Textiles Exam pt 2

Characteristics of Fancy Weaves

• Design is produced at the same time as the fabric is woven

• More expensive 

• More permanent designs than applied designs

• Specialized looms required 

• Color fading/fastening 

• Elevating basic need

Characteristics of Dobby Fabrics

• Less than 25 diff warp yarn arrangements

• Design contains simple, small geometric forms and motifs

• Use of computers or punch cards

• Ex. generic dobby fabrics, waffle cloth/honeycomb (floats get smaller in the middle of the square/pyramid), white on white

What are 3 types of dobby weaves?

pique, extra yarn, momie

Extra Yarn Weave: 

• Additional warp/weft of different colors or types to create a pattern, cut or uncut (see it in the back)

• Ex. eyelash (most common), dotted swiss (aka swivel dot)

Pique Weave:

• From the French word quilted 

• Fabrics with ridges, wales, or cords held up by floats/stuffer yarns on the back to make a lifted pattern

• When stuffer yarns removed, fabric flattens 

• Ex. Bedford cord, pique (pinwale, wide wale, etc.), birds eye, bullseye

Momie Weave

• • Aka crepe or granite weave

  • Made with dobby attachment

  • Irregular interlacing pattern, random floats

  • Grainy look and feel

  • Ex. Sand Crepe, Granite cloth, moss crepe, bark cloth, crepe

Jacquard Weave:

• Large-figured and elaborate designs

• More than 25 arrangements of warp to produce design

• Use of computers or punched cards

Damask vs. Brocade vs True Tapestry

• Damask (1-2 colors, different construction),

• Brocade (multiple colors and different constructions),

• True Tapestry (multiple colors but same construction)

Double Cloth/Weaves

• Fabrics woven with 3, 4, 5 sets of yarns

Double Cloth:

• 5 sets of yarn: 2 woven fabrics (2 warps and 2 wefts) and the 5th set is a binder 

• Face and back can differ

• CAN SEPARATE

Double Weave:

• 4 sets of yarn

• 2 cloths interwoven (2 warps and 2 wefts)

• CANNOT SEPARATE

• Creates pockets 

• Ex. Pocket cloth and Matelasse

Which double can separate?

double CLOTH

Leno Weave:

• 2 warps twisted in figure 8 shape to lock the filling yarn in place

• Ex. leno fabric, marquisette, casement cloth, mosquito netting, fruit packaging, lightweight summer apparel

• Note: leno is also a type of selvage and its used for pipe cleaners

Pile Weaves

• 3D woven fabric made with an additional warp or filling yarns set that creates the pile (raised surface)

• Filling and Warp

Filling/Weft Pile Fabrics

• Corduroy and Velveteen

• Ridges, can see the lines on the back

• Cut (and brushed) to make fuzziness, uncut creates loops

Warp Pile Fabrics

• 3rd (pile) yarn set is warp; cut, uncut or a combination of both

• Woven as 2 fabrics and then separated 

• W and V interlacing

• Ex. Velvet, Frieze, Terry Cloth 

Slack Tension Weave:

• Warp is slack in bands to give puckered areas in stripes 

• Mainly used for seersucker fabric

• Slack tension warp yarns are longer in the unraveled portion

True Tapestry

• Discontinuous filling yarns to create patterns with color changes or texture 

• Made by hand, Have warp and weft inserted in different areas  

Narrow Fancy Weave Fabrics: 

• Woven elastics and trims

• Used for apparel, interiors, and technical goods

Extra Note!

Different weaves used for unconventional things like buildings and cars

Knits vs. Wovens

• Knitting fabrics is interlooping yarns\

• Weaving fabrics is interlacing yarns

Knitting

 fabrication in which needles are used to form a sense of interlooping loops from one or from more yarns or sets of yarns

Characteristics of Knitting

• Cheaper to produce than wovens 

• Requires more and higher quality yarn than woven fabrics

• Easier/quicker to change fabric designs 

• Known for comfort and ease of fit

• Better wrinkle recovery 

• Bulky = good insulation, warmer

• Shrink more and stretch out more

• Knit stitch has head, leg, foot

Examples of technical textiles (that use knitting)

• Wire and conductive fabrics, medical, upholstery and support fabrics, composite fabrics, sport and performance 

What are the 2 types of knitting machines?

