Milady Ch. 5 Skin Analysis

Why should estheticians have a thorough understanding of skin analysis?

An individual's skin type and conditions must be analyzed correctly to determine the appropriate treatment and products; to determine the causes of skin conditions and any contraindications to treatment or products that the client may have; being able to identify healthy habits and behavior that is detrimental to skin health gives a better understanding of how to help clients.

What is skin type?

A classification that describes a person's genetic skin attributes.

What determines a person's skin type?

Genetics and ethnicity.

What is skin type primarily based on?

How much oil is produced in the follicles from the sebaceous glands and the amount of lipids found between the cells.

What is the T-zone?

The center area of the face, formed by the forehead, nose and chin.

What is the first step in determining skin type?

Evaluating the pores in the T-zone.

What do all skin types need?

Proper cleansing, exfoliating, hydrating, and protecting.

What is palpation?

Manual manipulation of tissue by touching to make an assessment of its condition.

How do you identify skin types and conditions?

Visual abilities, palpation, and consultation.

How are skin types categorized?

Normal, combination, oily, dry.

What is primarily a condition and not a skin type?

Sensitive skin.

What is recommended for combination skin?

Water-based products.

What should you avoid with combination skin?

Harsh products and rough exfoliation.

How is combination skin treated?

Cleansing and regular exfoliation.

What causes combination skin?

Overproduction of oil in the T-zone.

Oil and hydration on combination skin is considered to be what?

Moderate to high; good to dehydrated.

Where on the face of a client with combination skin are the follicles medium to larger?

Larger in the T-zone.

What does combination skin look like?

Can have buildup of dead skin and oil in pores around nose but dry or flaking skin outside of T-zone; some blemishes and comedones.

What does combination skin feel like?

Oilier in center T-zone than sides of face.

Oil and hydration on normal skin is considered to be what?

Balanced; balanced.

A client with normal skin has what sized follicles?

Very small.

What does normal skin look like?

Uniform luminosity; no or rare blemishes.

What does normal skin feel like?

Soft, smooth texture; good elasticity.

How is normal skin treated?

Maintenance and prevention treatments

Oil and hydration on oily skin are considered to be what?

Moderate to high; good to dehydrated.

A client with oily skin has what size follicles?

Moderate to large.

What does oily skin look like?

Shiny; comedones and blemishes may be present.

What does oily skin feel like?

thick and firm, uneven due to congestion.

How is oily skin treated?

Regular cleansing and exfoliation and hydrating with water-based products; treatments to balance oil production.

What causes oily skin?

Overproduction of oil due to genetics, hormonal changes, medication, stress, or environmental factors; Overexfoliation can be a cause as sebaceous glands work to increase surface dryness.

Oil and hydration on dry skin are considered to be what?

Minimal production; minimal production.

A client with dry skin has what size follicles?

difficult to visualize, fine pores.

Dry skin looks like what?

Dull, lack of luminosity, flaking, blotchy.

Dry skin feels like what?

Rough, thin, tight.

How is dry skin treated?

Oil-based products to provide protection of the acid mantle and increase the barrier function; treatments to provide nourishment and protection.

Dry skin often has compromised what?

Transepidermal Water Loss

What causes dry skin?

Underproduction of oil due to genetics, environmental factors, hormones.

What is the Fitzpatrick Scale?

A scale used to measure the skin type's ability to tolerate ultraviolet exposure.

What are the general characteristics of a Fitzpatrick Type 1?

Very fair; blond or red hair; light colored eyes; freckles are common; always burns, peels with burn, does not tan.

What are the general characteristics of a Fitzpatrick Type 2?

Light skinned; blue, hazel or brown eyes; red, blonde or brown hair; burns easily, usually peels, tans minimally.

What are the general characteristics of a Fitzpatrick Type 3?

Fair to olive skin; brown eyes; dark hair; tans well, burns moderately.

What are the general characteristics of a Fitzpatrick Type 4?

Light brown skin; dark eyes and hair; tans easily, burns minimally, experiences immediate pigment response.

What are the general characteristics of a Fitzpatrick Type 5?

Dark brown skin; dark eyes and hair; rarely burns, tans easily and significantly.

What are the general characteristics of a Fitzpatrick Type 6?

Dark brown, black skin; dark eyes and hair; rarely/never burns, tans easily.

What are the characteristics of sensitive skin?

