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Permanent Waving
Adding wave/curl to the hair.
Chemical Relaxing
Removing curl, leaving hair smooth/wave-free
Curl Reformation
Loosening overly curly hair
Perm Chemical Phase
Applying the chemical
Perm Physical Phase
Wrapping the hair around a hair tool
Croquignole
Rotated around a perm rod from ends to base. Achieves base lift & strong end curl. Best for Shorter to medium lengths.
Spiral
Hair rotated around a perm rod with hair positioned next to one another. Wrapped from base to ends. Elongated texture. Best for medium to longer lengths.
Straight
Same diameter along the perm rod. Uniform curl Pattern
Concave
Narrower in the center and wider at the ends. Tighter curl in the center.
Soft Bender Rods
A type of curling tool used in a perm to create soft waves or curls in hair.
Base Direction
Horizontal, Vertical, Diagonal
On Base Placement
Hair projected 45 degrees above center. Creates the most volume. Can cause breakage due to stress on the hair.
Half-off Base Placement
Hair projected 90 degrees from the center of the base. Medium volume & maximum blending
Off Base Placement
Hair projected 45 degrees below center. Minimal amount of volume
Endothermic
Heat created by an outside heat source. Hooded dryer, Heat lamp, etc
Exothermic
Heat created chemically within the product when mixed
Alkaline Perm
Main Ingredient is Ammonium Thiolycolate. Process without heat. PH 9.0-9.6. causes hair to swell. wrapped without tension. Faster processing 5-10 min. Strong curl pattern. Better for coarse or resistant hair, long hair, and children
Acid Perms
Main ingredient is Glycerol Monothioglycolate. Generally processed with heat. PH 7.8-8.2. causes minimal swelling. wrapped with firm even tension. Slower more controlled processing 10-30 mins Soft, natural curl pattern. Best for fragile or color treated, body wave.
Action of waving lotion
solutions that break the disfulfide bonds(reduction)
Neutralizer
hydrogen peroxide
Blot before Neutralize
Blot in between rods with towel & paper towel
48 Hours After
Client must wait 48 hours before shampooing hair & be careful with styles as it can cause a crease
