hist of fashion exam II

Tetrarchy

A system of rule established by Emperor Diocletian in 293 CE that divided the Roman Empire into four regions, each ruled by a separate emperor (two senior “Augusti” and two junior “Caesars”).

Visigoth

A Germanic tribe that migrated into the Roman Empire and famously sacked Rome in 410 CE.

→ Known for adopting elements of Roman dress while maintaining their own tribal clothing traditions.

Vandal

Another Germanic group that invaded Roman territories and conquered North Africa, later sacking Rome in 455 CE.

→ Their name became associated with destruction (“vandalism”)

Caliphate

An Islamic government led by a Caliph, regarded as the religious and political successor to the Prophet Muhammad.

→ Caliphates like the Ottoman Empire heavily influenced textile production and luxurious fabrics such as silks and brocades.

Palla

A draped outer shawl worn by Roman women over the stola (long gown).

→ It symbolized modesty and respectability; similar to a modern scarf or wrap.

Toga

A large semicircular garment of wool worn by Roman men, draped over a tunic.

Different styles indicated social rank

Hanfu

Traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, characterized by crossed collars, wide sleeves, and flowing robes tied with a sash.

→ Symbol of cultural identity and elegance during Han Dynasty.

Deel (kaftan)

A long, belted tunic made of wool or silk, worn by Mongols and Central Asian nomads.

→ Practical for horseback riding and protection from harsh climates.

Mongol

Refers to the nomadic people from Central Asia who, under Genghis Khan, created one of the largest empires in history (13th century).

→ They spread textile trade and silk production across Eurasia.

Manchu

An ethnic group from northeastern China who founded the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912).

→ Known for the “banner system” and distinct Manchu robes featuring side fastenings and horse-hoof sleeves.

Han

The major ethnic group in China, dominant throughout most dynasties.

→ The term “Hanfu” derives from them, symbolizing native Chinese culture.

Qipoa

A form-fitting dress developed during the Qing Dynasty, adapted from Manchu robes.

→ Modernized in the 1920s as the cheongsam, blending Chinese tradition with Western tailoring.

Cheongsam

The Cantonese term for Qipao — same garment, different regional name.

→ Represents the fusion of East-West fashion influences and evolving female identity in modern China.

toga candida

bright white, worn by men running for public office.

Toga praetexta

white with a purple border, worn by senators and magistrates.

Toga virilis

plain white, worn by adult Roman citizens (symbolized manhood).

Split or the Roman Empire

285 CE— Emperor Diocletian divided the Roman Empire into the Eastern (Byzantine) and Western Roman Empire to make it easier to govern.

Fall of the western Roman Empire

476 CE— The last Western emperor, Romulus Augustulus, was overthrown by Odoacer, marking the end of ancient Rome in the West.

• Fashion Connection: The fall ended the classical toga era; local tribal dress and Christian modesty replaced Roman attire.

Fall of the eastern Roman Empire (Byzantine)

1453 CE— The Ottoman Turks captured Constantinople, ending the Byzantine Empire.

• Fashion Connection: Byzantine silk and religious motifs heavily influenced Islamic and later Renaissance textiles.

Fall of the Ottoman Empire

1922 CE— After World War I, the Ottoman Empire was dissolved, replaced by the Republic of Turkey (1923).

• Fashion Connection: The fall marked the modernization and Westernization of dress in the Middle East (e.g., replacing traditional robes with Western suits).

Mongol occupation of the Chinese empire

1279-1368 CE— The Yuan Dynasty, founded by Kublai Khan, ruled China under Mongol control.

• Fashion Connection: Cross-cultural exchange flourished — Mongol deels and Chinese silks blended, influencing textile trade along the Silk Road.

Fall of the Chinese Empire

1911 CE— The Qing Dynasty (Manchu rule) was overthrown, ending over 2,000 years of imperial rule.

• Fashion Connection: The Qipao/Cheongsam evolved as women’s roles modernized — blending Manchu and Western dress after imperial collapse.

Hanbok

Traditional Korean dress worn by both men and women, characterized by graceful lines, vibrant colors, and flowing silhouettes.

• Cultural Role: Worn for festivals, ceremonies, and court life; reflects Confucian values of modesty and harmony.

• Symbolism: Colors and fabrics indicated social class and marital status — bright hues for youth, subdued tones for elders

Jeogori

The upper garment of the hanbok — a short jacket with long sleeves that ties in front with a ribbon (called goreum).

• Significance: Worn by both men and women; length, color, and fabric varied by status.

• Visual Cue: Think of it as the “top piece” of the hanbok ensemble.

Chima

The skirt worn by women as part of the hanbok — long, high-waisted, and full.

• Cultural Note: Symbolized femininity and grace; noblewomen’s chima were made of silk or ramie.

