GWS - Baden

Describe Baden in general

Longest and most southerly region in Germany.

15,727 ha / 38,862 ac, 400 km north to south.

Huge influence of co-ops, with 77 total (1 super co-op Badischer Winzerkeller) produce around 80% of the wines

Pinot varieties are 50%, with Spatburgunder a strength.

Describe Baden’s history

Wine first documented in 6th century CE, spreading north from Bodensee.

12th Century rise of the Markgrafen (margraves), who shaped viticulture.

Winemaking disrupted by the German Peasant’s Revolt (1524-25) and 30 year’s war.

18th century saw Baden prosper under Margrave Karl Friedrich.

First co-op in 1881 in Hagnau (Bodensee)

Who was Margrave Karl Friedrich?

Margrave of Baden (1728-1811). Focused on elevating the quality of Baden’s wines. Only allowed vineyards on S-facing slopes, brought Gutedel to Markgraflerland and in 1782 saw that Riesling and Riesling only was to be planted in his vineyards in Klingelberg in Durbach.

Who is Bernhard Huber?

A former co-op grape grower, he started to create his own wines. At the time of his death in 2014, he was producing some of the most acclaimed Spatburgunder and Chardonnay in Germany.

Who is Hanspeter Ziereisen?

A producer from Markgraflerland who led a group of producers who had had enough of seeing their wines turned down from Qualitatswein classification every year. They made Landwein a point of pride in German production.

Describe Baden’s location and climate

Extends from Swiss and French borders and the Bodensee in the south, to an area of high plains in the North.

Bounded by the Vosges Mountains and Rhine in the west and the Schwarzwald in the east.

Germany’s warmest and among its sunniest regions (1700 hours per year)

Temps and precipitation range widely from North to South.

Describe Baden geology

Dominant geological features are the Oberrheingraben (Upper Rhine Rift Valley), Kaiserstuhl Volcanic complex, and the Schwarzwald Mountains.

Schwarzwald is mainly granitic, with the Feldberg as its highest peak.

The Belfort Gap is a 30km saddle between the Vosges and Jurassic mountains, allowing warm Mediterranean air into the Upper Rhine Valley.

Match the common key soils and their locations in Baden

1) Loess: throughout Baden (except Bodensee)

2) Loess-loam: valley floors

3) Shell limestone: Tauberfranken, Badische Bergstrasse, Markgraflerland

4) Limestone: Markgraflerland, Tuniberg

5) Granite: Ortenau

6) Calcareous marl (Breisgau)

7) Volcanic: Kaiserstuhl

8) Moraine gravels: Bodensee

9) Colored sandstone: Badische Bergstrasse

What are the key grape varieties of Baden?

1) Spatburgunder (32.1%)

2) Grauburgunder (15.3%)

3) Muller-Thurgau (13.8%)

4) Weissburgunder (10.6%)

5) Gutedel (6.5%)

6) Riesling (5.6%)

7) Other (16.1%) - 60 total permitted

Describe Baden Grauburgunder

Excellent fit for the warm, dry climate.

Spicy, firm full-bodied dry style or, more rarely, as a heady, botrytized sweet wine. Uplifting acidity. Some use oak.

Describe Baden Muller-Thurgau

Strong in the Bodensee. At higher elevations of the Alpine Foothills, gives enjoyable, fruit-forward wines.

Describe Baden Weissburgunder

Warm climate and volcanic/calcareous loess soils bring out the lesser-known side to this variety: supple, dense, and with a propensity for full bodied expressions.

Oak adds greater complexity.

Describe Baden Gutedel

One of the world’s oldest varieties. Brought from Schwarz (where it is known as Chasselas) by Karl Friedrich and has been a specialty of Markgraflerland since.

Softer acidity, but capable of intense, structured wines capable of aging.

Hanspeter Zieriesen has pushed this variety forward. Can reach phenolic maturity with low must weights, allowing for lower-alcohol wines.

Describe Baden Chardonnay

Baden is the first German region where Chardonnay was permitted for VDP GG designation.

Bernhard Huber in Breisgau has some of Germany’s oldest Chardonnay vines, dating to 1956 (before it was legal)

Desribe Baden Riesling

Can be dense, juicy and lush (Kaiserstuhl) or tensioned and textural (Ortenau).

Riesling on granite is rare in Germany.

