fashion 1960s-now

who diversified the fashion system and when?

yves saint laurent, 1966

1850-1950

setting the system in place

1960s-1990s

diversifying the system

1990s-today

capitalizing on the system

first catwalk show

1901, Lady Duff,

first h&m store

1947

first Zara store

1975

when did fast fashion start to spread?

in the 80s, ultra fast fashion spread from the 2010s onward,

rana plaza

2013, collapse of factory and department store where fast fashion was being made under terrible working conditions,

biba

London boutique, founded in 1964 and moved to a bigger place in 1973, eventually went out of business because they were too succesful

no logo

Naomi Klein, 1999, 7 critiques

1. brand dominance

2. globalisation and exploitatoin

3. corporate censorship and influence

4. impact on cultural and public space

5. environmental concenrs

6. call to action: resistance and activism

How to qualify for a haute couture house?

made-to-order clothing with more than one fitting

fiftheen employees fulltime

twenty fulltime technical workers

present a collection of 50 original designs, both day and evening garments every season in jan and july

chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne

union of fashion workers, proffesionalisation in the fashion industry which hadnt been there since the guild system, founded in 1868

chambre syndicale du pret-a-porter des coutiers et des createurs de mode

1973

1960s 3 trends

1. ladylike elegance

2. hippie style

3. swining london

1970s 3 trends

1. mass accesibility of fashion

2. polyester decade

3. rise of japanese designers in the west

1980s 3 trends

1. new romantics

2. stylish sportswear

3. yuppies

1990s 3 trends

1. supermodels > heroin chic

2. minimalism

3. punk

2000s 3 trends

1. rise of celebrity culture

2. fast fashion

3. globalisation

2010s 3 trends

1. unisex clothing

2. sportswear + streetwear

3. rise of social media

what is the fashion system according to roland barthes

1. the real garment

2. the image garment

3. the written garment

diffusion and defusion

diffusion: sanitizing subcultures for a broader audience, which often dimishes the political, cultural resistance and critique.