BT: ADHESIVES & PAINTS (copy)

Casein Glue

product is made by dissolving casein, a protein obtained from milk. In wood bonding,
casein glues generally are superior to true animal glues in moisture resistance and aging
characteristics.

Animal Glue

adhesive that is created by prolonged boiling of animal connective
tissue. Animal glue is the most common woodworking glue for thousands of years

Asphalt Cement

primary use of asphalt (Bitumen) is in road construction, where it is used as the glue or
binder for the aggregate particles

Natural Rubber Adhesive

often vulcanized, a process by which the rubber is heated and sulfur, peroxide or bisphenol are added to
improve resilience and elasticity, and to prevent it from perishing.

Phenolic Resin

dry and liquid form, excellent bond to wood and paper requiring hot press used to manufacture plywood.

Neoprene

available as either solvent or aqueous compositions. They
can be low viscosity sprayable and roll coatable, intermediate viscosity brushable, or have high
viscosity mastic-like consistencies.

Melamine Adhesive

fast setting adhesive specially formulated for room temperature bonding of porous substrate to difficult-to-bond synthetic
materials such as melamine surfaces and highly impregnated papers. Product also shows success in bonding wood to metals
such as stainless steel, copper and aluminum

Epoxy Resin

major part of the class of adhesives called "structural adhesives" or "engineering adhesives" (which also includes polyurethane, acrylic, cyanoacrylate, and other chemistries.)
These high-performance adhesives are used in the construction of aircraft, automobiles, bicycles, boats, golf clubs, skis,
snow boards, and other applications where high strength bonds are required.

Polyvinyl Resin (PVA)

sold as an adhesive for porous materials, particularly wood, paper, and cloth. It is the most
commonly used wood glue, both as "white glue" and the yellow "carpenter's glue", e.g. Elmers Glue

Sodium Silicate Adhesive

also known as water glass or liquid glass, available in aqueous solution and in solid form, is a compound used in cements,
passive fire protection, refractories, textile and lumber processing.
Also used for automotive engine blocks and gaskets.

Cyanoacrylate

based fast-acting glues such as ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate (commonly sold under trade
names like Superglue and Krazy Glue). It is a tenacious adhesive, particularly when used to bond non-porous materials or those that contain minute
traces of water.
Ex: Mighty Bond or Super Glue

Sealants

Products used to seal surface of different materials against water penetration or other liquids or prevent seepage. Its
adhesive qualities plus the ability to fill the surface pores to form a continuous skin on a surface are important.

Caulking

process used to seal the seams in wooden boats or ships, and riveted iron or steel ships, in order to make them
watertight.

Silicone

largely inert compounds with a wide variety of forms and uses. Typically heat-resistant, nonstick, and rubberlike, they
are frequently used in cookware, medical applications, aquariums, lubricants, and insulation.
Can be used for filling around PVC windows, Lead Work/Flashing, Polycarbonate roofing sheets, Sticking up Signs, PVC
window Trims and Panels. (many colors available

POLYSULFIDE

excellent adhesiveness and highly flexible and can be applied either manual brush or by spray

Polyurethane (Sealant)

commonly formulated as paints and varnishes for finishing coats to protect or seal wood. This
use results in a hard, abrasion-resistant, and durable coating that is popular for hardwood floors, but considered by some to
be difficult or unsuitable for finishing furniture or other detailed pieces.
The longevity of stone can be extended if it is effectively sealed against the ingress of damaging liquids and minerals such
as salts. The ancient Romans often used olive oil to seal their stone.

Paints

solution of a pigment in water, oil, or organic solvent, used to cover wood or metal articles either for protection or for appearance

Architectural Paints

air-drying materials applied by brush or spray to architectural and structural surfaces
and forms for decorative and protective purposes

Commercial Paints

air-drying or baking-cured materials applied by brush, spray, or magnetic agglomeration to
kitchen and laundry appliances, automobile, machinery, and furniture and used as highway marking materials

Industrial Paints

subdivided by their intended service: corrosion-resistant coatings, high temperature coatings,
and coatings for immersion service

Pigment

gives the paint a colour, but also plays a role in its consistency, ease of application, drying ability,
durability and hardness. Varnish has no pigment.

Vehicle

liquid in which pigment is dispersed before being applied to a surface in order to control consistency,
adhesion, gloss and durability

Binder

makes the coat of paint retain its structure, and binds it to the surface to which it is applied

Stain-

no binder

Solvent

dissolves the paint to make it usable at normal room temperatures

Primers

basecoats applied to a surface to improve the adhesion of subsequent coats of paint or varnish

Sealers

basecoats applied to a surface to reduce absorption of subsequent coats of paint or varnish, or to
prevent bleeding through the finish coat

Oil Paints

utilize a drying oil that oxidizes and hardens to form a tough elastic film when exposed to thin layer of air.