Despite being only 6% of plantings, it is considered a strong point for the producers that use it.

Describe Baden Silvaner

More widespread in cooler times, it is relegated to smaller pockets, notably in the Kaiserstuhl.

Describe Baden Spatburgunder

Largest vineyard area, and deepest tradition, of Spatburgunder. Could have come to the region in the 9th or 14th century.

Franz Keller, Bernhard Huber, Joachim Heger and Hanspeter Ziereisen have pushed Spatburgunder’s modern profile here.

Close to half of Germany’s Spatburgunder plantings are in Baden.

Focused on Limestone or Volcanic soils and dense plantings.

Describe Baden Lemberger

Blaufrankisch. Plays a niche role here, with wines rarely exported. It is a permitted GG variety in Kraichgau and Badische Bergstrasse.

Describe Baden Tauberschwarz

Indigenous to Tauberfranken, where it has been cultivated since the 16th century. Thin-skinned, and therefore finnicky.

Almost eradicated during vineyard reorganization, but a few plantings were discovered in 1959. Since 1994 been permitted. Only 30 ac / 12 ha planted.

Light and fruity with notes of dark chocolate, sour cherry and spice.

Describe Baden viticulture.

Hobbywinzer are still a majority. Most vineyards remain smallholdings.

Badisch Rotgold is a local specialty.

Regional organization is Badischer Wein GmbH.

Baden chapter of VDP has 20 members cultivating 1,493 ac / 604 ha of vineyards.

Badisch Winzerkeller is the largest wine producer, and one of the largest co-ops in the world, processing 1400 ha / 3459 ac of grapes and 500 different wines.

What is Badisch Rotgold and Weissherbst?

Legally defined as a co-ferment of Grauburgunder (min of 51%) and Spatburgunder (max of 49%). Can be still or sparkling, typically made in a slightly off-dry style.

Weissherbst is a direct-pressed rose, typically of Spatburgunder and pale, light-bodied and dry or off-dry style.

What are the VDP GG permitted wines?

Riesling

Weissburgunder

Grauburgunder

Chardonnay

Spatburgunder

Lemberger (only in Kraichgau and Badische Bergstrasse)

What are the 9 Baden Bereich?

From S to North

1) Bodensee

2) Margaflerland

3) Tuniberg

4) Kaiserstuhl

5) Breisgau

6) Oternau

7) Kraichgau

8) Bodische Bergstrasse

9) Tauberfranken

306 einzellagen

Describe the Bereich Bodensee

580 ha / 1433 ac; among the highest vineyard elevations in Germany (390-560m). Soils = glacial moraine gravels with pockets of volcanic rock. No Loess.

Viticulture has existed here for at least 1000 years, with Charlemagne III potentially bringing Spatburgunder here in 884.

Overall mild conditions, with the Foehn (an alpine wind that helps dry the vines). Highest annual precipitation levels in Baden are here.

Spatburgunder, Grauburgunder and Muller-Thurgau dominate. “Lake wine” styles - light and fresh.

Johannes Aufricht is considered as the region’s most acclaimed producer of Muller-Thurgau and other varieties.

Where is the highest vineyard in all of Germany located?

In the Bodensee, on the Hohentwiel at 560 m (1837 ft)

Describe the Bereich Markgraflerland

3,130 ha / 7,734 ac. Germany’s most SW district, touching France and Schweiz. Along Rhine plain and southern Schwarzwald. Elevations of 210-470m. Wetter and cooler than its neighbors due to the Schwarzwald, while the Belfort Gap allows for warmer air.

Gutedel is the flagship variety and the only region in Germany where it is widely cultivated. Spatburgunder is number 2.

Describe the Markgraflerland village of Efringen-Kirchen

Hanspeter Zieriesen established their winery here in 1991.

Vineyard: Olberg (L - 20-99 ha / 49-245 ac)

• Notable for rare Jurassic limestone, with high-lime-content loess.

• Gutedel and Spatburgunder predominate.

Describe the Markgraflerland village of Ehrenstetten

Vineyard: Olberg (L - 20-99 ha / 49-245 ac)

• Clay-rich loess-loam soils. Gives density and power to the wines here.

  • Chardonnay and Weissburgunder!

Describe the Markgraflerland village of Schliengen

Vineyard: Sonnenstuck (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Broad, gently angled grouping of vineyards arrayed around Schliengen.

