Ch 6 Milady Vocab

Açaí Berry

berry rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, and E; protects, replenishes; helps heal damaged skin

Alcohol

antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents; specially denatured (SD) alcohol is a mixture of ethanol with a denaturing agent.

Algae

seaweed derivatives used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants; also nourishes the skin with vitamins and minerals

Alginate

often seaweed based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and dry to form a rubberize texture.

Allantoin

derived from the root of the comfrey plant, helps to soften and protect while actively soothing skin

Aloe vera

popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and humectant with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties

Alpha Hydroxy Acid

abbreviated AHAS; derived naturally from various plant sources and from milk; used for improving signs of aging, dry skin, and an uneven skin tone

Alpha lipoic acid

a natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

Ampoule

small, sealed vial containing a single application of highly concentrated serum of extracts in a water or oil base

Anhydrous

describes products that do not contain any water

Argan Oil

derived from the kernels of the argan tree; very light botanical oil used as an emollient

aromatherapy

therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service

astringent

also called toners, these liquids help remove excess oil on the skin

anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

azulene

derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

benzoyl peroxide

ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used to treat inflamed acne lesions

beta-glucans

ingredients used in anti-aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

beta hydroxy acids

exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acids, dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

Botanicals

ingredients derived from plants

calendula

anti-inflammatory plant extract

carbomers

ingredients used to thicken creams

Certified colors

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C

Chamomile

Plant extract with calming and soothing properties

Chelating agents

A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

Chemical exfoliants

Products with chemical agents used to dissolve dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”

Clay masks

Oil-absorbing purifying masks made with a clay base

Cleanser

Soap or detergent that cleans skin

Coconut oil

Derived from coconut, one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

Coenzyme Q10

Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells

Color agents

Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color

Cosmeceutical

Term used to describe high-quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skins health and appearance

Cosmetics

articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance

Cruelty-free

Term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals

Delivery systems

Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

Detergents

Type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products

Echinacea

Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system

Emollients

Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss

Emulsifiers

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniforms and fairly stable blend

Enzymes

Provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins writhing dead a skin cells on the surface

Essential oils

Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche

Exfoliants

mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin

Fatty acids

Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats

Fatty alcohols

Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

Fatty esters

Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols

Exfoliation

Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin

Fragrance-free

This term indicates that no additional ingredients have been added to a products to specifically provide a fragrance; however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent

Fragrances

Give products their scent

Fresheners

Toners, skin-refreshing lotions, and liquids applied after cleansing to soothe and hydrate

Functional ingredients

Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel

Glycerin

Formed by a decomposition of oils or fats

Glycoproteins

Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing

Gommage

Enzyme exfoliating masks that are rubbed off the skin

Green tea

Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, skin brightening, and a stimulant

Healing botanicals

Substances from plants such as chamomile, aloe, plant stem cells, and botanical oils that help to heal the skin

Hemp seed oil

Derived from help seeds, very light botanical oils used as an emollient

Herbs

Hundreds of herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize

Humectants

Ingredients that attract water; humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dehydration

Hydrophilic agents/ hydrators

Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface

Hypoallergenic

Refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions

Jojoba

Oil widely used in cosmetics, extracted from the bean-like seeds of a desert shrub; used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer

Keratolytic

Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells

kojic acid

Skin-brightening agent

Lakes

Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

Lanolin

Emollient with moisturizing properties

Lavender

Anti allergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing

Licorice

anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation

Lipids

fats or fat-like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin

Liposomes

closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release

Liquid paraffin

emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

Lubricant

coats the skin and reduces friction

Mask

also known as pack or masque; concentrated treatment product often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin

Mechanical exfoliation

products used as a physical method of polishing dead cells off the skin

Methylparaben

one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic

Mineral oil

lubricant derived from petroleum

Modelage mask

also known as thermal masks or thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient

Moisturizers

products formulated to add moisture to the skin

Natural, all natural

terms often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources.

Noncertified colors

colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments

Oil soluble

compatible with oil

Olfactory nerve

"smell" receptors in the nose that communicate with parts of the brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories

Organic

term used to describe natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals

Palm oil

derived from the oil palm tree; one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

Papaya

natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels

Parabens

one of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against diverse organisms

Paraffin wax masks

mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin

Peptides

chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen; improve skin's firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides

Performance ingredients

ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin

Petrolatum

emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

PH-adjusters

acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products

Phthalates

plasticizers used in skin care formulas to moisturize and soften skin, and to dissolve or blend ingredients

Plant stem cells

derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; health and anti-aging benefits

Polyglucans

ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism; hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin

Polymers

chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controlled rate

Preservatives

chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; they kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling

Quaternium 15

all-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. Probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies

Retinol

natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells

Salicylic acid

beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

Seaweed

seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness

Serums

concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

Sodium bicarbonate

baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and pH adjuster

Squalene

derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient