parliament consisted of 500 representatives and 250 senators, with limited suffrage based on property, replacing the 1793 universal suffrage.

  • To fund expenses, the government relied on war plunder.

  • In 1799, a coup led by General Napoléon Bonaparte ended the Directoire.

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what happened during the Consulante and empire 1799-1814/1815 ?

  • During the Consulate (1799), executive power was held by three consuls, with Napoleon Bonaparte as the first consul.

  • The government was republican but became increasingly conservative, authoritarian, autocratic, and centralized.

  • In 1804, Napoleon crowned himself emperor, famously taking the crown from the pope during the ceremony. His reign lasted until 1814/1815.

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what garments were seen during the revolution and what was the reason for the certain fashion?

  • Supporters of the revolution could adopt elements of dress that symbolizes their political views

  • Red, white, and blue colors

  • The revolutionary cockade (mandatory by 1793)

  • The bonnet rouge or “red cap of liberty”

  • Trousers of the working man replaced the knee breeches of the aristocratic old regime

  • Shoes with laces instead of buckles

  • Les san-culottes, Culottes = french for knee breeches

  • Working class men did not wear san-culottes,They wore trousers or pantaloons

  • They could also wear: a carmagnole (short jacket of dark color, hip length, not well fitted with black fullness), Often with a red waistcoat, Wooden sabots (clogs)

<ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Supporters of the revolution could adopt elements of dress that symbolizes their political views</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Red, white, and blue colors</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">The revolutionary cockade (mandatory by 1793)</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">The bonnet rouge or “red cap of liberty”</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Trousers of the working man replaced the knee breeches of the aristocratic old regime</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Shoes with laces instead of buckles</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Les san-culottes, Culottes = french for knee breeches</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Working class men did not wear san-culottes,They wore trousers or pantaloons</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">They could also wear: a carmagnole (short jacket of dark color, hip length, not well fitted with black fullness), Often with a red waistcoat, Wooden sabots (clogs)</span></p></li></ul><p></p>
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what were the origins of the bonnet rougue?

  • Revolutionaries believed the cap had historical roots in ancient Greece and Rome, where it symbolized liberty.

  • In the Middle Ages, a similar cap marked the end of apprenticeship

7
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true or false, if was hard at times to distinguish the wealthy class and people who had money from the working class because the wealthy class dressed like workers.

true

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how were hairstyles during the revolution?

  • à la Titus haircut (also called à la victime), which mimicked the short hair of individuals heading to the guillotine.

  • This hairstyle became fashionable, with women also adopting short cuts, symbolizing the grim and radical times of the Revolution.

<ul><li><p><em>à la Titus</em> haircut (also called <em>à la victime</em>), which mimicked the short hair of individuals heading to the guillotine. </p></li><li><p>This hairstyle became fashionable, with women also adopting short cuts, symbolizing the grim and radical times of the Revolution.</p></li></ul><p></p>
9
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menswear phase 1 (1790s-1815)

  • focused on body delineation, with English styles dominating but proportions changing.

  • Key features included wide revers, high neck stocks, top hats or bicornes, and turned-over collars.

  • French elements refined the look, with breeches made of doe skin, tight to the body, adding polish to the attire.

<ul><li><p>focused on body delineation, with English styles dominating but proportions changing. </p></li><li><p>Key features included wide revers, high neck stocks, top hats or bicornes, and turned-over collars. </p></li><li><p>French elements refined the look, with breeches made of doe skin, tight to the body, adding polish to the attire.</p></li></ul><p></p>
10
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how was hair like in phase 1 for men?

  • Disheveled

  • long

  • Gray powdered natural colour

  • short

  • Sideburns (no facial hair in 18th century till now)

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who is “Beau” Brummell (george bryan brummell)?

  • DANDY - a man who puts importance into fashion with elegance

  • understated, impeccable, cravat savant (precursor to modern tie)

  • << bathed in milk to have whiter skin>>

12
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how did the coat change for men?

  • Frock(window for their groin) coat becomes the morning coat: has a high folder collar (worn just for riding becomes informal and worn everyday)

  • Revers with “M” notch

13
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lower body garments in men phase 1

  • Knee breeches: full dress, dress, undress

  • Pantaloons: dress, undress, closely fitted (could be knit), might have instep

  • Trousers: dress, undress, fuller and reached the ankle, might have instep, << cossack trousers>

<ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Knee breeches: full dress, dress, undress</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Pantaloons: dress, undress, closely fitted (could be knit), might have instep</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Trousers: dress, undress, fuller and reached the ankle, might have instep, &lt;&lt; cossack trousers&gt;</span></p></li></ul><p></p>
14
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boots for men in phase 1

  • Spencer and coat jockey boots: may be knitted fabrics

  • Jockey boots

  • Hessian boots

  • Greatcoat and hessian boots

15
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Womenswear in Phase 1: 1790–1795

  • Natural to low waistline

  • Bustle

  • Extreme undress (look like you woke up in the morning, indian shawl worn over)

  • Open and close gowns, Jackets and skirts

16
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womenswear in Phase 2: 1794-1799

  • Higher waistline, Voluminous skirt

  • Simpler ‘democratic styles in dress’

  • No panniers (UK (except court) and france): 1794 UK: waist level rises (<< back has a roll so you can anchor the petticoat>>), Padded roll in back, Petticoats still worn

  • 1795: UK and france: Short sleeves

  • 1796: france: Natural hair in curls (circle of david 1798: image), Hair flattened with “huile antique”

  • Undergarments: Transitional stays: shorter, contours breasts, padded roll/tabs

17
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what happened during the late directoire?

