costumes neoclassical - victorian

paniers

hoopskirt

spanish farthingale

silk evening crinoline dress

crinoline daydress

under sleeves (engageantes and chemisette

pagoda sleeve (japonism): flares out into a full bell shape

bishop sleeve - lower arm fullness, gathers at the wrist

zouave jacket

crinoline flounce dress

paletot

swiss belt

1858 crinoline bathing

crinoline riding horseback

left to right: dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear - frock coat for daytime - sack jacket for less formal occasions

1860s tail coat, evening dress

frock coat, morning coat

left to right: tail coat, frock coat, morning coat

frock coats

sack jacket

capes/cloaks, hunting garb, paletot, frock coat

reefer or pea jacket, chesterfield, inverness cape

stove pipe top hats

shooting jacket

yatching costumes

neoclassicism - patriotique

rococo fashion era

1792-4 reign of terror france rococo fashion

late 18th century dress - robe a la anglaise

early 19th century - chemise dress

Lean verticals, some horizontal details vs Rectangles, cones & S curves

Long- legged look – progress, action

brassiere - early 19th century

petticoat

“Grecian bend”, created by using a hip or bum roll/ pad

directoire

The Chemise Dress

Remove the hip roll

One piece high waisted dress

Low draw string neck

Gathered at waist with ribbon sash

incroyables

merveilleuses

Female counterpart

wrinkled diaphanous gowns

extreme train length

extreme low decolletage

bareheaded or extreme bonnet

chopped hair

red ribbon “a la victim” at throat

classical revival : empire gown

empire/regency sleeves

empire dress 1820-25

a pelisse, a spencer, a shawl - empire/regency era

empire/regency era shawl

empire/regency era pelisse

empire/regency era spencer with poke bonnet

elizabeth revival, ruff collar, slashed sleeves, overall decoration returns

hair": “a la victime”

linen mob cap

bergere or shepherdess hat

straw bonnet hat

neoclassical riding clothes

neoclassical military uniform

fashion pace setter - english beau brummel

cravat

stock

pantaloons

cossack trousers

cutaway coat, m shaped notch on the lapel

neoclassical men’s dress coat

wore capes or overcoats

cape great coat. high collar shirt and vest, wrapped caravat

dressing gowns or banyans

lounge rope, military inspiration

bicorne with hatbox

jockey boot

hessian boots

bustle, cage bustle

bustle cage, horsehair

tourne/bustle

first bustle

second bustle

third bustle

transitional bustle era

first bustle era, full in the front, symmetry

second bustle era

third bustle era, asymmetry in the front

robe de chambre

third bustle dolman

90s skirt after the bustle era

yoke detail

aesthetic or artistic dress, no corset, no crinoline, no machine-produced decoration

aesthetic dress, velvet short jacket, flowing tie, breeches, soft floppy hats

japonism dress

cycling bloomers

bustle millinery styles

bustle frock coat, morning coat

morning coat, sack coat (middle and right)

inverness cape

straw boater

fedora hat

derby

top hats

romantic era

romantic era with puff sleeve, low cut, show ankles

fichu-pelerine

gigot sleevea type of sleeve that is full at the shoulder and tapered at the wrist, resembling a leg of lamb.

demi-gigot sleeves

beret sleeves

marie sleeves