Alkyd Paints

binder an alkyd resin, such as chemically modified soy or linseed oil.

Latex Paints

binder an acrylic resin that coalesces as water evaporates from the emulsion

Epoxy Paints

epoxy resin as a binder for increased resistance to corrosion, abrasion and chemicals

Rust Inhibiting Paints

formulated with anti-corrosive pigments to prevent /reduce the corrosion of metal surfaces.

Fire Retardant Paints

especially formulated with silicone and polyvinyl chloride or other substance to reduce
the flame spread of a combustible material

Heat Resistant Paints

specially formulated w/ silicone resins to withstand high temperatures

Intumescent Coatings

when exposed to the heat of a fire, swell to form a thick insulating layer of inert foam that
retards flame spread and combustion

Stains

solution of dye or suspension of pigment in a vehicle, applied to penetrate and color a wood surface
without obscuring the grain

Penetrating Stain

permeate a wood surface, leaving a very thin film on the surface

Water Stain

penetrating stain made by dissolving dye in a water vehicle

Spirit Stain

penetrating stain made by dissolving dye in an alcohol or spirit vehicle

Pigmented Stain

opaque stain is an oil stain containing pigments capable of obscuring the grain and texture of
a wood surface

Varnish

Resin solution forming hard, transparent coating.

Oil Stain

made by dissolving dye or suspending pigment in a drying oil or oil varnish vehicle.

Varnish

liquid preparation of a resin dissolved in an oil or in alcohol that when spread and allowed to dry forms
a hard, lustrous and transparent coating

Oil based varnish while alcohol based are spirit stain

Spar Varnish

Marine varnish is a durable, weather resistant varnish made from durable resins and linseed or tung oil

Polyurethane

Varnish of exceptionally hard, abrasion resistant and chemical resistant varnish made from plastic resin of the
same name.

Lacquer

Refers to any of various clear or colored synthetic coatings consisting of nitrocellulose or other cellulose derivative
dissolved in a solvent that dries by evaporation to form a high gloss film.

Shellac

Spirit varnish made by dissolving purified lac flakes in denatured alcohol

Paints can be applied

Brush
Spray
Roller

Surface Preparation (Exterior):
Previously painted surfaces:

Scrape off loose paint and sand smooth.
Old, fading paint must be removed to provide adhesion for the new coats of paint.
Nail back loose boards, countersink the nail heads and fill with putty.
To prevent discoloration paint later, seal knots resinous spots with a thin coat of shellac.

Surface Preparation (Exterior):
New wood exteriors

The surface must be clean and dry
Rough spots in siding should be sanded smooth
All new wood must be primed
After the prime coat has been dried, putty and fill all nail holes and cracks
Caulk joint around doors and window frames
If pre-primed siding is hard and slick, it should be re-primed

Surface Preparation (Exterior):
Masonry floors:

Interior and exterior concrete floors must be to dry approximately 90 days for aging.
Fresh cement contains alkali which burn paint.
Floors subjected to excessive seepage, or hydrostatic pressure, cannot be successfully painted.

Surface Preparation (Exterior):
Metal surfaces:

All metal surfaces must be cleaned and dry
Remove any rust, mill scale or loose paint by wire brushing, sandblasting/sandpapering.
Bare spots on shop-coated steel must be wire- brushed and spot primed.
Remove oil and grease with paint thinner or mineral spirits.
No priming necessary when applying exterior latex to weathered galvanized metal.

Surface Preparation (Interior):

The surface to be painted must be:
- Clean and free of wax, dirt or grease
- Cracks and holes must be repaired with patching plaster
- Patched areas must be spot primed
- Old glossy surfaces should be prepared by sanding

Proper Application:

Avoid painting in the hot sun. Try to paint those surfaces that have already been exposed to sunlight
Apply a coat of paint primer
Finish with two-coat of top coats

Blistering:

Bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion and lifting of the paint film from the underlying
surface

Possible Causes:
• Applying oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface
• Moisture seeping into the home through the exterior walls
• Exposure of the latex paint film to high humidity or moisture shortly after paint has dried, especially if there are
inadequate surfaces.

Solution:
• If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate: Remove blisters by scraping & sanding, and repaint with a
quality acrylic latex interior paint.
• If blisters go down to the substrate: Remove the source of moisture, if possible.

