2.3 - Cultural impacts on design

P2 - Design + making

socio economic influences

the social and economic factors that help to shape lifestyle, attitudes, and expectations

how socio economic influences affect design

• what people wear is affected by lifestyle, outlook and expectations

• designers need to understand changing trends to design successfully for markets

• buy in information from trend forecasters to ensure ideas fit with consumer tastes

1900-1910

la belle époque

• the age of opulence

1900-10 - socio economic influences - classes

• upper classes displayed wealth with extravagant lifestyle

• strong class divide

• strict code of etiquette governed activities

1900-10 - trends - classes

upper/middle classes

• luxurious extravagant dresses - several outfits a day

• men were clothes conscious - little change from victorian times

lower classes

• shabbily dressed - wore what they could get

• children often had no shoes

1900-10 - socio economic influences - technology and women

• greyer electricity provision and motor transport

• limited success in emancipation of women

• women not expected to work - more were educated and being active in sport

• many supported women’s suffrage

• more liberal attitude spread in artistic and intellectual circles

1900-10 - trends

• children dressed in miniature versions of adult clothing

• tight corsets - to achieve the S bend silhouette

• ornate clothes, delicate fabrics

• long trailing skirts large hats and gloves

• influenced by Paul poiret

1910 - 1920

• fashion conscious era until WW1

• 1914 - outbreak of WW1

1910-20 - socio economic influences

• major social and political change

• class distinction less obvious through clothes

• generation gap widened

• WW1 - major influence on fashion

• cinema became popular entertainment

• post WW1 - rich and fashion conscious indulged in a sophisticated high life

1910-20 - socio economic influences - women

• all classes of women adapted more practical styles

• many women joined armed forces - took on war related work

• men at war - more opportunities created for women

1910-20 - trends

• many Paul poiret styles

• better suited to an active, younger generation - easier fitting clothes

• children - less formal, easier fitting clothes

• mens fashions changed little

• fewer fashions for boys - most were in uniform

• radical changed to silhouette of dresses 1912-14 =1,898 considered smoking

• energetic dances = looser fitting dresses, shorter hemlines

1920 - 1930

• roaring twenties

• tempered by mass unemployment and the general strike

1920-30 - socio economic influences

• looser morals for upper and middle classes - influenced by media

• social changes from WW1 - spread to working classes

• period of mass unemployment

• leisure pursuits grew in popularity

• forge in travel became more popular

• sportswear became more important

1920-30 - socio economic influences - women

• most women expected to return to pre war roles - shortage of men

• many women had to provide for themselves = poorly paid work

• moved away from pre war employment in domestic services - into new Jobs in developing industries e.g. banking

• young women - post war period was liberating

• drive for women’s emancipation grew - 1928 - women over 21 got the vote

1920-30 - trends

• beginning of decade - attempt to recreate romantic styles based on period costumes

• more modern, boyish look became popular - due to faster pace of life

• more youthful silhouette for fashion conscious

• chemise line dress was the main style

• decorative fabrics used - inspired by Egyptian, Chinese and eastern motifs

• mens attitude moves away from formal clothing

• trouser legs became wide - Oxford bags = looser cut with pleats for shaping

1920-30 - trends - women

• more androgynous look - short hair and cloche hats

• shawls, low heeled shoes, silk stockings

• simple shapes - women made their own dresses

• mass produced clothing became more readily available

• well dressed = simple, understated style

• poor = looked shabby, cheap fabrics

• participation in competitive sports = more casual styles, allowed freedom of movement

• female look became softer towards end of decade

1930 - 1940

effects of the great depression

1930-40 - socio economic influences

• the Great Depression lasted through the decade

• little money for new clothes

• styles between classed became more unified than ever

• royalty influenced trends

• wealthy = bought clothes from couture houses

• quality of mass produced garment improved, department stores selling RTW became popular

