Textiles Test 1

Fashion and textiles continue to evolve and many careers require knowledge of textiles.

• Tech

• History

• Better Consumer

Why is knowing textiles important?

Fiber content, yarn construction, fabric structure, fabric name, count, coloration method, finishes, and weight.

What are the elements of a textile?

Textile

Any flexible material made of thin film

Stages of Textile Manufacturing

• Greige

  • Fiber

  • Yarn

  • Fabric

• Converting

  • Dyeing

  • Printing

  • Finishing

Fiber

The basic unit from which all textile products are made (can be classified as natural or manufactured)

Yarn

A continuous strand made with fibers and used to knit or weave fabrics

Fabric

The cloth produced by interlacing or interlooping yarns, or by binding fiber webs

Dyeing

Adding color to textile materials or products

Printing

Applying dye, pigment, or other chemicals to produce designs on textile materials or products

Finishing

Typically the last step in the manufacturing process to prepare the fabric for use. It includes a variety of processes to enhance aesthetics and function.

Soft Goods

Products constructed of textiles and other flexible materials including apparel, interior textiles, and technical textiles

Hard Goods

Durable goods, which are manufactured items that are expected to last several years, such as appliances, furniture, and consumer electronics

Greige Goods

Goods that are not ready for sale

Converting

Changing appearance and/or enhancing performance

Major End Use Categories

• Apparel

• Household and Institutional Textiles

• Textiles for Interiors

• Technical Textiles

Fabric Performance

• Aesthetics (not measurable)

  • Physical Appearance

  • Drape Wrinkle & Crush Resistance

  • Dimensional Stability

  • Shape Retention

  • Snagging

  • Pilling

  • Colorfastness

• Comfort (not measurable)

  • Moisture Management

  • Air Permeability

  • Thermal Insulation

  • Stretch and Recovery

  • Static Charge Buildup

  • Tactile Properties

  • Skin Irritants/Allergens

• Durability (measurable)

  • Strength

  • Abrasion Resistance

  • Weathering Resistance

• Safety and Health

  • flammability

Coloration

Any dyeing or printing process used to add color with dyes or pigments to a textile

Physical Appearance

Color, luster, opacity

Color

with the exception of naturally colored fibers, color is primarily influenced by the selection of colorants and methods of adding color.

*most important to customer

Luster

• Sheen that results when light reflects off the surface

• Influenced by fiber shape, smoothness of yarns, fabric construction and some finishes

• Can be controlled

• shiny, sheen, lustrous, dull

Opacity

The ability of the fabric to hide the object behind it (affected by transmission of light through the fibers/ yarns + cover factor

• High opacity is typically desirable for pants and swimwear. (full coverage)

• Low opacity (transparent or translucent) fabrics are desirable for sheer curtains, lamps shades and sheer blouses (less coverage)

Covering power

the ratio of the surface covered with yarns to the total surface)

Drape

The way a fabric falls while it hangs

• Influenced by fiber/yarns/ fabric properties, finishes and hand

Wrinkle Resistance

The ability of a fabric to return to its original position when distorted due to bending or wrinkling

• influenced by resilience of the fibers, yarn properties, fabric structure and finishes

Crush Resistance

The ability of the material to return to its original configuration after compression

Dimensional Stability

The ability of fabric to resist shrinkage or gain during use and care

• calculated as percentage factor of shrinkage

Relaxation Shrinkage

Fabrics are stretched out during manufacture (looming/post washing), causing shrinkage when fabric is relaxed; irreversible

Felting Shrinkage

The scale surface of wool fibers interlock when the fabric is subjected to moisture, heat, and agitation; irreversible

Residual Shrinkage

A reduction in length resulting from fiber swelling when washed; often reversible

Shape Retention

Fabric's ability to retain its shape during use

Snagging

The pulling of yarn(s) during use

Pilling

The tendency of fibers to work loose from a fabric surface and form balled or matted particles of fiber that remain attached to the surface of the fabric

Colorfastness

A product's ability to retain color during use and care

• fading (sunlight)

• staining- crocking (rubbing), perspiration

• bleeding

• frosting (abrasion)