• flat and circular 

Flat Knitting Machines: 

• Produces flat fabric, both warp and weft knit

Circular Knitting Machines

• Predominantly weft knits, produce tubular fabric, faster than flat knitting machine

• Used for apparel and for cut and sew items

• Skew potential is greater

Stitch

loop of yarn formed by the knitting process

Gage/Gauge

density of knitting machine needles, and the number of knitting needles per square inch

What kind of system is Gage/Gauge?

• Indirect system: the smaller the number the coarser; the bigger the number the finer

Courses

series of successive loops laying crosswise in the fabrics (like weft)

Wales

loops from vertical ribs/columns - parallel to selvage lengthwise (like warp)

How is fabric density defined?

 by counting the number of stitches, not yarn, in a specific direction

wpi= wales per inch            cpi=courses per inch                     wpiXcpi= fabric density

What is shown on the techinical face and back?

face: legs

back: heads

qualities of knit:

• Snagging, skew common, potential to run 

What are the methods of knitting?

• Filling or weft knitting: yarn horizontally (back and forth) or around the fabric

• Warp knitting: yarn vertically in the fabric

Filling (weft) Knit Stitches:

• Can be created by hand or machine

• Flat bed or circular machine types 

• Wales on front 

• Courses on back 

What are the 4 types of weft stitches?

• • Knit stitch: shows legs 

  • Missed stitch: float 

  • Purl stitch: shows head

  • Tuck stitch: holes

Machine Knitting Steps

loop pulling, running, clearing, yarn feeding, knock-over

Purl Stitch

• Looks the same front and back

• Seldom use because its expensive

• Like the technical back of knit stitch 

Float Stitch

• Used to create patterns or change colors 

• Prone to snagging 

• Reduces stretch of the fabric 

• Yarn floats across wale

Tuck Stitch

• Used to create pattern and textured effects

• ID by open lay areas, bubbled areas, puckered areas

• Old stitch stays on needle in forming a new stitch 

• Reduces the stretch of the fabric (looks like holes)

Simple Filling Knits

• Jersey: 2 diff sides, tendency to curl, more elastic in the horizontal than vertical 

• Stockinette

Fancy Single Filling Knits

• Jacquard jersey

• Patterned Jersey

• Intarsia

• Pile Filling Yarn/Pile Knit Jersey

• Sliver Knit/fake Fur

• Weft Insertion Jersey

Jacquard jersey

• created using jacquard attachment on a circular knitting machine

• smaller designs with color changes

Patterned Jersey

• due to combining knit, tuck, and or floats 

  • Rolling tendency on the edges

  • Light weight jacquard, knitted on one needle bed

  • Stitches on the face sides of fabric, floats on reverse side

  • Suitable for knit and wear technology 

Intarsia

• Jersey equivalent to true tapestry weave 

• Yarn knit in only where color/textured desired in pattern

Pile Filling Yarn/Pile Knit Jersey 

• Created on a circular machine

• Cut and uncut pile with 2 yarn sets

• Sliver knit or fake fur: 

• Yarns form ground and sliver forms pile 

Weft insertion Jersey: 

• Large novelty irregular yarns laid in courses for texture, weight, appearance 

• Brushed or unbrushed 

• French terry, fleece

• Fleece: technical face with knit and laid in yarn 

• Napped= fuzzy

Weave In:

• an inlay thread inserted in the stitch rows but nit knitted 

1. Inlay thread carried out by inlay yarn carrier 

2. Yarn carrier runs ahead the system - yarn only inserted, no knit

3. Weave-in presser foot presses down between needle beds

4. Inlay thread enclosed by stitches 

End uses: (for weave in? or maybe for all single weft knits?)