Blocking

Undesirable sticking together of two painted surfaces when pressed together (e.g., a door sticking to the jamb)

Possible Causes:
• Not allowing sufficient dry time for the coating before closing doors or windows.
• Use of low quality semi-gloss or gloss paints.
•

Solution:
• Use top quality semi-gloss or gloss acrylic latex paint. Acrylic latex paints generally have better early block
resistance than vinyl latex paints, or alkyd or oil-based paints

Burnishing:

Increase in gloss or sheen of paint film when subjected to rubbing, scrubbing or having an object brush
up against it.

Possible Causes:
• Use of flat paint in highly trafficked areas, where a higher sheen level would be desired.
• Frequent washing and spot cleaning.
• Objects (furniture, for example) rubbing against the walls.

Solution:
• Paint heavy wear areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors, window sills and trim) with a top quality latex
paint
• In high traffic areas, choose a semi-gloss or gloss rather than a flat sheen level

Cracking/ Flaking

The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat as a result of aging, which ultimately will lead to complete
failure of the paint. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks; in its later stages, flaking occurs.

Possible Causes:
• Use of a lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility.
• Over-thinning or overspreading the paint.
• Inadequate surface preparation or applying the paint to bare wood without first applying a primer.

Solution:
• Remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the surface and feathering the edges.
• Prime bare wood areas before repainting.
• Use of a top quality primer and top coat should prevent a recurrence of the problem.

Foaming/ Cratering

Formation of bubbles (foaming) and resulting small, round concave depressions (cratering) when bubbles break in a
paint film, during paint application and drying

Possible Causes:
• Shaking a partially filled can of paint.
• Use of low quality paint or very old latex paint.
• Applying (especially rolling) paint too rapidly.
• Excessive rolling or brushing of the paint.
• Applying a gloss or semi-gloss paint over a porous surface.

Solution:
• Use high quality paints which will allow good flow and appearance
• Avoid excessive rolling or brushing of the paint or using paint that is more than a year old.
• Apply an appropriate sealer or primer before using such paint over a porous surface.
• Problem areas should be sanded before repainting.

Lapping:

Appearance of a denser color or increased gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during paint application.

Possible Causes:
• Failure to maintain a "wet edge" when painting.
• Use of low solids "economy" paint.

Solution:
• Maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint toward the unpainted area and then back into the just-painted
surface. This technique will produce a smooth, uniform appearance. It is also wise to work in manageable-size
areas; plan for interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door or corner. Using a top quality acrylic latex
paint makes it easier to avoid lapping problems because high solids (pigments and binder) content makes lapped
areas less noticeable. Alkyd paints generally have superior wet edge properties.

Mildew:

Black, grey or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or caulk.

Possible Causes:
• Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct sunlight (bathrooms, kitchens, laundry
rooms)
• Use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower quality latex paint.
• Failure to prime wood surface before applying the paint.
• Painting over a substrate/coating on which mildew has not been removed.

Solution:
• Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area: if it is bleached away, the discolorant is
probably mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one
part bleach, three parts water) Rinse thoroughly. Use a top quality latex paint, and clean when necessary with
bleach/detergent solution. Consider installing an exhaust fan in high moisture areas.

Mud Cracking

Deep, irregular crack resembling dried mud in dry paint film.

Possible Causes:
• Paint is applied too thickly, usually over a porous surface.
• Paint is allowed to build up in corners upon application.

Solution:
• Remove coating by scraping and sanding. Prime and repaint using top quality latex paint. Mud-cracked areas can
also be repaired by sanding the surface smooth before repainting with a top quality latex paint. Quality paints have
a higher solids content, which reduces the tendency to mud crack. They also have a very good application and
hiding properties, which minimize the tendency to apply to thick a coat of paint.

Sagging:

Downward "drooping" movement of the paint film immediately after application, resulting in a uneven coating.

Possible Causes:
• Application of a heavy coat of paint.
• Application in excessively humid and/or cool conditions.
• Airless spraying with the gun too close to the substrate being painted.

Solution:
• If paint is still wet, immediately brush out or re-roll to redistribute the excess evenly. If the paint has dried, sand
and reapply a new coat of top quality paint. Correct any unfavorable conditions: Do not thin the paint; avoid cool
or humid conditions; sand glossy surfaces. Paint should be applied at its recommended spread rate are better than
one heavy coat, which can also lead to sagging. Consider removing doors to paint them supported horizontally.

Surfactant Leaching

Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on the surface of a latex paint, typically on a ceiling surface in rooms
that have high humidity (e.g., shower, bathroom, kitchen); may be evident as tan or brown spots or areas, and can
sometimes be glossy, soapy or sticky.

