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Textile definition
Describes any product made from fibers
Fabric definition
A flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination
Consumer Textiles
apparel & home furnishings
industrial textiles
materials that meet the definition of a textile and are used in construction, insulation, automobiles, airplanes, spacecraft, etc.
Fiber definition
Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-wide ratio possessing suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric
3 things that dictate fiber properties “Morphology”
Fiber Class
Molecular Arrangement
Fiber shape
Fiber Classes
protein
cellulose
regenerated/derivative
synthetic
other (glass, metal, mineral)
Fiber shape
length
cross-section
surface contour
diameter
Staple - Fiber Length
Short
Filament - fiber length
long
What determines the way a textile feels to the skin
Fiber Shape
What determines the ability to retain heat or insulate
molecular arrangement
Fiber Shape: cross-sectional shape
Fiber Class
What determines the ability to transfer heat through a textile
Molecular Arrangement
Fiber shape: cross-sectional shape
Smooth with no canals
Fiber class
what determines ability to retain a given size & shape with use and care
Fiber Class
Sensitivity to heat (thermoplasticity)
what determines the ability to bend repeatedly without breaking
The manner in which a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D form
Fiber Shape: diameter
Thinner fibers = drap
what determines the ability to return to original shape after deformation
Molecular Arrangement
Fiber Class
Oriented
Hydrophilic
moisture loving (absorbent)
Hydrophobic
Moisture fearing (non-absorbent)
what determines the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along it’s surface
Fiber class
Fiber shape :surface contour
what determines resistance to the grow of mold, mildew or fungus
Fiber class
Absorbency (fiber shape and molecular arrangement)
cellulose
plant based fibers
Common Properties of Cellulosic Fibers
Good Absorbency (hydrophilic)
Poor Resiliency (wrinkle easily)
Good Conductor of Electricity (low Static)
Flammable
Damaged easily by acids but not alkalis
Subject to mold/mildew
May be damaged by insects
steps in cotton fiber production
Picked
ginned
baled
cotton By products
Linters
cottonseed oil
animal feed
fertilizer
cotton processing
carding (required)
combing (optional)
Mercerization (optional)
Bleaching (optional)
Cotton’s length (staple or filament)
Staple
Cotton Molecular arrangement (amorphous, oriented)
amorphous
what are 2 end uses for cotton
Clothes
Bedding
What are 2 properties that are unique to cotton?
High tenacity
heat conductive
Flax/linen Fiber production
hand labor
retting: decomposing pectin
scutching: removes woody portion
hackling: combing fibers
Flax/linen By-products
paper
flaxseed oil
“ag waste”
flax/linen fiber processing
very little additional processing needed
Flax/linen Fiber shaoe
Oriented Molecular Arrangement
Long Staple
Irregular Diameter
Central Canal
Nodes
In what ways is flax/linen unlike cotton?
Some luster
Poor flexibility
Fair abrasion resistance
Excellent wicking
Linen End uses
table clothes, wallpaper, towels
Proteins
Some luster
Poor flexibility
Fair abrasion resistance
Excellent wicking
Monomer - Amino acids in polypeptide chains
Common Properties of Protein Fibers
- good resiliency (wrinkle resistant)
- hydrophilic
- sensitive to alkalis and bleach
- damaged by dry heat
wool
Fiber From sheep
wool production
Live Animal Shearing or pulled wool
recycled wool production
Wool yarns or fabrics can be garnetted (shredded) back into fibrous like product for re-use by carding, combing, spinning, etc.
Wool By-Products
Lanolin oil
Mutton and Lamb
wool processing
Sourcing (required)
Carding (required)
Combing (optional)
Carbonization
Fulling
What are the benefits of COMBING wool
Increases smoothness
Increases softness
what does the Wool Products Labeling Act (WPLA) require?
Requires that the label describe the fiber content in terms of percentage and fiber source
Requires WPL or RN registration number of the manufacturer)
Requires country of origin
Wool molecular arrangment
oriented
wool length
staple
wool surface contour
scaly
wool properties
amorphous - absorbent
thermal retention
low luster
low tenacity - weaker when wet
Wool End Uses
socks, scarfs, blankets
Silk
extruded fiber, typically from the silkworm
Silk cultivation
Bombyx mori
Domestic silkworm (caterpillar of the Silk Moth)
400-600 eggs
Fed mulberry leaves
Consistent Feedings
Produces “cultivated silk”
silk production
Domesticated silkworms produce filament silk
Wild silkworms produce staple silk
Silk processing (optional)
Boil off
weighted dyeing
silk molecular structure
oriented
silk fiber length
Filament (only natural filament)(can be cut to staple length)
Silk cross-section
Triangular cross-section
Silk Surface Contour
smooth or angular surface contour
what are some crazy silk properties
High luster, high tenacity, good wicking, natural luster, resistant to mold and mildew
why is silk absorbent?
because its a protein
silk end uses
dress, scarves, ties, formal attire, blouses
Spider Silk
Exceptional strength & elasticity
Protein
Spidroin
What’s a manufactured fiber?
Any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from chemical compounds
what are the types of manufactured fibers?
regenerated and synthetic
regnerated fibers are derived from..
cellulose or protein
synthetic fibers are derived from…
petrochemicals
manufactured fibers production
Raw material
Substance(s) to form solution
Spinning solution (dope/Melt)
Material from which fiber is formed
extrusion
Forcing dope/melt through tiny holes in the spinneret
spinneret
Small nozzle through which dope/melt is forced
manufactured fiber solidification methods
wet spinning, dry spinning, melt spinning
Parent definition
fiber in its simplest form
bi-component fibers
one fiber incorporates two polymers which are chemically different, physically different, or both
dimensional stability
ability to retain shape