• Patchwork of soils: loess and loess-loam most commonly.

• Spatburgunder, Chardonnay and Gutedel are the leading varieties

Describe Bereich Tuniberg

1,050 ha / 2,595 ac. Low, unforested limestone ridge stretching between the Kaiserstuhl and Markgraflerland in the Rhine plain. Peaks at 314 m.

Does not benefit from the volcanism of Kaiserstuhl.

Ice age Loess covered most of the area.

Warm climate. Spatburgunder (and pinot varieties more generally) is most common.

A clear identity has not yet emerged for its producers and villages.

Describe Bereich Kaiserstuhl

“Kaiser’s Throne.” A majestic volcanic complex. 4,165 ha / 10,292 ac. Baden’s largest and best known district. Elevation of 190-400 m / 623-1312 ft (Totenkopf is the highest peak at 557m).

85% of area is covered by loess, thickest in the NE-facing vineyards. SW-facing ones are dominated by exposed volcanic rock (tephrite and essexite).

Flurbereiningung was “too thorough” and marred much of the landscape, leaving some terraces but also challenges such as erosion.

Can endure “furnace like” growing conditions. Pinot varieties, Riesling and Silvaner thrive here. Risks are drought, erosion and excessive ripening.

Describe the Kaiserstuhl village of Achkarren

Acclaimed as some of Baden’s best.

Vineyard: Schlossberg (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Composed of a series of amphitheaters on deep volcanic soils. S exposures, darky rocky and dry soils. Scalding temps.

• Prized site for Pinots, giving aromatic, structured expressions.

Describe the Kaiserstuhl village of Bickensohl

Nestled against an extensive arboretum on an upper portion of the Kaiserstuhl, cooling the region.

Vineyard: Herrenstuck (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Loess with some volcanic soils. Pinots dominate.

Describe the Kaiserstuhl village of Ihringen

Premier “Volcanic” Village

Vineyard: Winklerberg (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Flagship of the region, hottest vineyard in Germany.

• Vorderer Winklerberg is a lower parcel with dry-stone walls and rocky red tephrite soils. S-SW exposures. Water supply is constant concern

• Spatburgunder is the most planted variety, with Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder, also thriving.

  • Confoundingly, Riesling and Silvaner remain signatures too.

Describe the Kaiserstuhl village of Oberrotweil

Several acclaimed vineyards call this village home.

Vineyard: Eichberg (M - 5-20 ha / 12-49 ac)

• Sun-drenched cone of black volcanic soil and tuff.

• Powerful, structured pinot varieties are the signature.

Vineyard: Henkenberg (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Gentle slope with highly diverse volcanic soils, including some loess and loess-loam.

• Pinots!

Vineyard: Kirchberg (S - <5 ha / 12 ac)

• Sheltered by a forest to the north. Stony volcanic soils with some calcareous veins on moderate, south-facing slopes give Pinot varieties depth and ageability.

Describe the Kaiserstuhl village of Burkheim

Medieval wine town on the westernmost spur of the region, directly overlooking the Rhine Valley plain and the river itself. Closer to the Rhine than any other Baden village.

Vineyard: Feuerberg (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• SW on moderate slopes of dark, volcanic soils. Loess in lower areas.

• Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder shine.

Describe Bereich Breisgau

Sits on the Schwarzwald’s cool, wet, western edge. 1600 ha / 3954 ac. Hilly district with a wide range of topography. Notable elevations (up to 450 m / 1476 ft).

Soils of gneiss, loess, loess-loam and shell-limestone.

Pinot varieties thrive - Spatburgunder is most of the plantings, with significant Weissherbst production.

Describe the Breisgau village of Malterdingen

Hallowed ground for Spatburgunder, with the village giving it’s name to the variety for centuries. Schwarzwald brings signiifcant rainfall and cool temps.

Calcareous soils. Bernhard Huber put this village on the map with his Spatburgunder and Chardonnay in the 1990s.

Vineyard: Bienenberg (XL - >99 ha / 245 ca)

• Notable for its prime parcels, many facing south on moderate to steep (partially terraced) slopes of shell limestone and loess.

• Known for Spatburgunder and Chardonnay

Describe the Breisgau village of Hecklingen

Vineyard: Schlossberg (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Surrounds the village on 3 sides, opening SW to the Rhine Valley Plain.

