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Crust
Outermost, solid, rigid.
Mantle
Solid at top, viscous near bottom.
Core
Iron & nickel; outer core liquid, inner core solid.
Lithosphere
crust + upper mantle → divided into tectonic plates.
Convergent
plates collide
Divergent
plates move apart
Transform
plates slide sideways
Continental Crust
granitic, thick, density ~2.7 g/cm³
Oceanic Crust
basaltic, thin, density ~2.9 g/cm³
Ocean-Ocean Divergence
Rising mantle forms mid-ocean ridge.
Magma fills fissure → solidifies → plates move apart.
Continent-Continent Divergence
Thick continental crust → rift valley forms.
Normal faults develop → central blocks sink.
Early stage: linear lakes; later: narrow seas → possible new ocean basin.
Ocean-Continent Convergence
Oceanic subducts → trench + volcanoes
Ocean-Ocean Convergence
Both subduct → trench + volcanic island arcs, earthquakes, tsunamis
Continent-Continent Convergence
Plates collide → mountain ranges
Transform Plate Boundries
Plates slide sideways → no crust formed/destroyed.
Often found along mid-ocean ridges.
Active Margin
At convergent boundaries → subduction, tectonic activity, narrower, less sediment
Passive Margin
Within plates → wide, low tectonic activity, sediment accumulation
Fringing Reef
Coral forms around volcanic island
Barrier Reef
Island erodes, reef continues → barrier
Atoll Reef
Island disappears → lagoon surrounded by reef
Patch Reef
Small clumps of coral, not connected, circular or rhomboid
Ocean Surface Circulation
Driven by sun → pressure differences → wind → surface currents
West coasts
cold currents from poles
East coasts
warm currents from tropics
Coriolis Effect
Deflects moving water → right (N. Hemisphere), left (S. Hemisphere)
Ekman Spiral
Surface water moves with wind; deeper layers move slower & deflected → net flow 90° from wind → causes upwelling/downwelling
Upwelling
Water rises → nutrient-rich → supports fisheries
Downwelling
Water sinks → oxygen transported downward, nutrients reduced at surface
Surface Convergence
Water moves toward each other → downwelling
Surface Divergence
Water moves apart
Eddies
Circular currents → mix nutrients → support marine life
Thermohaline Circulation
Driven by density differences (temp + salinity).
Cold, salty water sinks → flows south → eventually rises (upwelling).
Circulation is slow → ~1,000–1,200 years per cycle.
Breaking waves
Form when height/wavelength ratio > 1:7
Tides
Caused by gravitational pull of moon & sun
Spring tide
Sun + Moon aligned → strong tides
Neap tide
Sun + Moon perpendicular → weaker tides
El Niño
Weak trade winds → warm water moves east → no upwelling → rain in E. Pacific, drought in W. Pacific
La Niña
Cold water in E. Pacific → opposite effects → stronger Peruvian Current, cooler Pacific
Lithogenous Sediment
Sediment from land
Biogenous Sediment
Sediment from organisms
Hydrogenous Sediment
Sediment precipitated from water
Cosmogenous Sediment
Sediment from space
ADCP
Measures currents
Bushmaster/Chimneymaster
Collect hydrothermal vent fauna
Clod Cards
Measure water flow near organisms
Drifters
Track currents
Satellites
Observe global ocean, land, atmosphere
SPMDs
Monitor organic contaminants
Sonar
Maps depth & objects
Submersibles/Trawls
Collect deep sea organisms, measure biomass
Fronts
Boundaries between air masses → cold, warm, occluded, stationary
Precipitation
Rain, hail, snow depending on latitude
Atmospheric Circulation
Prevailing winds → easterlies (low lat), westerlies (mid lat)
Crest
The highest point of a wave
Trough
The lowest point of a wave
Wave Height
Vertical distance between the crest and the trough
Wavelength (λ)
Horizontal distance between two consecutive crests (or troughs)
Amplitude
Half the wave height (distance from the calm water line to the crest or trough)
Frequency (f)
Number of waves passing a fixed point per second
Hertz (Hz) → 1 Hz = 1 wave per second.
Wave Period (T)
Time it takes for two successive crests to pass a point
Wave Speed (c)
How fast the wave travels
How fast the wave travels
c=λ/T (wavelength ÷ period)
Wave Steepness
Ratio of wave height to wavelength
Capillary Waves
Tiny waves caused by surface tension of water.
Wavelength: <1.7 cm
Ripples
Small, short waves caused by wind pressure on the water surface.
Sometimes used interchangeably with capillary waves.
Chop
Short, irregular waves caused by wind blowing on rough water.
Makes the ocean surface appear rough and messy.
Swell
Smooth, long waves that travel far from the storm where they were formed.
Usually more uniform than chop.
Standing Waves
Waves that don’t travel forward. They oscillate in place.
Usually form in enclosed spaces or when waves reflect off an obstruction.