Coastal Processes and Landforms - Vocabulary Flashcards

A vocabulary-focused set of flashcards covering coastal processes, landforms, wave dynamics, sediment types, coastal management, and protection methods drawn from the provided lecture notes.

Cliffs

Steep, near-vertical rock faces along a coastline formed by wave undercutting.

Wave-cut platform

Flat bedrock or rock surface at the base of a cliff formed by coastal erosion.

Sea cave

A hollow formed in a cliff by erosion from waves.

Arch

A natural arch formed when a sea cave is enlarged until it breaks through to the other side.

Stack

A vertical rock column standing offshore after a headland or arch collapses.

Stump

A small, eroded remnant of a stack left offshore after further collapse.

Headland

A projecting, resistant rock away from which bays are eroded.

Bay

A wide, curved indentation in the coastline formed by differential erosion.

Swash

The watery rush of water up the beach after a wave breaks, carrying sediment.

Backwash

Water returning to the sea downslope, often removing sediment from the beach.

Longshore current

A current that moves parallel to the coast, driven by waves arriving at an angle.

Beach drift

Sediment movement along the beach caused by swash in a zigzag pattern.

Longshore drift

The combined action of longshore currents and beach drift transporting sediment along the coast.

Spit

A narrow ridge of sand or pebbles extending from land into the sea, formed by longshore drift.

Tombolo

A spit that connects the mainland to an offshore island.

Beach

A depositional landform consisting of sand, gravel, or shells along the shore.

Sediment

Materials such as sand, gravel, and shells transported and deposited by coastal processes.

Clay

Sediment size less than 0.0039 mm; very fine material found in beaches.

Silt

Sediment size 0.0039 mm to 0.0625 mm; fine, powdery material.

Fine sand

Sediment size 0.125 mm to 0.25 mm; small sand particles.

Medium sand

Sediment size 0.25 mm to 0.5 mm.

Coarse sand

Sediment size 0.5 mm to 1 mm.

Very coarse sand

Sediment size 1 mm to 2 mm.

Pebble

Sediment size 2 mm to 64 mm.

Cobble

Sediment size 64 mm to 256 mm.

Boulder

Sediment larger than 256 mm.

Wave crest

The highest point of a wave.

Wave trough

The lowest point of a wave.

Wave height

Vertical distance between the crest and the trough.

Wavelength

Horizontal distance from crest to crest (or trough to trough).

Wave steepness

Ratio of wave height to wavelength.

Wave frequency

Number of crests or troughs passing a point per unit time.

Wave period

Time for a wave to travel one full wavelength.

Wind speed

Speed of the wind generating waves; higher wind increases wave energy.

Duration of wind

Length of time the wind blows to generate waves.

Fetch

Distance wind has travelled over water to form waves; larger fetch = more energy.

Constructive waves

Waves with long wavelength, low height, and less energy that deposit sediment on the coast.

Destructive waves

Waves with short wavelength, high height, and more energy that erode and remove sediment.

Solution

Chemical weathering where soluble minerals in rocks dissolve in water.

Abrasion

Waves carrying particles that grind against rock, causing wear.

Attrition

Rock particles rubbing together, breaking into smaller, rounder pieces.

Hydraulic action

Waves compress air in rock joints, causing rock to crack and break apart.

Wave refraction

Change in wave direction and energy distribution as waves enter shallower water near coasts.

Cave

A sea cave formed by erosion within a cliff.

Arch

A curved rock formation created when a cave erodes through to the other side.

Beach nourishment

Soft engineering: adding sand to a depleted beach from external sources.

Mangrove

Coastal vegetation with aerial roots that traps sediments and reduces erosion.

Coral reef

Marine structures of corals that absorb wave energy and protect shorelines.

Artificial reef

Man-made structures (e.g., steel or concrete) placed on the sea floor to foster reef growth.

Seawall

A wall built parallel to the coast to absorb or reflect wave energy and protect land.

Gabion

Wire cages filled with rocks used to dissipate wave energy along the coast.

Breakwater

A structure (often offshore) that breaks waves to create a calm zone behind it.

Groyne

A wall built at right angles to the shore to trap sand and reduce longshore drift.

Tetrapod

Four-pronged concrete structure that dissipates wave energy and allows water to pass around.

Marine reserve

Protected coastal area where human activities are limited to conserve ecosystems.

Fish banks

Spawning or feeding areas for fish that are protected to support populations.

Retreat

Relocation of buildings and infrastructure away from hazard-prone coastal zones.

Avoidance

Regulating development to prevent construction in high-risk coastal areas.

Defence

Coastal protection measures such as nourishment or structures to absorb energy.

Goat Island Marine Reserve

New Zealand marine reserve example where fishing is restricted to protect fish populations.

Wakatobi National Park

Indonesian marine protected area example used to protect ecosystems.

Beach dune vegetation

Plants stabilizing dunes to reduce erosion and trap sand.

Sands dunes stabilization with grasses

Use of grasses and mats to anchor and stabilize dunes as a protective measure.