Essential Notes - Coastal Systems and Landscapes - AQA Geography A-level

What are coastal systems considered to be?

An open system receiving inputs and transferring outputs.

What are sediment cells?

Sections of coast bordered by headlands where sediment movement is contained.

What are the three main input areas for coastal systems?

Marine, Atmosphere, and Humans.

What is meant by dynamic equilibrium in sediment cells?

A state where sediment flows are balanced, though can be upset by human or natural activities.

What are some outputs of the coastal system?

Ocean currents, rip tides, sediment transfer, and evaporation.

Give examples of stores/sinks in coastal systems.

Beaches, sand dunes, spits, bars, cliffs, and salt marshes.

What is the role of energy in the coastal system?

It drives the transfers and flows of sediment.

What process links inputs, outputs, and stores in the coastal system?

Transfers/Flows.

What accounts for the majority of sediment in the coastal zone?

Rivers.

How does cliff erosion predominantly occur?

During winter months due to frequent storms.

What effect does wind have on sediment transport?

It can blow sand along or up a beach, especially in dune areas.

What happens when glaciers calve?

They deposit sediment stored in the ice directly into the ocean.

How does longshore drift affect coastlines?

It moves sediment along the beach, transporting it from one section to another.

What is a sediment budget?

An assessment of gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell.

What is the littoral zone?

The area of land between cliffs or dunes and the offshore area beyond wave influence.

What mainly influences coastal wave formation?

Wind moving across the surface of the water.

What two factors affect wave energy strength?

The strength and duration of the wind.

Differentiate between constructive and destructive waves.

Constructive waves build up beaches; destructive waves erode them.

What is a spring tide?

The highest high tides and lowest low tides occurring when the sun and moon align.

What are rip currents?

Powerful underwater currents close to shore formed when wave buildup is forced back.

What defines high-energy coastlines?

They are characterized by strong waves and frequent destructive wave activity.

What is wave refraction?

The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland.

List the main processes of coastal erosion.

Corrasion, abrasion, hydraulic action, corrosion, wave quarrying.

What is the impact of beach size on coastal erosion rates?

A larger beach can reduce wave energy and erosion.

Define traction in coastal transportation.

Large, heavy sediment rolls along the sea bed pushed by currents.

What occurs during deposition?

Sediment becomes too heavy to be carried by water or wave energy decreases.

What is mechanical weathering?

The physical breakdown of rocks over time.

What is solifluction?

The flow of surface layers over frozen ground in periglacial areas.

How do caves, arches, stacks, and stumps relate to coastal erosion?

They are sequential landforms created by concentrated wave energy at headlands.

What characterizes steep cliffs in coastal environments?

Strong, resistant rock and high energy conditions.

What are the three main input areas for coastal systems?

Marine inputs (waves, tides, ocean currents), atmospheric inputs (winds, weather), and human inputs (construction, tourism, pollution).

How do spits form?

When the coast changes direction and longshore drift deposits material at sea.

Describe the formation of offshore bars.

Sand deposited offshore where waves can’t carry sediment to shore.

What role does vegetation play in coastal stabilization?

Roots bind soil, reduce erosion, and provide protective layers.

What is isostatic change in relation to sea level?

Localized land rise or fall due to tectonic activity or glacial impacts.

What are emergent coastal landforms?

Landforms that are raised relative to sea level.

What influences the rate of coastal erosion during a storm?

The dynamics of wave energy and the material composition of the coastline.

What is the significance of integrated coastal zone management (ICZM)?

A holistic approach to managing coastal systems considering all stakeholders.

What do shoreline management plans (SMPs) focus on?

Identifying activities and strategies for managing each sediment cell.

How do hard engineering methods affect coastal environments?

They can prevent erosion in one area but increase it in another.

What is the primary goal of soft engineering in coastal management?

To work with natural systems to protect against coastal erosion and sea level change.

What is a cost-benefit analysis in coastal management?

Comparing expected costs and benefits before implementing management plans.

What is beach nourishment?

Adding sediment from offshore to build up the existing beach.

Explain dune stabilization.

Planting of vegetation like marram grass to bind sand and reduce erosion.

What is a wave cut notch

Sea attacks the base of the cliff causing it to weaken and collapse

What is a coastal ecosystem?

A dynamic environment where land meets the ocean, characterized by distinct biological communities.

Define barrier islands.

