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Psammosere
The characteristic plant succession that develops on a new sand day ecosystem and achieves or is on the way to achieving a climax community
Xerophytes
A species of plant that is adapted to live in dry conditions
Flocculation
The process in an estuary where rive water mixes with seawater and neutralises tha charges on clay particles meaning they are no longer repellent and may stick together and settle out to help build up the muddy shore on an estuary
Halophytes
Salt tolerant plants eg cord grass, mangroves
What do the characteristics of landscapes depend on
Whether it is a high or low energy coastline, dominated by erosion or depositó a nd if it is more or less intensely managed by people
Example of headlands and a bay in the UK
Lulworth cove, Dorset on a concordant coastline, swanage bay, Dorset on a discordant coastline
Example of a s headland and bay outside of the UK
San Francisco bay, california
How are headlands and bays formed
Erosional processes predominate in areas of less resistant rock forming bays and leaving more resistant rock protruding as headlands which then receive highest energy waves due to refraction so are more vulnerable to erosion than the bays which experience low energy waves that allow sediment to accumulate and form beaches
When considering landforms as results of systems operating at the coast, what are the main inputs
Geology and lithology of coast, angle of the dip in the coastline in front of the headland, the nature of the waves approaching the coast, direction and strength of the prevailing wind
When considering landforms as results of systems operating at the coast, what are the components/ processes
Differential rates of erosion of rocks, wave refraction, erosion of headland, deposition in bay
When considering landforms as results of systems operating at the coast, what are the outputs
Characteristic features of resulting landscape eg headland and bay
What is an example of a cliff and wave cut platform in the UK
Flamborough head, holderness coast, uk
What is an example of cliffs and wave cut platforms outside of the UK
Paracas cliffs in Peru
How are wave cult platforms formed
High and steep waves break at the foot of a cliff where their energy and erosive action is concentrated into a small area of the rock face creating an undercut and forming a wave cut notch, further erosion occurs and over time cliff collapses and line will begin to retreat forming a wave cut platform
What happens as a wave cut platform grows
Waves are forced to break further out to sea so have to travel across more platform before reaching the actual cliff leading to greater dissipation of wave energy, reducing the rate of erosion on the cliff and slowing down the rate of growht on the platform
What is the largest a wave cut platform can grown
0.5km → growth beyond this is unusual
Where do steep cliffs form
Where rock is strong and resistant to erosion such as igneous and metamorphic rocks
What cliffs do sedimentary rocks create
Tend to produce steep and dramatic cliffs if they dip steeply or vertically
Other than rock type what forms steep cliffs
Absence of beach and exposed orientation with a long fetch and high energy waves
What rocks form gentle cliffs
Weak or unconsilidated rocks that are prone to slumping, rocks that dip towards the sea
What other factors lead to gentle cliffs
A wide beach to absorb wave energy
What factors determine the rate of retreat of the cliffs
The balance between marine factors such as wave energy, fetch, presence of a beach and terrestrial factos such as sub aerial processes, rock strength and geology
How does rock type influence rate of cliff retreat
Most rapidly retreating cliffs tend to be composed of very weak rock such as glacial till cliffs at the holderness coast
Where are geos, caves , blowholes, arches, stacks and stumps found in the UK
Dorset
Where are geos, caves , blowholes, arches, stacks and stumps found beyond the UK
Australia
Geo
A steep sided inlet formed when a joint that gets widened by the sea
How are geos formed
Weaknesses such as joints and faults are eroded more rapidly by wave action than the resistant rock surrounding them, hydraulic action is particularly important in forcing air and water into the joints and weakening the rock strata, leads to horizontal collapse of rocks forming steep sided, narrow inlets
What is an example of a geo
Huntsman’s leap in Pembrokeshire which is 35 deep and eroded along a large joint in the Carboniferous limestone
When do blowholes form
When goes form as tunnel like caves which run at right angles to the cliff line enlarge and eventually collapse a blowhole is formed
Example of a blowholes
Trevone, Cornwall
Where do landforms of deposition occur
On coastlines where sand and shingle accumulate faster than they are removed where waves are low energy or where rapid erosion provides and abundant supply of material
Example of a beach in the UK
Brighton/ Newquay beach
Example of beaches outside of the UK
Trafalgar beach ,Cadiz, Spain
Where do beaches form
At the point where the land meets the sea, repsreneting the accumulation of sediment deposited between low spring tides and the highest pint reached by storm waves
What type of beach does sand tend to produce and why
A beach with a more sloping gradient → small particle size menas the sand becomes compact when wet and lows very little percolation meaning most swash returns as backwash, little energy is lost to friction and material is carried down the beach
What is formed at the low water mark of sandy beaches
Ridges and runnels which run parallel to the shoreline and are broken by channels that drain the wtaer off the beach
What does shingle make up
