Milady Skin Care Products

Performance Ingredients

Ingredients that do the actual work of cleansing, normalizing, moisturizing, or otherwise treating the skin.

Cause actual changes in appearance of skin

AKA active ingredients

Phytotherapy

Therapeutic benefits from plants

Season or activities

Reasons why a person's skin care needs change

Cosmetic act of 1938

How the fda views cosmetics

Cosmetics

Articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness of altering the appearance

Functional ingredients

Majority of a product. Allow products to spread, give them body and texture and give a specific form i.e. Cream, lotion or gel. Do not affect appearance of the skin but are necessary in product formulation. Ex. Preservative

Glycerin

Hydrates skin surface

AHAs

Exfoliate the corneum

Lipids

Help patch the skin's barrier

Cosmeceuticals

Products intended to improve the skin's health and appearance. Have stronger performance ingredients that may cause biochemical reactions and physiological effects to the skin. Not yet recognized by FDA

Hypoallergenic

Ingredients that may be less likely to cause allergic reaction

Noncomedogenic

Ingredients that will not clog pores or cause comedones

Anhydrous

Products that do not contain any water

Designed for dry skin

Emollients

Fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize skin

In loose powder help to slip evenly across and adhere to skin

Occlusion

Moisturizing technique in which emollients lie on top of skin and prevent dehydration by trapping water and decreasing tewl

Mineral oil

Come from the earth, specifically from petroleum sources. Offer excellent protection against dehydration and helps prevent irritant skin contact.

Lubricants

Coat the skin and reduce friction

Fatty acids

beneficial for skin that does not produce enough sebum.

Lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.

Ex. Oleic acid, stearic acid, and caprylic acid

Coconut and palm oil

Two of the fattiest and heaviest oils

Fatty alcohols

Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.

Not drying

Wax-like consistency and are used as emollients or spreading agents

Ex. Cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol

Fatty esters

Produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols

Almost always end in -ate

Ex. Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate

Silicones

Group of oils chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin

Helps to keep moisture in skin yet allow oxygen in and out of the follicles

Ex dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone

Comedogenicity

Tendency of any topical substance to cause or worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle, leading to comedones

Surfactants

Reduce the surface tension between skin and product and increase the spreadability of cosmetic products

Ex detergents and emulsifiers

Detergents

Main type of surfactant used in skin-cleansing products. They reduce the surface tension of dirt and oil on the skin's surface and form an emulsion to lift them from the skin. Used primarily in cleansing products

Cleansers

Soaps and/or detergents that clean the skin

Emulsifiers

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix to form an emulsion

Oil soluble

Materials that are compatible with oil and mixed in with oil

Water soluble

Substances that are mixable with water

Gellants

Agents that are used to give a product a gel-like consistency

Carbomers

Used to thicken creams and are frequently used in gel products

Fragrances

Come from plant, animal or synthetic sources to give products their scent

Aromatherapy

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes

Ancient healing practice using essential oils and aromas from plants to treat the body mind and spirit

Essential oils

Highly concentrated plant oils with properties that have various effects on the skin

Used to relax, stimulate or balance the psyche

Preservatives

Prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product

Chelating agent

Chemical that is added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

Work by breaking down cell walls of bacteria and other microorganisms

Ex disodium edta, trisodium edta, tetrasodium edta

EDTA

Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid

Antioxidants

Substances that inhibit oxidation reactions

Help the condition of the skin by combating free radicals and stopping the oxidation that causes products to spoil or turn rancid

Ex ascorbic acid, bha, bht and tocopherol

Color agents

In skin care products they add color

In cosmetic products they are responsible for most of the products cosmetic effects

FDA monitors very closely

Colorants

Vegetable, pigment or mineral dyes that give products color

Certified colors

Synthetic, inorganic, known as metal salts. Have been batch certified and approved by the FDA

Noncertified colors

Organic compounds from animal or plant extracts and can also be natural mineral pigments

Less irritating than certified colors

Lakes

Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material and are commonly used in colorful cosmetics

Exempt colors

Do not require certification

Less intense in color than certified colors

Includes zinc oxide, iron oxides, carmine, mica, and ultramarine colors

pH adjusters

Acids or alkalis used to adjust the pH of products

Ex sodium hydroxide, citric acid

Solvents

Substances such as water or alcohol that dissolve other ingredients

Botanicals

Ingredients derived from plants

Healing agents

Substances such as chamomile, licorice, azulene, and aloe that heal skin

Hydrators, humectants, hydrophilic agents

Ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface

Lock water on skin to reduce dehydration

Lipids

Used to improve hydration, plumpness and smoothness of the skin

Can reduce skin sensitivity by making skin more resistant to irritants and dehydration