• Soils are loess, with parcels on weathered shell limestone.

• Spatburgunder and Chardonnay are notable.

Describe the Breisgau village of Bombach

Vineyard: Sommerhalde (L - 20-99 ha / 49-245 ac)

• Surrends the village on slopes facing all directions. Choicest parcels face S-SW at elevations up to 300m / 984 ft.

• Limestone and Loess soils

Describe the Bereich of Ortenau

2,724 ha / 6,731 ac. Extends 60km from the spa town of Baden-Baden to Berghaupten. Vineyards face S and W in narrow side valleys of the region. The most famous is the Durbachtal.

Elevations range from 180-380 m / 591-1247 ft.

Only Baden district where weathered granite and gneiss soils predominate. Some porphery around Baden-Baden.

40% Spatburgunder. Riesling on >25%.

Dominated by Hobbywinzer and cooperatives.

Weingut Schloss Ortenberg is a notable independent estate.

Wines in Northern Ortenau are permitted to be bottled in Bocksbeutel.

Describe the Ortenau village of Durbach

Cool, forested side valley. Lush Riesling and Traminer on steep slopes.

Vineyard: Plauelrain (XL - >99 ha / 245 ac)

• Best parcels (Am Buhl and Stollenberg) face S-SE. Shallow, weathered granite and fine sandy soils.

• Riesling!

Vineyard: Olberg (M - 5-20 ha / 12-49 ac)

• Steep site on granitic soils. Best known for Riesling, with some Gewurztraminer (otherwise rare in Baden)

Vineyard: Schlossberg (L - 20-99 ha / 49-245 ac)

• Very steep site on weathered granite with some gneiss, porphyry and loess.

• Lush, ripe Riesling, Spatburgunder and Chardonnay.

• Riesling in Klingelberg parcel since 1782

Describe Ortenau village of Neuweier

Vineyard: Schlossberg (S - <5 ha / 12ac)

• Outstanding Riesling site, preserved from Flurbereinigung.

• Best parcels are teraraced on slopes that are staggeringly steep and face S/SW.

• Weathered rhyolite with fine volcanic sands. Wines can be full-bodied, with considerable extract and good aging potential.

Describe Bereich Kraichgau

1,257 ha / 3106 ac, extending some 50km South to North. In a trough between the Schwarzwald and Odenwald ranges. Forest, meadows and vines characterize the region.

130-240 m in elevation, only reaching 330m around Pforzheim. 3/4ths loess, with some Keuper (marls), Buntsandstein (colored sandstone) dominating in the Northern and Eastern portions.

Muller-Thurgau and Riesling are the leading grapes. Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder are also important. Auxerrois is a niche specialty.

Describe Bereich Badische Bergstrasse

Baden’s smallest district (400 ha / 988 ac). Narrow strip of vineyards between the Upper Rhine Plain and the Odenwald foothills. Elevations up to 250m, almot all on gentle, west-facing slopes. Includes the university town of Heidelberg.

Soils: granite, with low-lying areas are covered in loess-loam. Shell limestone dominates in the southern portion. Isolated pockets of colored sandstone.

Rieslings! Spatburgunder tends to be planted in warmer sites and can be full-bodied.

Vineyard: Herrenberg (L - 20-99 ha / 49-245 ac)

• Directly below a shell-limestone quarry. Shell limestone and loess-loam layers. W-SW exposures on moderate slopes at 250m.

• Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder and Spatburgunder!

• Oberklamm and Spermen are notable parcels here

Describe Bereich Tauberfranken

610 ha / 1500 ac, split between 3 states. Mostly located along the Tauber river in valleys with a S-facing slopes. Average elevation is 150-340m.

Shell limestone predominates. Medium thick layers of Braunerde (brown earth) and calcareous rock cover the region. Vineyards are steep and, in the past, widely terraced.

Climate is relatively cool. 70% are planted to white varieties (Muller-Thurgau and Kerner). Spatburgunder, Schwarzriesling and Tauberschwarz account for the rest.

Bocksbeutel is permitted.

Vineyard: First (L - 20-99 ha / 49-245 ac)

• Moderate, S-SW facing slope of rocky shell limestone, sandstone and loam. In the rain shadow of the Odenwald, giving it a relatively dry climate.

• Spatburgunder and Riesling!