Types of Cosmetic Products and Their Preparation

- Livy

outicle

consists of multiple layers of keratin, flattened cells

cortex

strengths elasticity & airlines; melanin or pheomelanin

Disulfide bonds

bonds present in the keratin

Shampoo

Surfactant-based preparations, removal of dirt from the hair (emulsification)

Surfactants

an active ing. aid in cleaning and foaming by reducing the surface tension between two phases, it is also a foam boosters and foam stabilizers.

Anionic surfactant

a type of surfactant; it has good cleansing properties, effective at alkaline conditions, it forms complexes with cationic surfactants, and reacts with salt in formulation.

Anionic surfactant

its examples are Alkyl sulfate (lauryl sulfates: sodium lauryl sulfate) Alkyl ether sulfate (laureth sulfate: sodium laureth sulfate) Sarcosines (sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) Sulfosuccinates (sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate)

Cationic

a type of surfactant; it does not foam well and do not remove grease as efficiently as anionic, it is also incompatible with anionics; this is also added in formulation when minimal cleansing is required.

Amphoterics

it is compatible with all classes of surfactants. it is non-irritating to the eyes, it also foam moderately, it increases manageability of the hair, and it is in combination with anionics

Amphoterics

its examples are Alkyl betaines (cocamidopropyl betaine, Lauryl betaine), alkylamino acids, Imidazolines (cocoamphocarboxyglyceinate, cocomphoacetate)

Non-Ionics

a type of surfactant; it is very mild, with ionic surfactants act as co-surfactants, it is rheology modifiers, solubilizers for insoluble component. 

Non-Ionics

its examples are Poloxamers, Amine oxides (cocamidopropylamine oxide), Polyglucosides (lauryl glucoside)

Thickeners

a component of surfactant; it provides the rheological properties (shear-thinning), it increases viscosity and influence the product feel. 

Thickeners

its examples are Salt (NaCl, NH4Cl), Gums (xanthan gum), Cellulose (Hydroxyethylcellulose), Other polymers (polyvinyl alcohol and acrylates copolymer)

Preservatives

a component of surfactant; it prevent the growth of microorganisms, its effect depends on concentration, pH and other components, it is pH sensitive.

Preservatives

its examples are Parabens, Isothiazolones, urea derivatives, Cationic surfactant (benzalkonium Cl), Benzoic acid (0.1-0.2%), Sodium benzoate (0.5-1%), Salicylic acid (0.1-0.2%), Sodium salicylate (0.5-1%), and Methyl para hydroxy benzoate (0.2- 0.5%)

Conditioners

a component of surfactant; it makes the hair soft, shiny, and easier to manage, important in dry hair, shampoos and shampoos for colored and bleached hair.

Conditioners

its examples are quats (a type of cationic surfactant), Humectants (glycerin), Proteins & Amino acids, Silicones (dimethicone)

pH buffers

a component of surfactant; it adjusts the pH of products

pH buffers

its examples are citric acid and glycolic acid

Opacifying and pearlescent/pearling agents

a component of surfactant; it provides a unique pearly, shimmering effect or a creamy appearance, it is also prone to separation and viscosity drops

Opacifying and pearlescent/pearling agents

its examples are polyglycol esters (glycol distearate, PEG distearate, ethylene glycol stearate, glyceryl monostearate), latex opacifiers, pearlescent color additives

Additional Ing.

a component of surfactant; it provides a unique feel or appearance for the products

Additional Ing

its examples are perfumes, botanical extracts (tea tree oil), vitamins (vitamin B5/panthenol)

Ketoconazole

a component of surfactant, it is considered as drugs, its example is Antifungal in anti-dandruff shampoos

Antidandruff

a component of surfactant; its examples are zinc pyrithione (0.5-1%), ketoconazole, coal tar, salicylic acid, Selenium sulfide, Sulfur, Clicopirox, Octopirox (0.2-0.5%)

False

True or False
In manufacturing process example #1 (clear), the main ingredient is dissolved in the water.

True

True or False
In manufacturing process example #1 (clear), the main detergent, foam booster, the hair functional additive and water are mixed together with gentle stirring to minimize frothing.

True

True or False
In manufacturing process example #2 (opaque), After the dissolving the main ingredient in water, add the foam booster to the above with stirring, and materials such as opacifiers and functional ingredients which present problems of dispersion.

True

True or False
In manufacturing process example #1 (clear), Citric acid is added carefully to the above mixture to adjust the pH to within the limits 5.6-6.2.

