Chemical Textures

Permanent Waving

Adding wave/curl to the hair.

Chemical Relaxing

Removing curl, leaving hair smooth/wave-free

Curl Reformation

Loosening overly curly hair

Perm Chemical Phase

Applying the chemical

Perm Physical Phase

Wrapping the hair around a hair tool

Croquignole

Rotated around a perm rod from ends to base. Achieves base lift & strong end curl. Best for Shorter to medium lengths.

Spiral

Hair rotated around a perm rod with hair positioned next to one another. Wrapped from base to ends. Elongated texture. Best for medium to longer lengths.

Straight

Same diameter along the perm rod. Uniform curl Pattern

Concave

Narrower in the center and wider at the ends. Tighter curl in the center.

Soft Bender Rods

A type of curling tool used in a perm to create soft waves or curls in hair.

Base Direction

Horizontal, Vertical, Diagonal

On Base Placement

Hair projected 45 degrees above center. Creates the most volume. Can cause breakage due to stress on the hair.

Half-off Base Placement

Hair projected 90 degrees from the center of the base. Medium volume & maximum blending

Off Base Placement

Hair projected 45 degrees below center. Minimal amount of volume

Endothermic

Heat created by an outside heat source. Hooded dryer, Heat lamp, etc

Exothermic

Heat created chemically within the product when mixed

Alkaline Perm

Main Ingredient is Ammonium Thiolycolate. Process without heat. PH 9.0-9.6. causes hair to swell. wrapped without tension. Faster processing 5-10 min. Strong curl pattern. Better for coarse or resistant hair, long hair, and children

Acid Perms

Main ingredient is Glycerol Monothioglycolate. Generally processed with heat. PH 7.8-8.2. causes minimal swelling. wrapped with firm even tension. Slower more controlled processing 10-30 mins Soft, natural curl pattern. Best for fragile or color treated, body wave.

Action of waving lotion

solutions that break the disfulfide bonds(reduction)

Neutralizer

hydrogen peroxide

Blot before Neutralize

Blot in between rods with towel & paper towel

48 Hours After

Client must wait 48 hours before shampooing hair & be careful with styles as it can cause a crease