art+Fashion questions

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10 Terms

1
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Several avant-garde movements sought to redefine fashion and, in the process, create a new society. Compare the fashion aims and ideologies of the Futurists with the Russian Constructivists/Productivists.

Reading: Futurist Fashion - Emily Braun

Both Futurists and Russian Constructivists/Productivists were avant-garde movements that sought to redefine fashion, but they differed significantly in their aims and ideologies, with the former focusing on individual expression through technology and dynamism, while the latter emphasized functionality and social purpose in a collective society.

Russian:

inspired by the revolutionary ideologies of the Bolshevik Revolution. They sought to create clothing that reflected the needs of the new socialist society.

2
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Some avant-garde movements, such as Simultaneism (Sonia Delaunay) and Surrealism, openly embraced fashion. Describe the similarities and contrasts between these two pro-fashion movements and why they engaged with clothing and the fashion industry.

 

Readings: week 2 reading 2 (Delaunay Design - Sherry Buckberrough), class 2 reading 1 (fashion and Surrealism -Blum)

Points + Relevance:

Sim

representation of different perspectives, times, or moments in a single artwork, creating a sense of simultaneous experience. It emerged particularly in the early 20th century, with roots in movements like Cubism and Futurism.

Artists exploring simultaneism sought to depict a variety of viewpoints or actions happening at once within a single frame, instead of focusing on one static viewpoint or moment.

  • Sonia’s work, particularly in the use of vibrant colors and dynamic patterns, aimed to capture the interplay of light, movement, and color, reflecting the principles of simultaneism.

F+S

  • Surrealism is

  • Designers used surreal themes to create wearable art that questioned traditional aesthetics.

  • Strong connection between contemporary fashion and surrealism dating back to 1905. Fashion accessories (hats, gloves, shoes, jewels) were significant for surrealists akin to their role for Dadaists symbolizing sexual and fetish tic qualities.

Examples:

F+S

Tzara's essay illustrated with schiaparelli's hats emphasized the sexual symbolism of fashion particularly hats mimicking men's styles.

My Analysis:

Theorists names +views:

F+S

Man Ray- Photographer who the fashion scene including works of designers Paul Poiret and Elsa Schiaparelli.

Paul Poiret- 1905 evening gown featured in Ma Rays photography which became iconic surrealist contexts.

Elsa Schiaparelli- collaborated with artist like Salvado Dali, Blending fashion with surrealist themes. Notable for her gloves, hats and jewellery used as symbols in surrealist narratives.

Concepts + terms:

Social/ historical context:

Issues raised + Implications:

3
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For Yuniya Kawamura, fashion both exemplifies and undermines social differentiation. Discuss the roles fashion and consumption play in people’s attempts to live within that contradictory pull of creating individuality yet fostering integration into society.

Reading: Class 3 reading 1 (Adoption and Consumption of Fashion by Yuniya Kawamura),

Points + Relevance: 

Public consumption signifies norms shed within society leading to collective agreement on what is fashionable.

Examples:

My Analysis:

Theorists names +views:

Simmel's analysis highlight the duality of individual expression and social responsibility in fashion choices. Veblem introduced the notion of conspicuous consumption where acquiring goods serves as a competition for status.

Holbrook and Dixon define fashion as a public consumption aimed at projecting an image.

Concepts + terms:

Fashion-ology studies the social context of both production and consumption.

Social/ historical context:

Modern model of consumption originated in pre revolutionary court life, exemlified by Louis XIV of France the 'consumer King' reflecting political power rather than personal pleasure. Courtly consumption established france as the center of aesthetic culture, emphasizing material beauty's role in power dynamics.

Issues raised + Implications:

4
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What is glamour and how does it relate to fashion?

 

Readings: class 3 reading 2 (Fashion by Valerie Steele)

Social/ historical context:

The word 'glamour' has Scottish origins meaning magic or enchantment, which has evolved to represent a deceptive beauty or charm. Historically aristocracy is what represented glamour but as power dynamics shifted in the 19th century, glamour became manufactured by commercial culture mainly through media and publicity.

Points + Relevance:

Potent combination of sex appeal, luxury, celebrity and wealth often associated with fashion and Hollywood. Involves essence and persona of the individual particularly women.

Examples:

Celebrities wearing designer clothes at award shows.

My Analysis:

A key element of glamour is that it cannot exist without an audience. This is incredibly ironic because it is built on the concept of exclusion but cannot exist without the eyes of those who are intended to be excluded which is essentially a form of participation.

Theorists names +views: Key figures are designers like Valentino, Gianni Versace and Mugler exemplifying different expressions of glamour from classic elegance from Valentino to hypersexualized extravagant designs by Versace.

Concepts + terms:

Parasitic influence

Issues raised + Implications:

Influence of Drag culture show performance element + societal norms of femininity are challenged and celebrated.

5
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The fashion show, as Caroline Evans outlines, has greatly influenced the development of the modern fashion industry. What are its major features and purposes, and how have these changed over the course of the past century?

Readings: Class 4, Reading 1 (Caroline Evans, “The Enchanted Spectacle

Points + Relevance:

Fashion shows act as a form of theatrical marketing that entwines art, theatre, and consumerism.

The cultivation of an image and a narrative around fashion items is central to their purpose.

From entertainment to artistic direction.

From elite consumers to accessible digital platforms.