• Paired With: Always worn over the jeogori.

Baji

Traditional Korean pants worn by men (and sometimes women under hanbok).

• Significance: Loose-fitting for comfort and movement, practical for both commoners and scholars.

• Textiles: Made from cotton, silk, or hemp depending on class.

Gat

A traditional Korean hat made of horsehair and bamboo, worn by men during the Joseon dynasty.

• Symbolism: Represented social status and dignity — typically worn with formal attire (hanbok).

• Design Note: Its transparent black brim made it iconic in Korean portraiture and film.

Ramie

plant fiber used in Korean and Chinese textiles; lightweight, breathable, and similar to linen.

• Use: Commonly used for summer hanboks and clothing of lower or middle classes.

• Significance: Valued for durability and comfort in humid climates — often seen as a symbol of purity and simplicity.

Celadon

A pale green-glazed ceramic perfected during the Koryo Dynasty (918–1392 CE) in Korea.

• Connection to Textiles: Though not a fabric, celadon reflects Korea’s artistic refinement — its smooth jade color echoed in dye palettes and court fashion.

• Cultural Symbol: Represents elegance, serenity, and craftsmanship.

Kimono

Traditional Japanese robe, long and T-shaped, secured with an obi (sash).

• Cultural Role: Worn by both genders for festivals, ceremonies, and social occasions.

• Symbolism: Patterns, colors, and sleeve lengths signified season, rank, and marital status.

Obi

sash or belt used to tie and secure the kimono.

• Significance: Varied from simple cotton wraps (everyday wear) to elaborate silk brocade belts (formal wear).

• Note: The way it’s tied (knot style) can show age, occasion, or formality.

Tabi

Split-toe socks traditionally worn with kimono and Japanese sandals (zori).

• Cultural Role: Represent cleanliness and discipline in Japanese culture.

• Design Note: Still used today in formal wear and traditional performances.

Zori

Flat, thong-style sandals made of straw, wood, or leather, worn with tabi socks.

• Connection: The precursor to modern flip-flops; everyday footwear in the Edo period.

• Symbolism: Practicality and refinement — often matched with the kimono ensemble.

Kesa

Definition: A Buddhist monk’s robe, adapted from the Indian kāṣāya (patchwork garment).

• Cultural Role: Worn over the shoulder during ceremonies; represents humility and renunciation.

• Artistic Detail: Often made from donated silk brocades, sometimes with woven lotus or cloud motifs.

Noh

Japanese performance art blending theater, music, and dance, emerging in the 14th century.

• Costume Connection: Noh costumes are elaborate silk brocades — often layered kimonos and masks representing spiritual beings or nobles.

• Cultural Meaning: The textiles and colors used in Noh signify a character’s age, gender, and social rank.

Goryeo Dyansty

918-1392 CE

Unified much of the Korean Peninsula following the Three Kingdoms period.

• Textile & Fashion Significance:

• Famous for Goryeo celadon ceramics — their pale jade-green glaze influenced color palettes in textiles and court garments.

• Silk weaving and embroidery flourished, often influenced by Chinese Song and Yuan Dynasties.

Joseon Dynasty

1392 to 1897 CE

Followed Goryeo; founded by Yi Seong-gye; longest-ruling

• Established the hanbok style as we know it today — modest, structured, and symbolic of Confucian hierarchy.

• Colors and fabrics indicated status (bright colors for young, pale for older; silk for upper class, cotton or ramie for commoners).

Kamakura period

1185 to 1333 CE

• Historical Context: Marked the rise of the samurai class and military rule under the shogunate.

• Textile & Fashion Significance:

• Clothing became simpler and more functional, reflecting samurai values of discipline and modesty.

• The kosode, an early version of the kimono, became common.

• Buddhist influence grew — kesa robes and temple textiles flourished.

Early muromachi period

1336 to around 1573 CE (early phase roughly 1336–1467)

Began under the Ashikaga Shogunate in Kyoto; known for cultural revival and artistic exchange with China.

Explore how interactions with large neighboring empires impacted fashion in tribal and feudal societies.

Through trade, conquest, and religion — spreading silk, dyes, and motifs; local groups adapted luxury styles for their own use.

Fuedalism

Land-based hierarchy, nobles vs peasants, dress by class law.

Tribalism

Kin-based, mobile, dress by clan or role, not legal rank

How did status affect costume?

• Byzantine: Silk & purple for elites.

• China: Dragon robes, yellow for emperor.

• Korea: Silk for nobles, ramie for commoners.

• Japan: Layered silk for court, plain cotton for peasants.

How has dress in Japan changed since medieval times?

From layered kimonos & samurai wear → modern Western clothes; kimono now ceremonial.

How has dress in Korea changed since medieval times?

From formal silk hanbok with Confucian colors → Western daily wear; hanbok worn for festivals.