FACS 222: FINAL EXAM REVIEW

DESIGN + CONSTRUCTION

bobbin

small round spool of thread that loops with the top thread on the machine when sewing

seam gauge

a 6 inch gauge with a movable indicator used to measure areas that need constant measurement, such as hem widths, pleats and tucks - many have dual metric and imperial scales

universal needle

The most common needle type, suitable for most woven fabrics.

scissors

used to cut paper such as pattern layout papers

beeswax

wax, usually in a holder with grooves. pass the thread through beeswax to strength the thread and reduce tendency to tangle.

seam ripper

small, pointed device with a sharp blade. the point can be used to pick out unwanted stitches - used to cut a row of stitches

ball-point machine needle

rounded point on this needle makes it ideal for use on all types of knits or stretch fabrics.

thimble

a lightweight metal (brass, rubber, or nickel) device with a closed top that snugly fits the middle finer of the sewing hand.

pinking shears

shears that cut a zig zag edge to prevent fabric from fraying and also create a decorative edge on seam allowances - are not used to cut a pattern

pattern layout

The placement of pattern on the fabric, in an economical manner, that is without wasting fabric.

hemming stitch

A decorative drawn thread work or openwork hand-sewing technique for embellishing the hem of clothing or household linens.

grainline

marks the direction of the grain line

stay-stitching

plain machine stitching 1/8 inch inside the stitch line before the garment is assembled.

grade/ grading

Grading is used to increase or decrease a size, based on an average difference between sizes.

easing

method used when one edge of a garment is slightly longer than the matching edge that is to be sewn to it.

bias

a line that lies diagonally across the grain of the fabric.
- true bias is 45-degree anger to any straight edge of the fabric.

selvage

the narrow, firmly woven finish along both lengthwise edges on fabric

-does not ravel

basting

are long temporary stitches made by hand or machine , approximately 6 stitches per inch
-ends are not fastened or backstitched

gathering

to draw up fabric fullness on line of stitching

preshrink

to wash or dry-clean the fabric before cutting out the pieces to prevent shrinkage after the garment is completed

-then it fits at desired state through garment's life

-helps relax fibers of fabric to prevent further shrinking

shank

-device for providing a small amount of space in between a garment and a button.
-Shanks are necessary to provide space for fabric to sit in between the button and the garment when the garment is buttoned.
-Shanks also allow a garment to hang and drape nicely.

dart

is the take up of excess fabric at the edge of a garment converging to a diminishing point

understitching

a row of stitching used to keep the facing or bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight

interfacing

A carefully selected fabric placed between the garment and the facing fabrics for added body, to give support, and maintain shape.

-can be fusible or non fusible

-must be compatible with weight, hand, and stretch of the fashion fabric

nap

a fibrous surface produced by brushing up fibers on the fabric during the finishing process. A one way directional pattern layout is used with the top of all pattern pieces placed in the same direction

-fleece, flannel, sueded fabrics

French seams

a narrow seam within a seam that encloses the raw edges of the fabric so that fraying does not occur
-used in couture and sheer fabrics

purpose of staystitching

used to maintain the original shape of the garment pieces and prevent stretching.

purpose of understitching

this allows the seam to lie flat and keeps the seam edge from showing on the correct side of the garment.

lengthwise

warp

-parallel to the selvage
-run up and down fabric

crosswise

weft

-runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain
-run across the fabri

typical seam allowance

a typical seam allowance is 5/8 inch seam