True

True or False
In manufacturing process example #3 (with hear), Mix by propeller stirring the functional ingredient and the foam booster. Then by using the same mixing regime add the main detergent to half the formulation water.

Quaternary Conditioners

a conditioning agent; it is a cationic detergents, it is attracted to the negatively charged hair fiber, it is beneficial for permanently colored or waved hair, and it is applied after shampooing and rinsed before drying the hair. 

Quaternary conditioners

its examples are: stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, quaterniums, Polyquaterniums

Film-forming conditioners

a conditioning agent; it is a coat hair fibers with a thin polymer layer, it fill in defects in the cuticle to create a smooth surface, it is an ideal conditioners for curly and kinky hair, and it is applied to towel-dried hair and are left on the hair. its example is PVP.

Protein-containing conditioners

a conditioning agent, it has small amounts of proteins that can penetrate the holes in the hair shaft and increase its fracture strength, it is derived from animal tissues, silk, and plants, are hydrolyzed smaller fragments. it strengthen hair shaft

Protein-containing conditioners

its examples are Collagen, Keratin, Silk protein, Soybean protein, Amino acid (glycine, arginine, glutamate, and aspartic acid)

Silicones

a conditioning agent; it forms a thin film on the hair, some are water resistant and remain on shaft even after washing the hair, and it is a surface lubrication. 

Silicones

its examples are, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, and Amodimethicone

Higher Alcohol

a component of hair conditioner; it affects viscosity and feel of use, it is also a branched-chain less viscous creams 

Higher Alcohol

its examples are Stearyl alcohol, Cetanol, Behenyl alcohol, Oleyl alcohol, Octyldodecanol (smooth&silky creams), Isostearyl alcohol (light&lubricous)

Esters

a component of hair conditioner; improve compatibility of oily ingredient, it also facilitates emulsification

Esters

its examples are Branch chain (Cetylethylhexanoate, Cetylisostearate), Straight chain (Cetyl palmitate, Stearyl stearate), Dimer acid esters (Dilinoleyl dilinoleate), Complicated structure (Castor oil, pentaerythrityl fatty acid)

Waxes

a component of conditioner; it easily absorb to hair, its examples are Lanolin, Beeswax, Jojoba oil, Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Liquid paraffin, Microcrystalline wax, Paraffin wax

Polymer

a component of conditioner; it achieve stabilization, thickening and sensory improvement

Polymer

its examples are Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Cationated guar gum, Merquat

Glycols

a component of conditioner; it gives luster and improve spreadability. hair felt soft when applied

Glycols

its examples are Glycerin, Dipropylene glycol, Propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol

Spreadability

it is a measure of the consistency of a lotion, cream, or gel, which refers to the ease of spreading a product on the skin.

Lipid-rich cream

this cream has poor spreadability with higher viscosity, making the cream greasy, tacky, and difficult to spread.

Extensometer

A test to determine spreadability; the area (diameter) is measured over which the sample spreads between the glass plates during a defined period of time. 

Penetration test

A test to determine spreadability; withdrawal of the probe from the sample provides information about adhesive characteristics that may be present

Extrudability

it is the capacity of product to be removed in the container

Firmness

it refers to the consistency of a product and indicates how much a product can resist an external force

hemispherical probe

Firmness is measured by using _________-

Actuation force

this test allows the force required to release liquid cleansing products from pump-head dispensers

Foamability

it is measure of how much foam can be generated from a product

half-life of the foams

Determine the foam height against time and calculate the ____________

True

True or False
Viscosity influences the rheological behavior of skin cleansing products. Its measurement is similar to that of other cosmetics and personal care systems.

viscometer

Foam viscosity is determined by using ___________

False

True or False
Density is another factor that contributes to foam stability: the denser the foam, the more unstable.

volume fraction of liquid

it is the most important parameter affecting the foam structure in a liquid foam

Valve voltmeter

Static electrification of dry hair (hair conditioner), is determined by ___________________

Combability

this is done to determine force required to comb the hair

Draize eye irritancy test

An Assessment of ocular irritation potential; Substance is placed in one eye, with the other eye serving as the control. The eyes are evaluated after 1 h and then at 24-h intervals for up to 14 days The eyes are continuously evaluated for up to 3 weeks or more. The level of irritation to the eyes is scored numerically by observation of the three major tissues of the eye (cornea, conjunctiva, and iris)

Hair fixatives

this reshape the hair, improve volume, increase shine, and maintain the style

Polymer-based products

A type of hair styling aids; it improves the hair volume and height by increasing the hair strand stiffness and hair fiber interactions; it coats hair fibers with a thin film layer and form links between the fibers