Narrow, elongated sand islands that protect the coast from wave action.

What is an estuary?

A coastal area where freshwater from rivers meets and mixes with saltwater from the ocean.

What role do mangroves play in coastal systems?

They provide habitat, reduce erosion, and act as buffers against storms.

What is the sediment transport process?

The movement of solid particles, such as sand and silt, by wind, water, or ice.

Define coastal wetlands.

Areas where water covers the soil for part of the year, supporting diverse ecosystems.

What is a tidal flat?

A coastal area that is alternately covered and exposed by tides.

Explain wave action.

The movement of waves as they approach the coast, affecting erosion and sediment deposition.

What are coastal lagoons?

Shallow bodies of water separated from the ocean by barrier islands or reefs.

Define littoral drift.

The movement of sediment along a coast due to wave action.

What is a shoreline?

The line where land meets the sea or ocean.

Describe a beach profile.

The cross-sectional view of a beach that shows features like dunes and the shore.

What is sea level rise?

The increase in the average level of the world's oceans due to climate change.

Define offshore drilling.

The extraction of oil and gas from below the ocean floor.

What is pollution in coastal zones?

The introduction of harmful substances or contaminants into ocean waters.

Describe beach erosion.

The loss of beach land due to wave action, currents, or rising sea levels.

What is a coastal reef?

A ridge of rock or coral that provides habitat for marine life and protects shorelines.

Explain the significance of coral reefs.

They support biodiversity, protect coastlines, and are vital to marine ecosystems.

What is ocean acidification?

The decrease in pH levels of the ocean due to increased CO2 absorption.

Define coastal zoning.

The regulation of land use in coastal areas to manage resources and development.

What is shoreline development?

The construction of structures along coastal areas to prevent erosion and manage resources.

Describe the process of longshore transport.

The movement of sediments along the shore driven by wave action.

What is a surf zone?

The area where waves break and move towards the shore.

Define rip tide.

A strong current that pulls away from the shore, posing risks for swimmers.

What is coastal retreat?

The landward migration of the coastline due to erosion or sea level rise.

Describe beach nourishment.

The process of adding sand to a beach to combat erosion.

What are groins?

Structures built out from the shore to interrupt water flow and reduce erosion.

Explain the role of sea oats in coastal ecosystems.

They stabilize sand dunes with their root systems and reduce erosion.

What is the significance of turtle nesting sites?

Critical areas on beaches where sea turtles lay eggs, important for species reproduction.

Define fishing ground.

An area of ocean where fish are caught for commercial or recreational purposes.

What is beach access?

The ability of the public to reach and use beach areas.

Describe the wave base.

The depth in the water column below which the motion of waves is negligible.

What is a subaqueous soil?

Soil found underwater, often composed of sediment and organic materials.

Define marine protected areas (MPAs).

Regions of the ocean where human activity is restricted to protect biodiversity.

What is pollution runoff?

Polluted water flowing into ocean or coastal areas, affecting ecosystems.

Describe the impact of tourism on coastal ecosystems.

Can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and overuse of resources.

What are fisheries management practices?

Regulations and strategies to sustain fish populations and habitats.

Define coastal landforms.

Natural features formed by the processes of erosion, deposition, and sedimentation.

What are salt marshes?

Coastal wetlands regularly flooded by saltwater, supportive of diverse wildlife.

Explain coastal storms.

Severe weather events impacting shorelines, causing erosion and flooding.

What is shoreline armoring?

The use of hard structures like seawalls to protect coastal infrastructure.

Define wave energy.

The energy generated by waves, capable of being harnessed for power.

What is the importance of biodiversity in coastal systems?

Diversity ensures ecosystem resilience and promotes various ecological functions.

Describe the function of sediment traps.

Structures that capture sediment to prevent it from being carried away by currents.

What is an ocean current?

A continuous flow of seawater influenced by wind, temperature, and salinity.

Define algal bloom.

Rapid growth of algae in water, often due to nutrient pollution, causing detrimental effects.

What is the impact of climate change on coastal environments?

Leads to increased erosion, habitat loss, and rising sea levels.

Explain integrated coastal management (ICM).

A holistic approach to managing coastal resources sustainably.

What are soft shorelines?

Coastlines characterized by natural features like beaches and dunes, unlike hardened structures.

Define wetland restoration.

The process of rehabilitating damaged or destroyed wetland areas to restore ecological function.