Milady Cosmetology Chapter 18: Facials

Alipidic

Lack of lipids. Describes skin that does not produce enough sebum, indicated by the absence of visible pores.

Alginate

Seaweed based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and they dry to form a rubberized texture.

Ampoules

Individual doses of serum, sealed in small vials.

Aromatherapy

The therapeutic use of plant aromas for beauty and health treatment.

Chemical exfoliant

Product containing chemicals that either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup.

Clay-based mask

oil-absorbing cleansing mask that have an exfoliating effect and an astringent effect on oily and combination skin, making large pores temporarily appearing smaller.

Cleansing milk

Non-foaming lotion cleansers designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin types and removing makeup.

Comedo

Mass of hardened sebum and skin cells in a hair follicle.

Contraindication

Condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.

Cream mask

Mask often containing oils and emollients as well as humectants. Have a strong moisturizing effect.

Electrotherapy

The use of electrical currents to treat the skin.

Emollients

Oil or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin.

Enzymes

Also known as keratolytic enzymes or protein-dissolving agents. A type of chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin.

Exfoliants

Products that help bring about exfoliation

Exfoliation

The removal of excess dead cells from the skin’s surface

Extraction

A procedure in which comedones are removed from the follicles using manual manipulation

Facial

A professional skin treatment that improves the condition and appearance of the skin.

Facial steamer

A facial machine that heats and produces a stream that can be focused on the client’s face or other areas of the skin.

Friction

Invigorating rubbing movement requiring pressure on the skin with the fingers or palms while moving them over an underlying structure.

Gommages

Also known as roll-off masks. Peeling creams that are rubbed off the skin.

Humectants

Also known as hydrators or water-binding agents. Ingredients that attract water.

Magnifying lamps

Lamps with a magnifying lens surrounded by a circular light, providing well-lit, enlarged view of the skin.

Masks

Concentrated treatment products often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleans, tone, hydrate and nourish the skin.

Massage

Manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain.

Massage products

Lubricants used to make the skin slippery during a massage

Mechanical exfoliants

Methods used to physically remove dead cell buildup.

Microdermabrasion

Mechanical exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at the skin with a hand-held device that exfoliates dead skin cells.

Moisturizers

Products that help increase the moisture content of the skin surface

Motor point

Point on the skin over the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that muscle

Paraffin wax masks

specifically prepared facial masks containing paraffin and other beneficial ingredients. Typically used with treatment cream

Pestrissage

Kneading movement preformed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing tissue with light, firm pressure.

Rotary brush

Also known as facial brush or brushing machine. A rotating electrical application with interchangeable brushes that can be attached to the rotating head

Serums

Concentrated products that generally contain higher concentration of ingredients designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions.

Tapotement

Also known as percussion. Movements in which the fingertips strike the skin in rapid succession or fast tapping movements.

Treatment cream

A specialty product designed to facilitate change in the skin’s appearance

Vibration

The rapid shaking movement in which the balls of the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application in a massage

Wood’s lamp

Uses black light to make flouresce. Specific fluorescent colors pinpoint skin conditions, pigment disorders, and certain bacteria and fungi presence

Skin scope

assesses skin using two light modes. Stimulated daylight reveals visible concerns. LED-UV light identifies underlying issues.

Digital skin analysis system

Detects and maps sun damage. Determines pore size in sections. Detects amount of sebum in pores. Identifies hyperpigmentation and inflammation. Detects bacterial and fungal infections. Analysis skin aging issues. Pinpoints presence and severity of acne and other conditions on or below the skin’s surface. Also determines client’s skin type.

Skin moisture analyzer

Analyzes and calculates moisture levels in the skin in multiple zones. Clearly defines the needs in each area.

Hot towel cabinets

Heats damp or dry towels Should be equipped with a UV sterilizing unit to prevent the proliferation of molds, bacteria, and viruses.

Ozone facial steamers

Dispense a fine mist of steam and ozone (O₃). Proven to oxygenate the skin’s cutaneous layer. Has germicidal and bacterial capabilities

Waxing units

Electric machines that warm wax to the proper temperature, are used for hair removal.

