Textiles Exam 1

Textile definition

Describes any product made from fibers

Fabric definition

A flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination

Consumer Textiles

apparel & home furnishings

industrial textiles

materials that meet the definition of a textile and are used in construction, insulation, automobiles, airplanes, spacecraft, etc.

Fiber definition

Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-wide ratio possessing suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric

3 things that dictate fiber properties “Morphology”

Fiber Class

Molecular Arrangement

Fiber shape

Fiber Classes

protein

cellulose

regenerated/derivative

synthetic

other (glass, metal, mineral)

Fiber shape

length

cross-section

surface contour

diameter

Staple - Fiber Length

Short

Filament - fiber length

long

What determines the way a textile feels to the skin

Fiber Shape

What determines the ability to retain heat or insulate

molecular arrangement

Fiber Shape: cross-sectional shape

Fiber Class

What determines the ability to transfer heat through a textile

Molecular Arrangement

Fiber shape: cross-sectional shape

Smooth with no canals

Fiber class

what determines ability to retain a given size & shape with use and care

Fiber Class

Sensitivity to heat (thermoplasticity)

what determines the ability to bend repeatedly without breaking

The manner in which a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D form

Fiber Shape: diameter

Thinner fibers = drap

what determines the ability to return to original shape after deformation

Molecular Arrangement

Fiber Class

Oriented

Hydrophilic

moisture loving (absorbent)

Hydrophobic

Moisture fearing (non-absorbent)

what determines the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along it’s surface

Fiber class

Fiber shape :surface contour

what determines resistance to the grow of mold, mildew or fungus

Fiber class

Absorbency (fiber shape and molecular arrangement)

cellulose

plant based fibers

Common Properties of Cellulosic Fibers

Good Absorbency (hydrophilic)

Poor Resiliency (wrinkle easily)

Good Conductor of Electricity (low Static)

Flammable

Damaged easily by acids but not alkalis

Subject to mold/mildew

May be damaged by insects

steps in cotton fiber production

Picked

ginned

baled

cotton By products

Linters

cottonseed oil

animal feed

fertilizer

cotton processing

carding (required)

combing (optional)

Mercerization (optional)

Bleaching (optional)

Cotton’s length (staple or filament)

Staple

Cotton Molecular arrangement (amorphous, oriented)

amorphous

what are 2 end uses for cotton

Clothes

Bedding

What are 2 properties that are unique to cotton?

High tenacity

heat conductive

Flax/linen Fiber production

hand labor

retting: decomposing pectin

scutching: removes woody portion

hackling: combing fibers

Flax/linen By-products

paper

flaxseed oil

“ag waste”

flax/linen fiber processing

very little additional processing needed

Flax/linen Fiber shaoe

Oriented Molecular Arrangement

Long Staple

Irregular Diameter

Central Canal

Nodes

In what ways is flax/linen unlike cotton?

Some luster

Poor flexibility

Fair abrasion resistance

Excellent wicking

Linen End uses

table clothes, wallpaper, towels

Proteins

Some luster

Poor flexibility

Fair abrasion resistance

Excellent wicking

Monomer - Amino acids in polypeptide chains

Common Properties of Protein Fibers

- good resiliency (wrinkle resistant)

- hydrophilic

- sensitive to alkalis and bleach

- damaged by dry heat

wool

Fiber From sheep

wool production

Live Animal Shearing or pulled wool

recycled wool production

Wool yarns or fabrics can be garnetted (shredded) back into fibrous like product for re-use by carding, combing, spinning, etc.

Wool By-Products

Lanolin oil

Mutton and Lamb

wool processing

Sourcing (required)

Carding (required)

Combing (optional)

Carbonization

Fulling

What are the benefits of COMBING wool

Increases smoothness

Increases softness

what does the Wool Products Labeling Act (WPLA) require?

Requires that the label describe the fiber content in terms of percentage and fiber source

Requires WPL or RN registration number of the manufacturer)

Requires country of origin

Wool molecular arrangment

oriented

wool length

staple

wool surface contour

scaly

wool properties

amorphous - absorbent

thermal retention

low luster

low tenacity - weaker when wet

Wool End Uses

socks, scarfs, blankets

Silk

extruded fiber, typically from the silkworm

Silk cultivation

Bombyx mori

Domestic silkworm (caterpillar of the Silk Moth)

400-600 eggs

Fed mulberry leaves

Consistent Feedings

Produces “cultivated silk”

silk production

Domesticated silkworms produce filament silk

Wild silkworms produce staple silk

Silk processing (optional)

Boil off

weighted dyeing

silk molecular structure

oriented

silk fiber length

Filament (only natural filament)(can be cut to staple length)

Silk cross-section

Triangular cross-section

Silk Surface Contour

smooth or angular surface contour

what are some crazy silk properties

High luster, high tenacity, good wicking, natural luster, resistant to mold and mildew

why is silk absorbent?

because its a protein

silk end uses

dress, scarves, ties, formal attire, blouses

Spider Silk

Exceptional strength & elasticity

Protein

Spidroin

What’s a manufactured fiber?

Any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from chemical compounds

what are the types of manufactured fibers?

regenerated and synthetic

regnerated fibers are derived from..

cellulose or protein

synthetic fibers are derived from…

petrochemicals

manufactured fibers production

Raw material

Substance(s) to form solution

Spinning solution (dope/Melt)

Material from which fiber is formed

extrusion

Forcing dope/melt through tiny holes in the spinneret

spinneret

Small nozzle through which dope/melt is forced

manufactured fiber solidification methods

wet spinning, dry spinning, melt spinning

Parent definition

fiber in its simplest form

bi-component fibers

one fiber incorporates two polymers which are chemically different, physically different, or both

dimensional stability

ability to retain shape