• simplified versions of original designs could be manufactured and sold cheaply

• economic situation improved during second half - overshadowed by threat of war

1930-40 - socio economic influences - women

• became adept at dressmaking and altering existing clothes

• home knitted items were popular

• radio and cinema celebrities influenced how people dressed

• e.g. Greta garbo, marlene dietrich

1930-40 - trends

• zipper began to replace buttons

• childrens clothes - simpler, easy fitting

• beach pyjamas, cruise wear shorts, bare backed dresses became popular

• young men fashions - more athletic

• clothes became more stylish

• fur trims were popular

• wide shoulders created a military look

1930-40 - trends - women

• lingerie - lighter corsets and suspenders

• fashion conscious women - moved back to hourglass shape of edwardian era

• most women wore basic, practical styles

• dresses - made of silk and different grades of rayon

• skirt lengths - short and practical for daytime

• floor length gowns - reintroduced for evening wear

• Madeleine vionnet popularised the bias cut

1940 - 1950

effects of the Second World War

1940-50 - socio economic influences

• WW2 affects life more severely than WW1

• clothes and fabrics rationed - 1941-49

• make do and mend campaign due to clothing price

• utility garments

• limited range of clothing available

• war removed many class divisions

• manufacturers realised potential of youth market

• new synthetic fibres developed

1940-50 - socio economic influences - women

• more women in uniform

• worked as volunteers in male occupations while they were at war

• huge need for mass produced affordable clothing

• revolutionised fashion industry

1940-50 - trends - women

• women took good care of clothes to make them last

• female body profile - plain and square

• wartime fashion - iron suits, practical clothing

• trousers and easily matched separates

• wore pedal pushers as many cycled

1940-50 - trends

• menswear - influenced by american fashions

• e.g. trilby hats, jackets, well-padded shoulders, wide, straight cut trousers

• diors feminine new look - 1947

• controversy due to generous fabric use

utility clothing

introduced by british government during 1941

• economic aid to conserve resources during war years

• garment designs modified to make them more efficient to produce

1950 - 1960

a new prosperous era

• overshadowed by the Cold War

1950-60 - socio economic influences

• aftermath of WW2 - reconstruction of industry, improvements to living

• high employment

• ever growing market for clothes

• youth adopted crazes - shaped fashion industry for 20th century

• synthetic fabrics more widely used in late 1950s

1950-60 - socio economic influences - women

• returned to pre war status

• mature elegant woman - feature of early 1950s

1950-60 - socio economic influences - media

• mid 1950s - rise of mass media in film, radio and magazines

• rock and roll music popular - e.g. Elvis

• conformist attitudes rejected by youth - more anti establishment

1950-60 - trends - women

• early 1950s - figure flattering - influenced by dior and Balmain

• lingerie - greatly modified, created well defined figure shape

• conservative attitudes - rise to tailored clothes for women

• tartan and twill trouser - staple leisure garments for women

• beatnik style - skin tight jeans, short dark skirts, sloppy Joe pullovers, heavy makeup

1950-60 - trends

• british designers - Norman Hartnell, hardy Amies

• mens fashion - inspired by british tailoring, the Edwardian look

• working class med - the tidy boy style

• leather motorbike jackets

• t shirts, denim jeans, boots became popular

1960 - 1970

enormous economic and industrial expansion

• social change

1960-70 - socio economic influences

• rapid developments in science, technology and space travel

• new fabrics and material

• advertising promoted synthetic fabrics

• increased leisure time influence clothing styles

• baby boomers became teenagers

• new styles of pop music and colour photograph

• magazines had a big impact on teen fashion

1960-70 - socio economic influences - women

• opportunities for employment grew - married women could easily work

• more girls in further education due to social change

• contraceptive pill introduced - abortion laws reformed

• more liberal attitudes in media

• single girl - typical of era

1960-70 - socio economic influences - youth

• style became more important than quality

• young trendy boutiques opened in carnaby street and kings road in London

• move away from materialism

• young people favoured second hand clothes

• reaction against cheap, mass produced clothes

1960-70 - trends

• big difference in clothing from early to late 60s

• tailored suits favoured - chanel style - easy to match separates and informal shapes became popular

• leather, PVC, easy care fabrics - e.g. crimplene and trevira were popular

• waterproof nylon became popular

• synthetics used for childrens wear

1960-70 - trends - young people and women

• new designers focussed on young people e.g. Mary quant

• models optimised young fashion e.e. twiggy, jean shrimp ton

• skirts got shorter as the decade went on

• women’s dress - dolly girls style or predominantly boyish and sporty

1960-70 - trends - types

• peacock revolution - led by youth mods - changed mens fashions radically

• romantic look 1967/68 - popularised velvet, frills/ruffles of shirts

• hippie movement - afghan jackets, floor length kaftans, unisex fashions, long hair for both sexes