Skin type

A classification that describes a person’s genetic attributes

Normal skin type

Even pore distribution throughout the face. Very soft-smooth surface, lacks fine lines and wrinkles. Has no greasy areas or flakey skin. Few (if any) blemishes.

Dry skin type

Pores are very small or not visible to the naked eye. Skin appears dull and flaky, feels rough, thin, and fight to the touch. Skin denydrates easily due to poor sebum production. Accentuates fine lines and wrinkles. May lack elasticity not related to aging.

Oily skin type

Excessive lipid production. Shiny skin, large pores. Skin appears thick and rough. Sometimes has a waxy or yellowish appearance. Prone to blackheads (open comedones), papules, pustules, prone to acne. Can develop seborrhea (condition triggered by excess sebum).

Combination skin type

Wider distribution of obvious or large pores in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin). Pores become smaller towards the edges of the face.

Factors affecting skin condition

Diet, stress, poor lifestyle choices, hormones, aging, vitamin deficiencies, pollution, poor skin hygiene, UV exposure.

Foaming cleanser

Cream or gel consistency with surfactants (detergents). Lightweight foam created when massaged on damp skin. Formulations available for normal to combination and oily skin types, and acne-prone skin.

Cleansing cream

Rich water-in-oil emulsion used primarily to dissolve makeup and dirt. Suitable for very dry to mature skin.

Cleansing lotion

Light emulsion suitable for normal to dry skin types. Does not strip skin’s natural oil or pH balance.

Cleansing oil

Suitable for all skin types. Contains beneficial oils that breakdown makeup, dirt, excess sebum, and pollutants.

Cleansing water

Made of microscopic oil molecules (micelles) suspended in purified water. Cleanses, tones, and conditions, skin. Formulated for all skin types.

Oily skin moisturizers

Most often in lotion form and generally contain smaller amounts of emollients.

Dry skin moisturizers

Are often oil-based moisturizers in the form of a heavier cream. They contain more emollients.

Gel masks

Can be used for sensitive or dehydrated skin, they do not dry hard. Contain hydrators and soothing ingredients to help plump surface cells with moisture, making the skin look more supple and hydrated.

Sheet masks

Available as a single packaged moist or freeze-dried sheet.

Modelage masks

self-heating masks that harden as they dry on the skin. Treatment serums or creams are applied to the face first, followed by the mask application for enhanced product penetration.

Enzyme masks

Either powder mixed with warm water to form a paste or gel, or premixed with the same consistencies. Does not that dry skin. They make the skin look healthier and more polished. Recommended for most skin types but check the client for any citrus allergies.

Sunscreen

Protection products that absorb, scatter, or reflect UV rays before they interact with the skin.

Galvanic current

Used when the treatment goal is to prepare the skin for extractions or assist in delivering targeted products into the skin. Accomplishes desincrustation and iontophoresis.

Micro current

Type of galvanic treatment using a low level of electrical current that mimics the way the brain relays messages to the muscles. Best known for toning the skin, producing a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity.

High-frequency current

Discovered by Nikola Tesla. Works by warming tissues and can be used to stimulate blood flow and oxygenate the skin. Can also be applied after extraction or during treatments for acne-prone skin because it has a germicidal effect. They only use one electrode.

Light therapy

Uses light exposure to treat skin conditions.

Red light

Light that treats aging and redness

Blue light

Light that is for acne prone skin.

Yellow light

Light that reduces inflammation and improves lymphatic flow.

Green light

Light that calms and soothes, also lessens hyperpigmentation

Contraindications for facial service

• Isotretinoin (Accutane) if taken in the last 6 months

• Exfoliating drugs

• Pregnancy

• Metal bone pins or plates in the body

• Heart conditions / pacemaker

• Known allergies

• Seizures or epilepsy

• Use of oral steroids

• Autoimmune diseases

• Diabetes

• Blood thinners

• Sensitive, redness prone skin

• Open sores, herpes simplex

• Recent facial surgery or laser treatment

Preservative treatments

Maintains facial skin health by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating skin glands and metabolism through massage.

Corrective treatment

Corrects certain facial conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and minor acne conditions.