Fragile, thin skin and redness.

What causes fragile or thin skin?

Age or medications.

Why can sensitive skin be difficult to treat?

It has a low tolerance for products and stimulation.

What is noticeable on sensitive skin?

Telangiectasia or couperose skin conditions which appear as red, distended capillaries.

Fitzpatrick Skin Type 4 can become hyperpigmented from what?

Treatments or aggressive exfoliating agents.

Hyperpigmentation is a result from what?

Sun damage.

What slows down hyperpigmentation?

Sun protection.

Why do Fitzpatrick Skin Types 5 and 6 need more exfoliation and deep pore cleansing?

They are prone to a form of hyperkeratosis (ichthyosis) and dead skin cell build up.

What may be more challenging to see on darker skin, but may also be just as intense as those on lighter skin?

Reactions

What do all skin types need to maintain healthy skin?

An individualized skin care consultation and treatment plan.

Darker skin types are considered to be what in comparison to lighter skin types?

Oilier and thicker, but can have the same level of reactivity.

Darker skin types have more what to produce more melanin than lighter skin types?

Melanocytes

What do the neck and decollete have fewer of on the face that tends to show aging more quickly?

Sebaceous glands.

What develops just as much on the neck and chest as the face?

Broken capillaries and rhytids (wrinkles).

A new phenomenon caused by the repeated movement of looking down at a cell phone is called what?

Tech Neck.

What do the neck and decollete need just as much as the face does?

SPF protection.

What are solar comedones?

Large blackhead, usually around the eyes, due to sun exposure.

What are wrinkles?

Lines and damage from internal or external causes.

What are some of the most common skin conditions estheticians see today?

Adult acne, extrinsic aging and problems relating to hormonal fluctuations.

Stress, lifestyle, attitudes, free radicals in the body, dehydration, vitamin deficiency, improper nutrition, alcohol, caffeine, genetics, hormones, puberty, pregnancy, and menopause are all examples of what type of effects on the skin?

Internal/intrinsic

What is the main external/extrinsic cause of aging?

Sun damage.

What are extrinsic factors?

Primarily environmental factors that contribute to aging and the appearance of aging.

What are intrinsic factors?

Skin-aging factors over which we have little control because they are a part of our genetics and familial heredity.

UV exposure, tanning beds, environmental exposure, pollutants, air quality, climate, inappropriate skin care, misuse of products/treatments, overexfoliation, allergies and photosensitivity are all examples of what type of effects on the skin?

External/extrinsic

What is photosensitivity?

Sensitivity to the sun from medications or products.

What is Hypertrichosis?

Refers to any excess hair growth, whether it is caused from a hormonal imbalance or heredity.

What are rhytids?

Fine lines or wrinkles.

What is Hirstutism?

Excess body hair located in regions where hair is not normally present, such as facial hair for women and is commonly caused by a hormonal imbalance.

What is Striae?

Dermal scars due to rapid expansion or stretching of connective tissue leaving deep red, pink or purple linear marks on the skin that gradually fade to light pink or sliver over time; often occur during growth phases in puberty, pregnancy, and weight gain; AKA stretch marks.

What does dehydrated skin lack?

Water

What causes asphyxiated skin?

Lack of oxygen.

What type of treatments are contraindicated for clients with epliepsy?

Electrotherapy and phototherapy.

What are contraindications?

Factors that prohibit a treatment.

What types of treatments are contraindicated for clients with metal bone pins or plates in the body?

Electrical treatments.

When should you avoid waxing, exfoliation, peeling treatments, or stimulating treatments on a client?

Use of skin-thinning or exfoliating topical medications or oral steroids.

What record includes your notes from skin analysis and home care recommendations?

Client chart.

What is the client consent form?

A customary written agreement between the esthetician and the client for applying a treatment, whether routine or preoperative.

Why is the client consent form important?

The client reads and signs the document, acknowledge that they understand what is being done to them as well as the risks involved in the treatment and releasing you from liability before you perform the services.

What is the best tool for analyzing the skin?

Magnifying lamp/light; a Woods lamp.

Why is educating clients on healthy habits and the causes of skin conditions part of the service?

Products, ingredients, different types of facials, and a home care regimen for preventative maintenance are all beneficial in caring for the skin.

What does a Wood's lamp do?

Illuminates skin disorders, fungi, bacterial disorders, and deeper levels of pigmentation using a filtered black light.