Emollient-based products

A type of hair styling aids; it helps smooth out frizz and increase hair shine by aligning fibers and reducing friction and can also have a conditioning effect on hair fibers; principles of depositing waxes and emollients on hair fibers

Polymers

it is responsible for holding the hair in the styled configuration, it is for stiffening hair

Copolymers

a polymer made by reacting two different monomers

PVP

compatible with water and alcohol and has good film-forming properties; its disadvantage is that it is sensitive to humidity that leads to becoming sticky

PVP with vinyl acetate

a PVP with more water resistant

Mousses

contain polymers that act as both fil-formers and conditioners, its example is polyquaterniums

False - low

True or False
*if False, correct the underlined word (ex. False - rightword)

In Thickeners, concentration is usually kept high in order to prevent them from coating the hair fibers and obstructing the adherence of the film-forming polymers

Solvents

this dissolve the polymers and act as vehicles for the formulations

Alcohol

in polymer-based product formulation; this is used in aerosols

Water

in polymer-based product formulation; this is first added to lower the production cost, it also causes slower drying time and tackiness upon application

Propellants

an essential ingredients in aerosol formulations (aerosol hair sprays and aerosol mousses), this expel the content of the aerosol can. Its examples are dimethyl ether, propane/butane, fluorinated hydrocarbons

Plasticizers

in polymer-based product formulation; it makes polymer films more flexible, its examples are Dimethicone, Castor oil, Mineral oil

Sunscreens

this provide protection against UV radiation, help maintain the attractive appearance of the hair, it stabilize the viscosity of gels. its examples are benzophenone-4, octyl  methoxycinnamate

Chelating Agents

this provide protection against metal ions, it also improve the stability of gels and it also increase the efficiency of preservative systems

Preservatives

this provide protection against microbial contamination in water-based systems. its examples are Parabens and Phenoxyethanol

Humectants

an additional ingredient; it contribute to the wet look provided by gels

Aerosol hair spray

it is most widely used hair styling products, it is released by propellant which releases very fine particles (mist)

Non-Aerosols hair spray

it is provided mechanically by the pump head (bigger droplet), it wets the hair more rapidly

pressure filling

Filling of the product concentrate and propellants in the aerosol cans is usually done via _____________-

Setting lotions

also called as “wave sets”, it coats the hair fibers and set them in a curled shaped. after removing the curling rollers, the hair is combed gently into the desired style

Hair mousses

it comes from aerosol type and non-aerosol forms. it is applied to towel-dried hair followed by drying and styling, it is designed to add volume, improve texture, and help control the hair mass

Hair Styling Fiber gums

also called as “putties” and also “Moulding clay”. its products are designed to add increased hold to the hair, it is also bendable and moldable styling products that can be used to create various hairstyle

Hair gels

this offers both a smooth hold and an extreme look with spikes, depending on whether the product is applied to wet or dry hair and whether the hair is blow-dried or air-dried

Anhydrous base

under emollient-based product formulations; provides a waxy, oily mass for the formulations; provides a hair conditioning effect, help reduce friction, and prevent damage, its examples are Beeswax, Petrolatum, Lanolin, Vegetable oils, Mineral oils, Silicones

Solvents

under emollient-based product formulations; a vehicle, its example is water

Surfactants

under emollient-based product formulations; an emulsifying agent, helps create emulsions and aids in removal of the product

Polymers

under emollient-based product formulations; it increases the hold level of the products 

Thickeners

under emollient-based product formulations; it changes the product’s viscosity and texture

Hair Pomades

also known as “cream brilliantines”. an anhydrous products based on petrolatum and various waxes (vegetable oil, beeswax and silicones), it is very thick and are designed to straighten, condition, and moisturize the hair as well as add shine to hair while reducing frizziness

Hair Brilliantines

it is a liquid based on oils and silicones; it allows for easy styling and add shine to the hair without providing a greasy appearance

Sprayable Oils and Silicones

also known as “oil sheen sprays”; it usually aerosolized oils that may also contain additional conditioning agents (proteins). it usually lighter on the hair; can be applied daily

Hair creams

an emulsion products providing modest hold and high gloss •O/W or W/O emulsions, which break down easily on application

bending test

a test on Evaluating Hair Styling Products, it is the force required to bend or break the polymer film is recorded = bending stiffness force, it is measured by tensile meter

T

T or F - Too much tackiness will, however, cause the hair to stick to the brush/hands to a point of making it difficult to style.