The whole or just upper parts of beaches → larger size means gradient is generally steeper eg chesil beach
Why does shingle make a steeper beach
Water rapidly percolated through shingle so the backwash is somewhat limited in its abiliyt to transport material back down the beach meaning very little erosion occurs
Where and why is a storm beach formed
At the back of the beach when strong swash at high tide level despots the largest boulders above the high tide mark
What forms below a storm beach and why
A series of ridges marking the successively low high tides as the cycle goes form spring to neap tide
What are the ridges known as and what wave creates them
Know as berms built up by constructive waves
Cusps
Semi circular shaped depressions a which form when waves break directly onto the beach and swash and backwash are strong
Where do cusps form
At the junction of shingle and sandy beaches
Where do ripples form
Below cusps by wave actio and Tidal currents
Swash alligned beaches
Orientated parallels to the incoming wave crests, experience minimal longshore drift, can be found on irregular coastline where longshore drift is impede and waves hit sections of the coast head on
Drift alligned beaches
Are generally orientated parallel to the direction of dominant longshore drift, can have considerable amounts of sediment transported long distances along them, initially, develop where a section of coastline is fairly regular or where the predominant wave direction is at an angle to the beach, can extend out from the coastline if there is a suffer change in the direction of the coastline eg an estuary
Why is dynamic equilibrium more important for drift alligned beaches
Without a continuous supply of sediment longshore drift would remove sediment faster than is was deposited
Where is an example f a spit in the UK
East head spit West Wittering
Where is an example of a spit outside of the UK
Sandy hook, New Jersey
Spit
Is an elongated narrow ridge o gland that has one end joined to the mainland and protects out into the sea or across an estuary usually on a drift alligned coast
How is a spit formed
Where the coastline changes to a more north south orientation they’re is a build up of sand and shingle transported by longshore drift in the more sheltered water in the Lee of the headland, finer sediment is carried into the deeper wtaer of the estuary and as the water loses its capacity to transport it is deposited, the ends start to curve round as wave refraction carries matieral round into more sheltere water
Why can’t a spit grow all the way across an estuary
The matieral carried is Seaward by the river and the deeper water at the centre of the estuary inhibits growth
What are the two types of spit
Simple and compound
Simple spits
Area straight or recurved, don’t have minor spits or recurved edges along their landward edge, example is spurns head
Compound spits
May have similar features to sople spits, may have recurved edges or minor spits on their landward sides possible indicating the position where they have terminated in the past
When do sand dunes form
When a spit matures and sand dries out it is blown landward side where it can accumulate and become stabilised by vegetation such as marram grass
Examples of tómbola in the UK
Chesil beach, UK
Example of tombolo outside of the UK
Angle Road of Shodo Island, japan
Tombolo
A spit that joins an island to the mainland that may be covered at high tide and forms hen deposition occurs when waves lose energy
Bars
When a spit develops across a bay when they’re is no strong flow of water form the landward side
Offshore bar
A submerged or partially submerged ridge of sand or coarse sediment that is created by waves offshore form the coast
What type of waves from offshore bars and why
Destructive → erode sand form beach and deposit it offshore
What do offshore bars act as
Sediment sinks and stores
Barrier beach/ island
An elongated bank of deposited sand of shingle lying parallel to the coastline and not submerged by incoming tides or where a beach of spit extends across a bay to join two headland s
What do barrer beaches trap behind them
Lagoons eg slapton ley
When do barrier islands form
Where the bank is high enough to allow sand dunes to develop, where a beach becomes separated from the mainland
Example of sand dunes in the UK
Saunton sands, Devon
Example of spit outside of UK
Bolonia, Spain
Sand dunes
Accumulations of sand shaped into mounds by the wind
What is needed for the formation of sand dunes
Plentiful supply of sand to be washed onshore by contrastive waves, strong onshore winds to blow dried sand to the back of the beach, large tidal rangge to create a large exposure of sand that can dry out at low ride, vegetation growth
Steps to form a sand dune
Sand gets trapped by obstacles t the back of the beach, first dunes to develop are embryo dunes which are suitable for colonisation by grasses, grow upwards and height raises above the reach of all bu highest storm tides creating foredunes which contain little organic matter and can reach height os 20m, dunes gradually boom fires ad dune slacks can form
Embryo dunes
Suitable for colonisation by grassses which stabilise the sand, creating hummocky dunes, marram grass roots bind sand together and adds organic matter ans well as aiding water retention → are pioneer species which have adaptions to hep survive in extreme environments
What happens to foredunes as they increase in organic matter
Become more fixed and greyer in colour
Dune slacks
Depressions within dunes where the water table is on or near the surface and conditions are damp
Wasting dunes
Areas behind yellow and grey dunes where sand supply is gradually it off giving smaller dune features