Possible Causes:
• All latex paint formulas will exhibit this tendency to some extent if applied in areas that become humid
(bathrooms, for example), especially in ceiling areas.

Solution:
• Wash the affected area with soap and water, and rinse. Problem may occur once or twice again before leachable
material is completely removed. When paint is applied in a bathroom, it is helpful to have it dry thoroughly before
using the shower. Remove all staining before repainting.

Wrinkling:

A rough, crinkled paint surface, which occurs when uncured paint forms a "skin."

Possible Causes:
• Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based paints).
• Painting during extremely hot weather or cool damp weather, which causes the paint film to dry faster on top than
on the bottom.
• Exposure of uncured paint to high humidity levels.
• Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently cured primer.
• Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax)

Solution:
• Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. If using a primer, allow it to dry completely before applying
top coat. Repaint, (avoiding temperature/humidity extremes), applying an even coat of top quality interior paint.

Poor Print Resistance:

Tendency of paint film to take on the imprint of an object that is placed on it (e.g., a shelf, table, window sill or
countertop with books, dishes and other objects of them).

Possible Causes:
• Use of low quality semi-gloss or gloss paint.
• Putting a painted surface back into use before paint has fully dried.

Solution:
• Use top quality acrylic semi-gloss or gloss latex paint. Low quality latex semi-gloss and gloss paints can have poor
print resistance, especially in warm damp conditions. Acrylic latex paints generally have better print resistance
than vinyl latex paints. Fully cured alkyd paints also have excellent print resistance. Make sure the recommended
"cure" time is allowed for the paint before it is put into service. Cool or humid conditions require more curing time.

Alligatoring:

Patterned cracking in the surface of the paint film resembling the regular scales of an alligator.

Possible Causes:
• Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a more flexible coating, like a latex
primer.
• Application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry.
• Natural aging of oil-based paints as temperatures fluctuate. The constant expansion and contraction results in a loss
of paint film elasticity.

Solution:
Old paint should be completely removed by scraping and sanding the surface; a heat gun can be used to speed
work on large surfaces, but take care to avoid igniting paint/substrate. The surface should be primed with a high
quality latex or oil-based primer, then painted w/ a top quality exterior latex paint

Chalking:

Formation of fine powder on the surface of the paint film during weathering, which can cause color fading.
Although some degree of chalking is a normal, desirable way for a paint film to wear, excessive film erosion can
result in heavy chalking.

Possible Causes:
• Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint.
• Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application.

Solution:
• First remove as much of the chalk residue as possible, using a stiff bristle brush (or wire brush on masonry) and
then rinse thoroughly with a garden hose; or use power washing equipment. Check for any remaining chalk by
running a hand over the surface after it dries. If noticeable chalk is still present, apply a quality oil-based or acrylic
latex primer (or comparable sealer for masonry), then repaint with a quality exterior coating; if little or no chalk
remains and the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.

Dirt Pickup:

Accumulation of dirt, dust particles and/or other debris on the paint film; may resemble mildew.

Possible Causes:
• Use of low quality paint, esp. lower grades of satin/semi-gloss
• Soil splashing onto siding.
• Air pollution, car exhaust and flying dust collecting on house body and horizontal trim.

Solution:
• Wash off all surface dirt before priming and painting. If unsure whether the problem is dirt/mildew, conduct a
simple spot test. Clean off dirt with a scrub brush and detergent solution, followed by a thorough rinsing with a
garden hose. While dirt pickup can't be eliminated entirely, top quality exterior latex paints typically offer superior
dirt pickup resistance & washability. Also, higher gloss paints are more resistant to dirt pickup than flat paints,
which are more porous and can more easily entrap dirt.

Efflorescence/Mottling:

Crusty, white salt deposits, leached from mortar or masonry as water passes through it.

Possible Causes:
• Failure to adequately prepare surface by removing all previous efflorescence.
• Excess moisture escaping through the exterior masonry walls from the inside.

Solution:
• Eliminate the source of excessive moisture by repairing the roof, cleaning out gutters & downspouts, & sealing any
cracks in the masonry. If moist air is originating inside the building, consider installing vents/exhaust fans, esp in
kitchen, bathroom & laundry areas. Remove the efflorescence & all loose material w/ a wire brush; then
thoroughly rinse the surface. Apply a quality water-based or solvent-based masonry sealer and allow it to dry
completely; then apply a coat of top quality exterior paint or elastomeric wall covering.

Frosting:

A white, salt-like substance on the paint surface. Can occur on any paint color, but it is less noticeable on
white paint or light tints. On masonry, it can be mistakes for efflorescence

Possible Causes:
• Forms mostly in protected areas (such as under eaves and on open porch ceilings) that do not receive the cleansing
action of rain, dew and other moisture.
• Use of dark-colored paints
• Application of a dark-colored paint over a paint or primer containing calcium carbonate extender.

