Coastal Energy and Waves

Flashcards covering sources of energy at the coast, factors affecting wave energy, and characteristics of constructive waves based on lecture notes.

What is wind?

The movement of air from one place to another, moving from high pressure to low pressure.

What determines the speed or strength of the wind?

The greater the atmospheric pressure difference (pressure gradient) between two places.

From which direction do the prevailing (dominant) winds in the UK typically come?

The south-west.

How do the prevailing winds in the UK acquire their energy to transfer to waves?

They blow over a broad expanse of the Atlantic Ocean.

How does the strength of the wind affect wave energy?

The stronger the wind, the more powerful waves will become.

How does the duration of the wind affect wave energy?

The longer the wind blows, the more powerful waves will become.

What is 'fetch' in the context of wave energy?

The distance of open water over which the wind blows.

How does the fetch influence the power of waves?

The longer the fetch, the more powerful the waves.

What is the typical frequency of constructive waves?

6-9 times per minute.

Where do constructive waves typically originate?

Distant weather systems generate these waves in the open ocean.

Describe the key characteristics of constructive waves.

They are low, surging waves with a long wavelength, leading to beach gain.

What are the characteristics of swash and backwash for constructive waves?

They have a strong swash and a weak backwash.

What type of beach profile are constructive waves usually associated with?

A gentle beach profile.