• color change- fumes

Repellency

The ability of the fabric to resist water penetration

Absorbency

The ability of the fabric to take in and hold water/perspiration

Wicking

The ability of the fabric to transport liquid water/water vapor from one location to another

Air Permeability

A measure of air flow through a fabric

Thermal Insulation

The fabric's ability to provide insulation by trapping air adjacent to the body

Stretch and Recovery

A fabric's ability to stretch and return to its original shape

Static Buildup

The charge that builds up in fabrics made of fibers with poor electrical conductivity and low moisture absorption

Fabric Hand

aka tactile properties; includes properties such as texture, stiffness, or smoothness that affect how a fabric feels when in contact with skin

Skin Irritants and Allergens

Addresses factors that may cause skin irritations due to allergic reaction or contact with a rough fabric surface

Durability

Properties that affect the ability of the fabric to perform satisfactorily throughout its life

Strength

A measure of the force required to break, tear, or in some other manner cause a fabric to rupture

Tensile/Breaking Strength

The force required to pull fabric apart longitudinally

Tearing Strength

The force required to rip fabric apart by tearing across the yarns

Bursting Strength

The force required to burst knit or non-woven fabrics in a multidimensional manner

Abrasion Resistance

Fabric's ability to withstand wear due to rubbing against another fabric or surface

Flat Abrasion

Wear of a fabric surface when the fabric is flat and stationary

Edge Abrasion

Wear of a fabric surface along a folded edge

Flex Abrasion

Wear of a fabric which results from repeated flexing or folding

Weathering

Fabric's ability to withstand environmental conditions such as sunlight, heat, and moisture as well as exposure to polluting gases

Safety and Health

• Related to issues of flammability, exposure to chemicals, protection from various types of radiation, pest resistance (bacteria, mold, insects) • Does it meet regulations? Does it work?

  o Federal and State laws

  o Must be tested

  o Environmental Impact—”sustainability

Apparel

Shirts, blouses, dresses, pants, shorts, activewear, sleepwear, sweaters, formalwear, suits, jackets, and accessories

Household and Institutional Textiles

Table linens, bed linens, towels, blankets, and shower curtains

Textiles for Interiors

Window treatments, upholstered furniture, lamp shades, comforters, wall hangings, cushions, throw pillows, and carpets

Technical Textiles

Packaging materials, protective clothing, medical applications, agricultural applications, outdoor furniture, automotive textiles, architectural applications, and geotextiles

Major Factors that Affect Fabric Selection

• Performance – What is important ?― aesthetics, comfort, durability

• Intended use – How and by whom will the product be used?

• Product care – Can it be washed or will it have to be dry cleaned?

• Cost – Is the cost comparable to similar items?

• Consumer preferences – Does the target market prefer eco-friendly products? Do they have a preference for natural fibers?

• Applicable laws and regulations

Aesthetics

Characteristics or properties that affect appearance when the item is new and during its first use

Comfort

Absence of discomfort or pain; enhanced by properties of the fabric that enable the body to maintain a stable core temperature, allow ease of body movement, and do not irritate the skin

• weather conditions, physical activity, and garment design affect comfort

Global Textile Complex

International mix of related industries that provide soft goods for the world

• Chemical industry

• Fiber industry

• Textile industry

• Firms who manufacture or design: Product Development, Design, Sourcing, Merchandising

• Textile End Uses: Interiors, Apparel, Technical

• Distribution Systems

Fabric Care

• Ironing

  • Ironing Temperature

  • Resiliency

  • Moisture Properties

• Cleaning

  • Washing/Drying

  • Dry Cleaning

  • Stain Removal

• Storage

  • Resistance to Insect Damage

  • Resistance to Mildew

  • Fabric Construction

What determines the correct care?

Fiber properties have a major impact on cleaning, ironing and storage

Why are care labels needed?