Solution:
• Frosting can be a stubborn problem & cannot be washed off readily. The condition can recur even as a bleedthrough
when a new top coat is applied. In extreme cases, it can interfere with adhesion. The best remedy is
removing frosting by wirebrushing masonry/sanding wood surfaces; rinse, then apply a alkyd-based primer before
adding a coat of high quality exterior paint

Paint Incompatibility:

Loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint received a latex top coat.

Possible Causes:
• Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint may cause the old
paint to "lift off" the substrate.

Solution:
• Repaint using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint. Or completely remove the existing paint and prepare the
surface-cleaning, sanding and spot-priming where necessary- before repainting with a top latex exterior paint.

Peeling:

Loss of paint due to poor adhesion. Where there is a primer and top coat, or multiple coats of paint, peeling may
involve some or all coats.

Possible Causes:
• Seepage of moisture through uncaulked joints, worn caulk or leaks in roof or walls.
• Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls (more likely if paint is oil-based).
• Inadequate surface preparation.
• Use of lower quality paint.
• Applying an oil-based paint over a wet surface.
• Earlier blistering of paint.

Solution:
• Try to identify and eliminate cause of moisture. Prepare surface by removing all loose paint with scraper or wire
brush, sand rough surfaces, prime bare wood. Repaint with a top quality acrylic latex exterior paint for best
adhesion and water resistance.

Poor Alkali Resistance

Color loss and overall determination of paint film on fresh masonry.

Possible Causes:
• Oil-based paint or vinyl acrylic latex paint was applied to new masonry that has not cured for a full year. Fresh
masonry is likely to contain lime, which is very alkaline. Until the lime has a chance to react with carbon dioxide
from the air, the alkalinity of the masonry remains so high that it can attack the integrity of all paint film.

Solution:
• Allow masonry surfaces to cure for at least 30 days, and ideally for a full year, before painting. If this is not
possible, the painter should apply a quality, alkali-resistant sealer or latex primer, followed by a top quality 100
percent acrylic latex exterior paint. The acrylic binder in these paints resists alkali attack.

Poor Galvanized Metal Adhesion:

Paint that has lost its adhesion to a galvanized metal substrate.

Possible Causes:
• Improper surface preparation, such as inadequate rust removal.
• Failure to apply a primer before application of an oil-based or vinyl latex paint.
• Failure to sand baked-on enamel finishes or glossy surfaces before painting.

Solution:
• Any rust on the metal should be removed with a wire brush; then an acrylic latex corrosion-resistant primer should
be applied before applying an oil-based or vinyl latex top coat.

Poor Gloss Retention:

Deterioration of the paint film, resulting in excessive or rapid loss of luster of the top coat.

Possible Causes:
• Use of an interior paint outdoors.
• Use of a lower quality paint.
• Use of a gloss alkyd/oil-based paint in areas of direct sunlight.

Solution:
• Direct sunshine can degrade the binder and pigment of a paint, causing it to chalk and lose its gloss. While all
types of paint will lose some degree of luster over time, lower quality paints will generally lose gloss much earlier
that better grades. The binder in top quality acrylic latex paint is especially resistant to UV radiation, while oil &
alkyd binders actually absorb the radiation, causing the binders to break down. Surface preparation for a coating
showing poor gloss retention should be similar to that used in chalking surfaces.

Vinyl Siding Warp:

Warping or buckling of vinyl siding panels that have been repainted.

Possible Causes:
• Most likely cause is that vinyl siding was painted with a darker color paint than the original color. Dark paint
tends to absorb the heat of the sun, transferring it to the substrate

Solution:
• Paint vinyl siding in a shade no darker than the original. Whites, off whites, pastels and other very light colors are
good choices. Top quality acrylic latex paint is the best type of paint to use on vinyl siding, because the superior
flexibility of the paint film enables it to withstand the stress of expansion and contraction cycles caused by outdoor
temperature changes.

Wrinkling:

A rough, crinkled paint surface occurring when paint forms a "skin."

Possible Causes:
• Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based paints)
• Painting a hot surface or in very hot weather.
• Exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog/high humidity levels
• Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently cured previous coat.
• Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax)

Solution:
• Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. Repaint, applying an even coat of top quality exterior
paint. Make sure the first coat or primer is dry before applying the top coat. Apply paints at the manufacturer's
recommended spread rate. When painting during extremely hot, cool/damp weather, allow extra time for the paint
to dry completely.