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How does the number of harnesses in a loom relate to the floats in a fabric?
-more number of harnesses can make more SETS OF WARPS which = a more complex fabric
- determines the weave or interlacing pattern
every warp in a loom should correspond to a __
heddle
what refers to the space between each of the heddles on a loom?
dents
why are dents important?
determines the amount of ends per square inch
disadvantage of the projectile loom
it has to carry the thread all the way over
how many times faster is projectile and rapier loom than shuttle loom
2-4 x
how many times faster is airjet loom than shuttle loom?
1.5 x
how many times faster is water-jet loom than shuttle loom?
2-3 x
the ridges made in the diagonal of a twill weave
wales
anytime yarn goes over 2 or more threads; can seen anywhere BUT plain weaves
floats
very fast, fabrics are less streaky and more compact, less noisy, and takes up less space
advantages of waterjet loom
limitations on fabric width and very expensive
disadvantages of waterjet loom
angles of weaving patterns
regular 45
steep
reclined
the conventional loom makes the ___ of selvage on both sides
same kind
shuttle-less looms have __selvages because the filling yarn is cut and the selvage yarn looks like fringe
different
the lengthwise self edge of a fabric
selvage
Problems associated with a fabric that has been woven off grain
causes reruns or repeating finishing steps and lowers fabric quality
products do not drape properly or printed designs are not straight
process of forming fabric from starting material (many different methods)
fabrication
the most simple/basic weave
plain weave
the most widely used method to make fabric
weaving
a woven fabric is interlaced at ___angles
right
woven fabrics have __ elasticity
low
when a Yarn changes position from one side to another
interlacing
In what loom are changes being done to reduce the length of the fringe along the selvages and selvage waste by 50%?
rapier loom
disadvantages of the air-jet loom?
only suitable for any filling yarn that is not too bulky or heavy; good warp preparation is required; very high energy consumption
predominant loom for weaving sheeting and denim
air-jet loom
disadvantage of water-jet loom?
can use use only hydrophobic fibers (synthetic fibers)
types of woven fabrics
plain
twill
satin
complex
types of plain weaves
rib and basket
types of twill weaves
right and left hand
even sided and uneven sided
warp faced and weft faced
do warp or weft faced twill weave fabrics have a stronger facing front?
warp faced
example of twill weave warp faced fabrics
denim and drill
types of satin weaves
satin
sateen
Satin is made with ___ flows
warp
Sateen is made with ___ flows
weft
types of complex weaves
Jacquard, dobby, double cloth, double weave, pique, momie, leno, pile, slack tension, tapestry
fabrics in which the design is produced at the same time that fabric is woven
fancy/complex weaves
specialized looms required to produce this complex weave
jacquard
which weave is made with a doup attachment?
leno
only complex yarn woven as leno
chenille
this complex weave has 25 different warp yarn arrangements
dobby weave fabric
this complex weave contains GEOMETRIC forms
dobby weave
2 methods to create the dobby weave
punch cards or computer
waffle cloth and honey comb weave are examples of
dobby weaves
additional wrap or filling yarns of different colors or types are woven into the fabric to create a pattern
extra yarn weave
examples of extra yarn complex weaves
dotted swiss
eyelash
complex weave that uses stuffer yarns and has ridges, wales, or cords held up by floats on back
pique weave
bedford cord is an example of what type of complex weave
pique weave
wale refers to ___ NOT diagonals
ridges
complex weave that presents no wale or other distinct weave effect but gives the fabric the appearance of being sprinkled with small spots or seeds
momie weave
complex weave known as crepe or granite weave
momie weave
complex weave with irregular interlacing patterns and uses the dobby attachment
momie weave
sand crepe is an example of what complex weave
momie weave
what person from france made the jacquard weave
joseph jacquard
which comlex weave uses punch cards and computers?
jacquard
type of jacquard weave that has a contrast of more than 1 color?
damask
what complex weave changed the computer industry because computer programming was invented from the use of punch cards?
jacquard weave
complex weave with large figured DESIGNS/PATTERNS that require more than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one design?
jacquard
damask, brocade, tapestry examples of what weave
jacquard
complex fabric woven with 3,4, or 5 different sets of yarns (extra warp or weft); 5 SETS OF YARNS
double cloth weaves
can double cloth or double weave be separated?
double CLOTH
weave from 2 fabrics woven together with 5th binder yarn
double cloth weave
complex weave with 4 sets of yarns; 2 cloths are interwoven (2 warp and 2 weft)
double weave
pocket cloth and matelasse are examples of what complex weave
double weave
2 warps twisted together in figure 8 shape to lock filling yarns in place
leno (open) weave
a weave in which the warp yarns do not lie parallel to each other
leno weave
which type of complex weave is made with a doup attachment?
leno weave
example of a leno weave
marquisette
mosquito nets and fruit packaging are example of what type of weave
leno weave
3D woven fabric with additional warp or filling that creates pile
pile weaves
type of fabric that receives the most surface abrasion
pile
high count pile fabrics produce
DURABLE carpets, upholstery, bedspreads
stuffed toys, wigs, paint rollers, bed pads use which type of complex fabric?
pile
examples of weft piles
corduroy and velveteen
examples of warp piles
velvet and terry cloth
weft pile
have an extra weft
warp pile
have an extra warp (3rd pile yarn is set in warp)
towels and robes are made from what type of pile?
warp pile
the yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other beam are held at slack tension
slack tension weave
warp or weft is in the bands to give puckered area stripes in slack tension weaves?
warp
slack tension warp yarns are longer in the ___ portion
unraveled
seersucker example of
slack tension weave
a hand produced, filling faced, plain weave complex fabric?
tapestry weave
___ create pattern with color or texture in tapestry weave
discontinuous filling yarns
woven ribbons, elastics, zipper tapes, trims, harnesses, and WEBBINGS are used in this complex weave
narrow fancy weave
2 threads woven together at the same time using a double rapier makes what fabric
velvet
which weave never uses chenile yarns?
pile
which weave type is used to make chenille yarn?
leno
loom to make dobby weave
dobby loom
loom to make extra yarn weaves
shuttle loom
bedford CORD used to make
bedspreads, upholstery, window treatments, slacks, and uniforms
loom to make jacquard weave
old method: jacquard loom
new method: electronic air-jet loom
loom to make momie weave
loom with a dobby attachment or electronic control
loom to make leno weave
plain or dobby loom
double cloth used in what type of end products?
coats, interiors (drapery)
a high, thick __ adds warmth as either the shell of a lining of coats, jackets, gloves, and boots
pile
___ are made in plain colors, stripes, and prints and is used in curtains, children wear and summer suiting
seersucker
woven elastics are what type of fabrics
narrow fabrics
ribs and half baskets are ___ fabrics
unbalanced
characteristics of warp yarns
stronger, more uniform, less stretch, higher density