  • <<age of terror ends, age of dancing>>

  • 2nd half of the directoire: Co-existing silhouettes

  • Fashion extremists were called Merveilleuses (women)(the marvelous ones) and Incroyables(men)(the incredible ones)

  • Caricatures: << based on reality but pushing it>>

  • Fashion plates (show more legs for women)

  • <<Fabrics for the elite are cotton, instead of linen>>

  • ?? - normative or atypical?

  • “Robe trousse” (lifted dress)

  • A return to freedom of the press?

  • More delineation, but men are lineation

18
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how was womenswear(merveilleuses) in the late directoire (second-half, 1797-1799)?

  • simple and natural aesthetic

  • sheerest fabrics, deep necklines that reached the waist, Hair in shaggy, unkempt looks.

  • Women wore very little underwear and no corsets

  • columnal skirts replacing voluminous petticoats.

  • little or no sleeves

<ul><li><p>simple and natural aesthetic</p></li><li><p>sheerest fabrics, deep necklines that reached the waist, Hair in shaggy, unkempt looks. </p></li><li><p>Women wore very little underwear and no corsets</p></li><li><p>columnal skirts replacing voluminous petticoats. </p></li><li><p>little or no sleeves</p></li></ul><p></p>
19
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how was menswear (incroyables) during the late directoire?

  • excessively tight breeches

  • cravats or collars that covered much of the chin

  • shaggy unkept hair (“en oreille de chien”)

  • woolen English-style coat

  • jockey boots with pointed toes

  • walking stick

20
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how was womenswear in phase 3?

  • High waistline

  • Lower body delineation

  • Frenetic dancing “the age of nudity”, a “new” aristocracy

  • Supremacy of styles based on the ancient greeks

  • The “natural body”, Buttocks - new erogenous zone (<< not wearing voluminous petticoat so people can see the shape of the buttocks>>)

  • the chemise dress continues to be important

  • trying to show the leg in the cloth

  • drawers, pantalettes, chemise and corset

<ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">High waistline</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Lower body delineation</span></p></li></ul><ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Frenetic dancing “the age of nudity”, a “new” aristocracy</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Supremacy of styles based on the ancient greeks</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">The “natural body”, Buttocks - new erogenous zone (&lt;&lt; not wearing voluminous petticoat so people can see the shape of the buttocks&gt;&gt;)</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">the chemise dress continues to be important</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif"> trying to show the leg in the cloth</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">drawers, pantalettes, chemise and corset</span></p></li></ul><p></p>
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what did napolean do during his reign?

  • puts a stop to extreme dress behaviours which he considers immoral

  • Attempts to recreate the elegance of court to stimulate the economy and gain credibility (pushes silk instead of wool)

  • in 10 years, he instituted legal and educational reforms, reorganized the government, making it more efficient, competent, and honest

<ul><li><p>puts a stop to extreme dress behaviours which he considers immoral</p></li><li><p>Attempts to recreate the elegance of court to stimulate the economy and gain credibility (pushes silk instead of wool)</p></li><li><p>in 10 years, he instituted legal and educational reforms, reorganized the government, making it more efficient, competent, and honest</p></li></ul><p></p>
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what kind of silhouettte for silk gowns during the consult and empire?

  • “A” line silhouette for silk gowns

<ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">“A” line silhouette for silk gowns</span></p></li></ul><p></p>
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what are the importance of indian shawls during the consult and empire?

  • Napoleon bans the kashmir shawls, but his wife josephine will smuggle like 60 of them

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what mechanization does the kashmir shawls lead to?

  • because of josephine wanting the shawls, napolean encourages the mechanization of making of them without importing it from anywhere else

  • The Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Charles Jacquard.

  • It used a binary system with punch cards to control the pattern, making it an early precursor to computer programming and technology.

25
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garments and accessories in phase 3

  • A variety of sleeve and neckline styles could be seen: Short puffed sleeves most popular, Marie sleeve, Combined: short over long

  • Spencer jacket (men and women) (women is short)

  • Accessories of note: Reticule (<ancestor of handbag>), Cocakde fan, Bonnets, Slipper shoes with heel, “En cothurne” (pointed toes shoes)

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how was phase 4 in womenswear?

  • Decorative hem treatments 

  • Pelisse becomes coat dress

  • High waistline

  • Moderate shorter skirt volume at hem

<ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Decorative hem treatments&nbsp;</span></p></li></ul><ul><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Pelisse becomes coat dress</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">High waistline</span></p></li><li><p><span style="font-family: &quot;Times New Roman&quot;, serif">Moderate shorter skirt volume at hem</span></p></li></ul><p></p>