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surfactants
surface and interfacial phenomena
formation of aggregates
wetting agents; enables the optimum spread of an active substance on the entire surface of a plant
can remove oil, fat and grease
dispersion of pollutants from oil and gas activities into water and enhance their biodegradation
Surfactants
main functions are:
skin cleansing (by removing the lipid surface layer)
modification of the skin surface
enhancement of the penetration of active ingredients
often the ‘heart’ of a cosmetic formulation
surfactant
a substance that has the property of adsorbing onto the surfaces or interfaces of a given system, and remarkably alter the surface or interfacial free energies of those surfaces or interfaces
interface
a boundary between any two immiscible phases
surface
indicates an interface, represented by a gas (or usually air) in contact with a liquid or a solid
interfacial free energy
minimum amount of work required to create a unit area of the interface or to expand it by a unit area
interfacial free energy per unit area
what we measure when we determine the interfacial tension between two phases and is a measure of the difference in nature of two dissimilar phases
surfactant
amphiphilic substances; have groups with antagonistic characteristics in their molecular structure
reduce the amount of work required to expand them and mitigate the application of a cosmetic
alkyl aryl sulphonates
sulphated alcohols
At the end of World War II, _____ were mainly used for cleaning, while ______ were preferably used in shampoo
propylene tetramer (TP)
benzene
After World War II, an adduct of ______ and ______ became a predominant feedstock for the surfactant industry. Recognized as pollutants due to their persistent foam in rivers and lakes
Non-polar groups
mainly derived from petrochemical or oleochemical raw materials
Petrochemical raw materials
materials derived exclusively from petroleum
oleochemicals
derived from vegetable or animal sources
greater market acceptance than those of petrochemical origin
product specification
set of characteristics that meet legal, quality, toxicological, environmental, safety, sensory, market and, above all, functional requirements
Ethoxylation
This reaction is regarded as a polyaddition, but it is a nucleophilic substitution, where the weak nucleophilic agent has increased its nucleophilicity by a previous reaction with a strong base
introduces a polyether moiety into the molecule, which is responsible for its solubility in water
used to create non-ionic surfactants
Propoxylation
same process as ethoxylation but with the use of propylene oxide as an electrophile
Alkoxylation
generic name of ethoxylation and alkoxylation
Hydrogenation
Unsaturated fatty chains are prone to undergo oxidation and form oxides and peroxides, which cause rancidity and yellowing.
Sulphation
A reaction that introduces a sulphate group into an organic molecule, making the surfactant anionic.
Sulphonation
A reaction that introduces a sulphonate group into an organic molecule, making the surfactant anionic
Esterification
Functionalization reaction of the molecule, making it an ester of variable solubility in water
used to make non-ionic biodegradable surfactants, normally used as emulsifiers and emollients
Functionalization reaction of the molecule. The amide bond is strong and resists better to hydrolysis when compared to ester bonds
used to make non-ionic surfactants
Quaternization
Reaction of a tertiary amine with sodium monochloroacetate, methyl chloride
Clarification
Chemical process that employs oxidizing agents to ‘decompose’ coloured by-products
used to improve the colour of surfactants
Deodorization
Removal of volatile products that cause odour or other normally unwanted effects on products (dioxane, for example).
Filtration
Removal of dust or any other particulate that may affect product appearance.
Distillation
Physical separation of products of different boiling points by means of temperature and/or pressure gradients
helps to improve product odour and toxicity
Blending
Operation to incorporate additives to surfactants or to blend surfactants to form dispersed, emulsified concentrates or simple solutions
makes it possible to handle viscous materials and enhances productivity
Drying
this process using spray driers or vacuum to allow for preparation of powder surfactants
Pelletizing
Obtaining products in the form of pellets, which facilitate handling and fractionation by cosmetic producers
Preservation
Addition of preservatives to avoid microbial contamination of surfactants and finished products
placed in surfactants with more than 30% water
based on structure
most common way to classify surfactants
gemini surfactants
Surfactants containing two or more non-polar chains and two or more polar heads
Anionic surfactants
possess a negative charge in their hydrophilic portion when dissolved in water