Coasts

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32 Terms

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Constructive waves

Low height, long wavelength. Strong swash, weak backwash → builds beaches.

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Destructive waves

High height, short wavelength. Weak swash, strong backwash → erodes beaches.

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Mechanical weathering

E.g., Freeze-thaw: Water in cracks freezes, expands, and breaks rock.

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Chemical weathering

E.g., Carbonation: Rainwater (slightly acidic) reacts with limestone, dissolving it.

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Biological weathering

E.g., Roots of plants or burrowing animals break rocks apart.

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Hydraulic action

Waves force air into cracks, causing pressure and breaking the rock.

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Abrasion

Rocks thrown by waves scrape and wear down cliffs.

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Attrition

Rocks collide, breaking into smaller, rounder pieces.

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Solution

Water dissolves soluble rocks like chalk or limestone.

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Longshore drift

Waves hit the shore at an angle, swash carries sediment up the beach at an angle, backwash carries sediment back down perpendicular to the coastline.

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Deposition

Occurs when waves lose energy (e.g., in sheltered bays, low-energy environments).

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Sliding

Material moves down a slope in a straight line.

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Slumping

Saturated soil/rock slides down a curved surface.

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Rockfalls

Fragments of rock break off (often due to freeze-thaw weathering) and fall.

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Hard rock

E.g., granite: Forms headlands and cliffs due to resistance to erosion.

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Soft rock

E.g., clay: Erodes quickly, forming bays.

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Concordant coasts

Rock layers run parallel to the coast, creating coves.

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Discordant coasts

Rock layers are at right angles, forming headlands and bays.

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Headlands and bays

Form on discordant coasts due to differential erosion.

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Cliffs and wave-cut platforms

Waves erode the base of cliffs, causing collapse, leaving a platform.

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Caves, arches, stacks, and stumps

Crack → Cave → Arch → Stack → Stump (e.g., Old Harry Rocks, Dorset).

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Beaches

Formed by constructive waves depositing sand/shingle.

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Sand dunes

Sand blown inland, trapped by vegetation (e.g., marram grass).

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Spits

Long, narrow ridges of sand/shingle extending into the sea (e.g., Spurn Head).

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Bars

Spits that grow across a bay, trapping water behind to form a lagoon.

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Dorset Coast (Jurassic Coast)

Erosion: Durdle Door (arch), Lulworth Cove (cove), Old Harry Rocks (stack/stump). Deposition: Chesil Beach (tombolo), Studland Bay (sand dunes).

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Hard engineering

Sea walls: Protect cliffs but expensive and can cause erosion downstream.

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Rock armour (rip-rap)

Absorbs wave energy but looks unnatural.

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Groynes

Prevent longshore drift but starve beaches downstream.

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Soft engineering

Beach nourishment: Adds sand but needs regular maintenance.

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Dune regeneration

Protects land but easily damaged.

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Lyme Regis (Dorset)

Reasons: Protect historic town from erosion and landslides. Strategy: Sea walls, rock armour, beach nourishment.