Skincare Active Ingredients and Retinoids Review

Flashcards covering key properties, benefits, and chemical characteristics of Azelaic Acid, Retinoids (Vitamin A), and Vitamin C.

Does Azelaic Acid belong to the AHA or BHA family of skincare acids?

No, Azelaic Acid does not belong to any AHA or BHA family; it is considered its own class of skincare.

What is the molecular weight of Azelaic Acid, and how does its molecular size affect skin diffusion and irritation?

Azelaic Acid has a molecular weight of $188\,g\,mol^{-1}$. Because its molecular size is relatively large, it diffuses through the skin slower, making it less irritating than other acids.

What does it mean that Azelaic Acid is amphiphilic, and why is formulation critical?

Amphiphilic means it is both water and oil soluble. However, because it does not dissolve particularly well in either by itself, formulation matters significantly.

What are the five main benefits of Azelaic Acid listed in order?

1. Reduces inflammation, 2. Normalises Keritinisation, 3. Antimicrobial activity, 4. Reduces pigmentation, 5. Improves PIE.

How is Vitamin A categorized in terms of solubility?

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin that is lipophilic (oil soluble).

What are retinoids, and what is their active end point?

Retinoids are a family of Vitamin A compounds that can influence how skin cells behave, and Retinoic acid is their active end point.

How many oxidation steps do Retinol and Retinal need to become retinoic acid?

Retinol needs 2 oxidation steps before becoming retinoic acid, whereas Retinal needs only 1 oxidation step.

What is Tretinoin composed of?

Tretinoin is all retinoic acid.

What are the four primary benefits of Retinoids?

1. Normalises Keritinisation, 2. Treats inflammatory acne, 3. Improves photoaging, 4. Improves pigmentation & uneven skin tone.

What is another name for Vitamin C, and what is its solubility?

Vitamin C is also called Ascorbic Acid, and it is a water-soluble vitamin.

What are the main roles of Vitamin C in skincare?

Its main roles are antioxidant protection, collagen synthesis, brightening pigment, and inflammatory effects.