Identity politics + contemporary issues.

Blurred lines between art and Commerce.

Examples:

My Analysis:

Theorists names +views:

Concepts + terms:

Social/ historical context:

From the early 20th century, with pioneers like Lady Duff Gordon, who introduced mannequin parades as entertainment, to today’s structured presentations.

Fashion shows served as a platform connecting the past and present ideals of gender and identity in fashion.

Issues raised + Implications:

6
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Relate Vanessa Beecroft’s performances to the history of the fashion show. Are her performances critical of or complicit with fashion’s attitude towards women? Explain both positions and why you would choose one over the other.

Readings: Class 5(Elly Collins)

Points + Relevance:

Her work often blurs the boundaries between art, performance, and fashion, while invoking critical discussions about women's roles in the fashion industry.

Critical-

Beecroft’s insistence on models behaving 'like images' can be interpreted as a critique of the fashion industry’s objectification of women. By presenting women in a stark, controlled environment, her performances comment on how fashion often reduces women to mere visuals, devoid of agency or voice.

Complicit-

With Beecroft using a male manager to oversee performances, it raises questions about power dynamics, similar to the hierarchical structures often present in the fashion industry, thereby suggesting complicity in existing patriarchal frameworks.

he behind-the-scenes dynamics and the ethical issues raised about the treatment of the models in her performances highlight surveillance and control.

Examples:

An example of Vanessa Beecroft's critical engagement with fashion's attitude towards women is her performance piece VB46, which requires 20–30 nude models fitting a narrow physical description, such as being tall and skinny. In this performance, the models are instructed to maintain a stoic presence and not interact with one another, creating a stark and unnerving atmosphere reminiscent of a controlled fashion show, yet devoid of the glamour typically associated with it.

My Analysis:

Ultimately, the discomfort her art evokes serves as a catalyst for dialogue surrounding gender and commodification in contemporary art and fashion.

Theorists names +views:

Concepts + terms:

Social/ historical context:

Issues raised + Implications:

7
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For Lee Barron, the term "habitus" is central to the operation of fashion. How do models in general, and Elizabeth Hurley in particular, exemplify habitus? What implications does this have for fashion and its consumption?

Readings: Class 5

Points + Relevance:

Models

Models serve as embodiments of habitus since their styles are not only influenced by personal choice but also by cultural norms, expectations, and professional roles within the fashion industry. Their work involves negotiating personal identity with the broader context of fashion trends, public perception, and market demands.

Elizabeth Hurley

exemplifies habitus through her blending of celebrity status with fashion, using her image and body to establish a distinct personal brand. She reflects cultural aspirations in her choices, mirroring the glamour and lifestyle often idolized by society.

Implications

Fashion as Self-Expression, Consumer Identity, Market Dynamics

Examples:

Hurley's brand, "Elizabeth Hurley Beach," not only represents her aesthetic but also promotes aspirational identities associated with fitness, glamour, and self-care. This demonstrates how models can influence consumers' identity creations through habitus.

My Analysis:

Theorists names +views:

Concepts + terms:

Habitus encompasses the social and cultural practices that shape individual identity and style choices. It reflects the way personal experiences and societal influences guide one's taste and aesthetic.

Social/ historical context:

Issues raised + Implications:

8
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Can fashion be "ungendered"? Why or why not? Hazel Clark and Leena-Maija Rossi foreground a pivotal year in which several attempts were made to produce genderless clothing. Discuss these attempts and the forces that work for and against the creation of non-binary fashion.

Readings:Hazel Clark and leena-Maija Rossi, "Clothes (Un)Make the (Wo)Man – Ungendering Fashion (2015)?"

Points + Relevance:

there have been several attempts to create genderless clothing, particularly around pivotal moments such as seen in 2015. Fashion designers and brands like Selfridges and Zara have launched initiatives promoting gender-neutral apparel, reflecting changing attitudes toward gender identity.

  • Designers like Alessandro Michele in Gucci and Grace Wales Bonner have integrated traditionally feminine elements into men's fashion, pushing boundaries toward non-binary fashion.

  • Against

  • Commercial pressures to market clothing specifically to male or female demographics, often based on consumer habits and expectations.

  • Resistance from traditional societal norms that view gender categories as binary and fixed, which can inhibit acceptance of gender fluidity in fashion.

Examples:

My Analysis:

Theorists names +views:

Concepts + terms:

Social/ historical context:

Issues raised + Implications:

9
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Ideals of gender change over time and social context. Discuss how particular examples of clothing, attitudes and identities -- such as the stiletto heel or drag – influenced and represent changing cultural assumptions about gender.

Readings: Class reading 3 Lee Wright, “Objectifying Gender: The Stiletto Heel”

Points + Relevance:

  • The stiletto heel represents a significant shift in female identity and sexuality, particularly from the 1950s onward.

  • Initially associated with femininity and traditional gender roles, stilettos became a symbol of empowerment and rebellion against conservative norms.

  • Feminist critiques of the stiletto acknowledge its dual nature: while it can perpetuate stereotypes of femininity, it also embodies a transformation toward a new female identity that resists conformity.

  • Drag performances challenge traditional gender norms by subverting and exaggerating femininity and masculinity.

Examples:

My Analysis:

Theorists names +views:

Concepts + terms:

Social/ historical context:

Issues raised + Implications:

10
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