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crest
Highest point of a wave
trough
Lowest point of a wave
wavelength
The distance between any two repeating portions of a wave (e.g., two successive wave crests).
wave base
The depth in which the movement of waves can be felt, specifically by sediments. This is approximately equal to 1/2 the wavelength. Wave base can change depending on fair weather verses stormy weather.
wave break
A wave breaks when its base (the water beneath the surface) can no longer sustain its height.
surf
The mass or line of foamy water caused by the breaking of the sea upon a shore, especially a shallow or sloping shore.
wave refraction
the bending of waves so that they move nearly parallel to the shoreline
headland
Is a coastal landform, a point of land usually high and often with a sheer drop, that extends into a body of water.
bay
is a body of water partially surrounded by land.
longshore currents
A net movement that occurs as waves intersect the shoreline at non-perpendicular angles.
beach drift
is the movement of sand and sediment down the length of a beach.
beach
an area of the shoreline that is made up of deposited sediment
spit
A ridge of sediment that occurs out into a body of water, formed via longshore currents.
baymouth bar
A place where a spit extends out and covers a bay.
daily tides
the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun, and the rotation of the Earth.
high tide
The time at which the tide reaches its highest level
low tide
The time at which the tide reaches its lowest level
monthly tides
variation in the tides due to the position of the moon and the sun relative to the earth
spring tide
Highest high tide of the month.
neap tide
Lowest low tide of the month.