Found naturally in the intracellular matrix and known to improve the barrier function

Exfoliation

Removal of dead corneum cells on the epidermis, improves skin's appearance

Exfoliants

Mechanical and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin

Enzymes

Used in exfoliating products to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer smoother and help maintain hydration of the epidermis

Delivery systems

Chemical systems that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis

ex. Vehicles, liposomes, and polymers

Vehicles

Spreading agents and carrying bases necessary to the formulation of a cosmetic

Carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

Liposomes

Closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to a specific area of the skin and control their release

Polymers

Chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules

Used as advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controller rate

AKA microsponges

Polyglucans and beta-glucans

Used to enhance the skin's defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism

Normally derived from yeast cells and have a natural affinity for the skin

Polyglucans

Hydrophilic, preserve hydration, collagen and elastin by forming a protective film on the skin

Beta-glucans

Help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

TRF

Tissue respiratory factor

Derived from yeast cells

Functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient

Stem cells

Being derived from plants to protect our stimulate our own skin stem cells for health and anti-aging benefits

EGF

Epidermal growth factor

Stimulates cell division and is used for healing wounds or burns

Peptides

Chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in skin's appearance

Help aging skin by improving tissue repair and skin functions such as cell and fibroblast activity

Glycoproteins

Yeast derivative

Enhances immune response and cellular metabolism which boosts oxygen uptake in the cell. Strengthens the skins natural ability to protect itself against damaging environmental influences

Retinol

Natural form of vitamin a

Stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells

Keratolytic

Causes sloughing or exfoliating of skin cells

Used for acne, Sun-damaged skin and wrinkles

Vitamin c

Water-soluble antioxidant. Strengthens white blood cells and immune system and is essential for producing collagen

Ester vitamin c

Joined by a chemical ester bond with a fatty acid derived from Palm oil

Oil-soluble and absorbed into the skin easily. Highly stable and maintains effectiveness when mixed with other ingredients. Stimulates fibroblasts and cell metabolism.

Alpha lipid acid

Natural molecule found in every cell in the body

Powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

Increases cellular metabolism and the effects of other antioxidants

anti-inflammatory and reduces redness

DMAE

antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes

Boosts effects of other antioxidants

Increases chemicals that control muscle tone to improve appearance of sagging skin

Coenzyme q10

Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes Skin cells

Strengthens capillary network and increases energy to epidermal cells

Results in visible reduction of wrinkles and fine lines

Chemical sunscreens

Organic compounds that chemically absorb uv radiation

Physical sunscreens

Inorganic compounds that physically reflect or scatter uv radiation

Sun protection factor (spf)

Ability of a product to delay Sun-induced erythema

Based on the UVB protection, exposure time,Sun's intensity, skin type, product application etc

Organic chemical sunscreens

Octinoxate, octisalate, oxybenzone

Inorganic physical sunscreens

Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide

Hyaluronic acid

A hydrophilic agent with excellent water binding properties

Benzyl peroxide

A drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne. Can be a skin allergen and irritant

Parabens

One of the most frequently used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries

Provide antibacterial and antifungal activity against a diverse number of organisms

Health debates as to whether they accumulate in the body and disrupt hormones

Quaternium 15

All purpose preservative active against bacteria mold and yeast

Greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives

May cause dermatitis and allergens

Algae

Derived from seaweed, contains minerals

Moisturizing,

Olfactory system

Gives us our sense of smell

Green tea

Excellent everyday source of help for microcirculation problems. One of the best antioxidants available, provides effective lipid protection, antibacterial, anti irritant, provides uv protection

Vitamin k

Helpful for clients with telengiectasia and spider veins

WAter

Most frequently used cosmetic ingredient

WAter as a vehicle

Keeps other ingredients in solution and spread products across skin

Water as a performer

Replenish moisture on surface of the skin

Gommage

Roll off mask, massaged or rolled off of the skin

Benefits of masks

Tone, tighten, draw impurities out, hydrate/nourish, calm/soothe

Clay masks

Draw out impurities to surface of skin

Modelage masks

Thermal masks, contains gypsum crystals a plaster like ingredient, as mask sets up the temperature gradually increases