1970 - 1980

economic boom

• cut short by industrial unrest and high inflation

1970-80 - socio economic influences

• fashion was less inventive

• early 1970s = prosperous, thriving consumer society

• 1973 oil crisis = high inflation, caused recession of global trade

• industrial unrest = 3 day week to conserve resources

• expansion in fashion market - greater competition

• manufacturers cut costs by outsourcing to developing countries - cheaper labour

1970-80 - socio economic influences - women and youth

• designers could no longer dictate fashion

• women decided for themselves what they liked

• calf length skirts became passe - manufacturers with unsold stock went out of business

• 1976 - rise of punk, developed in youths as a reaction not unemployment and commercialism

1970-80 - trends - women

• miniskirts continued to be popular

• hot pants were a big trend

• trouser suits worn internationally - by fashion conscious young women

• unisex fashions more prevalent

1970-80 - trends

• platform shoes and boots

• young people- stain shirts, jackets, trousers, fur capes and coats

• childrens clothes similar to adults

• young men - dandy style clothes = kipper ties, fitted printed shirts, large collars

• blue denim jeans became a way of life

• 1940s style influenced fashion

1980 -1990

age of affluence

• rise of the yuppies

1980-90 - socio economic influences

• affluent era

• big wage earners - particularly in finance

• yuppies creating a new style

• Diana married prince Charles - initiated her influence on fashion

• women were more career driven and financially independent

1980-90 - socio economic influences - designers

• Italian frank moschino - mocked high fashion, influenced by surrealist art

• designers questioned established ideas - e.g. issues mistake, Yamamoto, jean Paul Gaultier

• sport and leisure influenced fashion

• donna Karan, norm kamali designed more relaxed clothes

1980-90 - trends - women

• Armani deisgned softer, more relaxed suits - for men and women

• female power dressing styles - symbolised women’s success

• new skirt shapes influenced by historical costume - the mini crane

1980-90 - trends - men

• shift towards expensive, pretentious fashion

• greater demand for designer menswear

• JPG - designed menswear influenced by gay culture

• JPG - dressed men inserts, showed underwear as outerwear

1980-90 - trends

• Japanese designers introduced pioneering, modern materials and garment shapes

• focus on comfort

• amorphous styles

• use of knitted fabrics

1990 - 2000

• stock market crash

• the gulf war

• the rise of the internet

1990-2000 - socio economic influences - recession

• stock market crash - 1987

• caused recession in 90s - less became more

• smaller disposable incomes, curbed consumption

• fashion sales fell

• minimalist, anti consumerism attitudes to fashion

1990-2000 - socio economic influences - pop culture

• street style, rap/hip hop and sportswear were major influences

• clothes made from comfortable fabrics

• celebrities and supermodels influenced trends

• had negative consequences - rise in eating disorders in young women

1990-2000 - socio economic influences

• dress codes were relaxed

• concern over global welfare and safety influenced fashion

• e.g. Lucy ortas - refuge wear

• fashion reflected socio economic and technological progress of the time - the internet

1990-2000 - trends - individuality

• traditional ethnic clothing influenced fashion - push towards individuality

• grunge look developed

• customisation grew as a trend e.g. layered clothing, ex-army boots

• hip hop styles - half mast jeans, baseball caps

• trainers had a big impact - e.g. air Jordans, vans

1990-2000 - trends

• softer, more subtle styles of tailored clothing seen

• issue miyake = pleats please collection - used environmentally friendly fabrics

• cyber fashion - neoprene, polo fleece, rubber, PVC, high performance materials

• deconstruction styles - influent by 1980s Antwerp six

2000 onwards

• terrorism and religious conflict

• advances in new materials

• new manufacturing techniques

2000+ - socio economic influences - fast fashion

• technology developments have influenced fashion

• faster moving fashion due to global trading

• advanced in manufacture and distribution

• continued concern for environment and sustainability

2000+ - socio economic influences

• designers influenced by world events - war, terrorism, conflict

• new electronics, materials, finished used

• celebrity influence still prominent

• new influences from cultural differences - African designers

• new technologies - facilitate more complex manufacturing

• e.g. seamless knitting, digital printing

2000+ - trends - technology

• shopping is very different - internet buying

• electronic components used - for health and performance wear

• wearable GPS systems

• minute radio frequency identification chips (RFID) can track garment manufacture

2000+ - trends

• vintage - welcome and stylish change form contemporary garments

• use of recycled materials

• body con

• designers have humanitarian concern - afterwords