Care labels assist consumers in caring for textile items. Text and approved symbols communicate information regarding:

o Sorting – e.g., wash with like colors

o Washing – e.g., wash with cold water, gentle cycle

o Drying – e.g., low temperature, remove immediately

o Ironing - e.g., high setting with steam

o Dry Cleaning – e.g., solvent

Cellulosic Fibers

Fibers derived from plants; "ready-made"

• going to burn

• absorbant

Protein Fibers

Fibers derived from animals or insects

Generic Name

Name given to manufactured fiber based on chemical composition and natural fiber based on fiber source (established by the Federal Trade Commission)

Trademark Name

The name assigned to a fiber that meets the specified criteria; for manufactured, name is assigned by fiber manufacturer; for natural, name can be company or organization other than producer

Length

• Varies by variety/breed

• Used to determine quality of natural staple

• Affects fabric appearance, strength and hand

Staple Fibers

Short fibers, ranging from less than an inch to a few feet

Filament Fibers

Long continuous fibers extending for great lengths; long fibers contribute to a smoother and softer fabric hand

Fiber Structure

Includes appearance characteristics that are visible without (fiber length, color) and with a microscope (cross-section)

Polymers

• Makes up fibers

• Long chains of monomers

• Fiber structure and properties are dependent on polymer structure

Chain types

• Amorphous- weaker, easily elongated, poor elasticity, good moisture absorbency —> dyeability and flexibility, non-oriented

  • Ex. cotton, wool, rayon

• Crystalline- Strong, stiff, do not stretch much or easily but recover quickly, oriented, pack tightly

  • Ex. Polyester, nylon, aramid, flax

Surface Contour

Longitudinal view

• used to identify natural fibers

• can affect cohesiveness, luster, opacity, hand, texture, and apparent soiling

Shape

Cross-section

• can affect performance, cohesiveness, luster, opacity, hand, texture, and apparent soiling

Fineness

a relative measure defined by diameter, cross-sectional area, linear density, perimeter, and mass-per-unit length; size of fiber; finer = higher quality = more expensive

• affects drape, hand, wrinkle, strength

Cohesiveness

The ability of fibers to cling together; important for yarn spinning

• Good- cotton , wool

• Bad- silk, polyester

Crimp

A fiber's waviness

Fiber Properties

Include physical, chemical, moisture, biological, and other properties

Tenacity

Fiber's strength per unit size, affects the tensile, tearing, bursting strength

Modulus

Fiber's resistance to extension

*not an indication of strength

Elongation

Fiber's ability to extend when it is pulled along its length until it breaks

• affects comfort and appearance

Elastic Recovery

Fiber's ability to return to its original length after it has been stretched

• affects strength, shape retention, comfort, appearance

Resiliency

Fiber's ability to recover after it has been deformed by compression (crushed, crumpled, twisted)

Flexibility

Fiber's ability to bend or fold without weakening

• affects hand, drape, resistance to edge abrasion

Absorption

Fiber's ability to take in water

• affects comfort, static buildup, dimensional stability, stain removal, dyeability, etc.

Hydrophillic

Fibers absorbs moisture

Hydrophobic

Fibers do not absorb moisture

Hygroscopic

Fibers absorb moisture without feeling wet (wool, silk)

Adsorption

Fiber's ability to hold water on its surface

Affinity

Fiber's ability to adsorb and absorb oily substances

Oleophilic

Fibers have an affinity for oil

Oleophobic

Fibers have no affinity for oil

Resistance to Chemicals

Fiber's ability to withstand contact with acids, alkalis, oxidizing agents, and organic solvents

• Resistance depends on

  • Chemical composition and fiber structure

  • Concentration and amount chemical

  • Duration of chemical contact with the fiber

Resistance to Sunlight

Prolonged exposure to sunlight may cause degradation of certain fibers (silk, olefin, nylon)

Burn tests

used to identify fiber groups since fibers in each group have similar properties

• Cotton- continues burning, smell burning paper, ash

• Flax- continues burning, burning paper, ash

• Wool- self extinguishes, burning hair, crushable bead

• Silk- self extinguishes, burning hair, crushable bead

Thermoplastic Fibers

Fibers that melt when heated or burned

Nonconbustible

Do not ignite or give off vapors that will ignite, but will burn with enough heat

Combustible

Will ignite when subject to external ignition