we are so cooked

Bi-parti or mi-parti

vertically divided halves of contrasting fabrics or patterns

Braies/Braccia/Breeches

more substantial linen undergarment; traditionally used to describe men’s undergarments; swaddled about the groin.

Braye

a triangle of fabric between the hose and the groin(?)

Chaperone

Worn in any way that framed the face. draped over the top, wrapped on the dome, worn with the opening around the face. Mostly for men, but sometimes women would wear them. Hood covering the shoulders, appears at the end of the 12th Century and stays in use until mid 15th century, with some variations.

Chemise (cotte)

They’re made exclusively of linen. T-shaped garment, usually long-sleeved. Basically a shirt, but longer for women.

Chopines

Wood-soled over-shoes. Elevated off the ground in order to protect the fine leather shoes worn with the chopping.

Cote-Hardie

basically a kirtle but is referred to as a tight fitted 14th c garment for both men and women, often with buttons or lacing.

Dagging

Dagging is created by cutting or slashing the edges of fabric with shears or scissors

Doublet/pourpoint/gipon

a protective layer between your body and your armor.

False sleeves

decorative fabric pieces attached to the bodice, typically worn to create an elaborate silhouette.

Giornea (in Italian), Heuque (in French)

tabard-style outermost garment worn by men or women. Could be short or long. Could be fur-lined or not. There are no sleeves on this garment.

Gores

triangular inserts/panels of fabric to create volume (flaring) typically in kirtles and bliauds

Gown (Burgundian style or otherwise)

used in the same way as tuxedo or suit. Probably composed of separate sleeves, bodice sections, and skirt. But it’s typically laced together.

Grande assiette tailoring

a large opening cut into the body of the article of clothing. The sleeve is set in with the assistance of gores. Enables a wider range of motion, used in the doublet.

Hennin

princess headgear!!! not common because it’s really over the top.

Hose

Tight-fitting leg coverings worn by men, typically made of wool or silk.

Houppelande

outer garment for men and women; it can vary in length, but the identifying feature is the organ pipe pleats in the front of the chest. Women generally belt theirs high under the bust, while men belt theirs lower slung on the hips under the belly.

Kirtle

A fitted dress or outer layer worn by women in the Middle Ages, often worn under other garments or as a standalone piece. a woman's gown or outer petticoat, a man's tunic or coat. Could be worn at informal occasions or work.

Liripipe

Long, narrow, tubular extension of cloth attached to a chaperone.

Surcote/surcoat

A long, outer garment, often a coat or overdress, commonly worn by both men and women, derived from the French phrase meaning "over the cotta".

Surcote ouvert

A type of surcoat with open sides, often featuring a decorative design. It was popular among knights and nobles to denote status.

Tippets

Long, narrow strips of cloth forming part of (or attached to) the sleeves of a cote-hardie.

Tunic

A tunic is a garment for the torso, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the ankles.

Veil

A piece of cloth worn by women over the head, shoulders, or face as part of their attire, often seen in religious contexts or formal occasions.

Boulevarts or upper hose

closely fitting upper hose, worn with a codpiece or nether hose.

Bum roll

Goes above the butt to make it look bigger and give it more shape.

Farthingale

precursor to the farthingale is the Saya Verdugada

• Spanish-style farthingale - undercoat/petticoat, a frame

• French style farthingale - wheel farthingale

Canions

looser-fitting hose worn with trunk hose (men only)

Chamarre

worn by men, open in the front, lined with fur or contrasting silk, with sleeve openings circled with puffed wings.

Coat/Overcoat

outermost garment worn by men, usually knee-length and fur-lined, worn open with dogaline sleeves (turned back) or slit sleeves that hang freely behind the arm.

Codpiece (or braguette) (lol)

A garment attached to the front of men's breeches to cover the male genitals, often padded or elaborately decorated.

Farthingale

Spanish-style farthingale - undercoat/petticoat, a frame

French style farthingale - wheel farthingale

Saya Verdugado - predecessor to the farthingale

Forepart

a richly-decorated triangular piece of cloth attached to the kirtle

Girdle

A form-fitting garment worn around the waist, often used to hold up skirts or support other clothing. Worn by both men and women.

Jerkin

A jerkin is a man's short close-fitting jacket, made usually of light-coloured leather, and often without sleeves, worn over the doublet.

Landsknecht

Landsknechts were exempt from sumptuary laws and the puffed and slashed look is a way of showing off expensive fabric as well as making looted clothes fit.

Overstocks/boothose

over-stockings or boot liners worn in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries to protect fine knitted stockings from wear. Socks?

Pannier

A pair of hoops used to expand a woman’s skirt at the sides.

Partlet

a sort of capelet. Made to cover the neck.

Peascod Belly

A type of exaggeratedly padded stomach that was very popular in men's dress in the mid-16th and early 17th centuries.

Petticoat

a skirt/another layer that isn’t meant to be seen. Achieves a smooth surface so you don’t see the ridges of the caning.

Ruff

A type of collar that is pleated or frilled, often made of lace or linen.

Saya for women, sayon for men

Both are open outer-garments worn long by women and knee-length for men. Men’s alternative to the Sayon was the Casaque.

Standing Collar

A type of collar that stands up around the neck.

stays/bodies/bodys

Worn on the upper part of the body. NOT a corset. Supports and shapes the body, ties in the front.

The stays represents THE look: a smooth, uninterrupted, conical surface

Sottana

The basic dress worn under another dress. In much of the 16th century, it was however worn alone, as the main garb. The soutane usually had tie-on sleeves, which could be changed at will.

Trunk hose

Attached to the bottom of the doublet with points. Bag outwards before fastening on the upper leg. Appearing like a puffy short skirt. They were often worn with canions, loose-fitting hose for the upper leg, ending at the knee.

Veste (gown)

The second half of the 16th century, it usually meant a close-fitting overdress - could only be worn with a skirt and sleeves underneath, with the chemise next to the skin and a bodice over the bust and torso. This was said to be “in the French style”, meaning it was inspired by fashion in France.

Vestito

Overgown

Slops

Loose hose that extend just below the knee; they can be paned. The longest of the breeches reaching to the calf

Pluderhosen

Northern European version of paned slops that have a very full layer sticking out loosely between the paning. Baggy from waist to the knee; baggy fabric hung down to hide the fastening at the knee

Venetians

Semi-fitting. Reaching the knee, they are padded at the thigh and grow slimmer to the knee.

Pumpkin Breeches

Theatrically full and round breeches, generally shorter, almost always paned. Made with contrasting vertical panels of fabric, which balloon outward.

Culots

Excessively short breeches