• End uses: sheets, sweaters, t-shirts, underwear, dresses, hosiery 

Types of Double Filling knits

Rib Knit, Interlock, Jacquard Double Knit, Purl

Double Filling Knits:

• Made with 2 sets of needles

• Gaiting: arrangement of needles (in a circular knitting machine?) 

• May use 2 or more sets of yarns

• Rib knit, interlock, jacquard double knit, purl

• does not curl

Rib Knits

• Simple type 1x1 rib

• Reversible sides 

• More elastic than jersey

• Edges don't curl

• Used for cuffs, hems, collars, knit hats, necklines, bottom edges of sweaters

• 2x1 rib - 2 stitches opposite to 1 empty needle

• 2x2 rib - 2 stitches opposite to 2 empty needles

Interlock

• Doesn’t curl or run

• Both sides look like face of jersey 

• 2, 1x1 ribs interlocked 

• used for high quality leggings

Double Knit/Jacquard Double Knit

• 2 or more yarn sets create a pattern

  • Jacquard double knit

  • Structural designs controlled by each needle (can see the inverse colors on “technical back” 

Warp Knitting characteristics

• 2nd major category of knit fabrics 

• Characterized by vertical loops

• Requires very regular yarns

• Fast process

• Controlled by guides

• Connections of stitches are diagonals

• More stable than weft knits (like wovens but stretches) and stable in both directions

• Flexible (like filling knits)

• Less resilient and lighter weight compared to filling knits

What is a point paper diagram?

each point shows a needle in a course; each row shows a different course 

What does the number of guide bars indicate?

• the number of yarn sets and fabric name (ex. two-bar tricot)

What are the two types of knitting machines for warp knits:

Tricot and Raschel

What type of fabric is made with warp knit machines?

mesh and lace-type fabrics

What are the types of tricot?

• Tricot

• Brushed/napped tricot

• Warp knit velour (tracksuits)

• Satin Tricot (stretchy but imitates satin pretty well)

• Tulle

Tricot characteristics

• Use even yarns, most likely filament yarns in finer gauge (big #)

• Doesn’t unravel normally like a weft knit would

• Good elasticity - best of the warp knits

• Inexpensive and quick to produce 

• Good air and water permeability 

• Soft

• Crease resistant 

• Good drapability 

• Popular for sports uniforms

• Polyester 

Types of Raschel Knits:

• Raschel knit 

• Carpet

• Net

• Lace: made very fast at low cost; always a geometric base fabric

• Thermal Cloth

• Power Net

• Warp-insertion warp knit 

• Warp-and-weft insertion warp knit

Raschel Knit Characteristics:

• Often spun yarns

• Coarser gauge/heavier yarns

• Elaborate or complex patterns that creates open spaces

What are the two ways of shaping knits?

Full fashioning and mock fashioning

What is full fashioning and its characteristics?

• shaping garments or parts by adding or decreasing wales/parts planned for specific parts of garments

  • Seen at necklines, armholes, collar points

  • Usually jersey 

  • Expensive 

  • Slow 

  • Mainly for mass production 

  • Very little waste (when perfectly planned and not as much waste as wovens)

  • Linking required 

  • High quality 

  • Labor intensive 

What is mock fashioning?

• Do not shape the garment - knit fabric cut and sewn

• Topstitched to add the allusion of full fashioning

Filling Knit vs. Warp Knit Yarn movements:

 Horizontal; vertically

Filling Knit vs. Warp Knit Connections

 Horizontal; diagonal

Filling Knit vs. Warp Knit Production Rate:

lower bc only 1 yarn from side to side;

higher because multiple needles knitting at the same time

Filling Knit vs. Warp Knit Process:

hand and machine (flat and circular); machine only (flat) 

Filling Knit vs. Warp Knit Production:

 yardage, garments, garment parts; yardage only

Environmental Impacts of Knitting:

• Less than for weaving

• Less use of chemicals to prepare yarns

• No equivalent of water or air jet looms

• Quieter than shuttle looms

• Less lint

• Less energy use

Social Impact:

• Excessive hours

• Uncomfortable conditions 

• Child labor

• Family income (I think families rely on garment factory jobs for income)