Fencing for Horses

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17 Terms

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Fencing

  • Horses evolved to live in prairie grassland and covered long distances undeterred by artificial barriers

    • Accidents

  • Smaller areas needs more visible and substantial space

  • Unlike ancient horsemen who were limited to sticks and stones to enclose their horses, we benefit from a wide variety of traditional and modern materials from which to choose

  • Unfortunately, despite over years of development, there’s still no ideal fence for every horse-keeping purpose

    • Each fence choice involves balancing safety concerns with aesthetics, cost, and maintenance

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Horse fence safety

Building codes ultimately determine fencing requirements but some general rules of thumb apply nearly everywhere

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Field fences should be 54 to 60 inches above ground level

Go with a 5-feet minimum height where fences about highways or anywhere that an escaped horse can flee your premises

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Safe minimum height for stall runs and paddocks

Six feet

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At bottom, an opening of 8 to 12 inches will keep feet and legs from getting trapped, and also prevent foals from rolling under the fence

Fence openings should be either large enough that a hoof, leg, or even the head can’t become trapped, or very small (no more than 3 inches by 3 inches) to prevent a hoof from getting through

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To maintain tension, most wire fences require triangular shaped bracing at the corners and at intervals of about 1/8 mile

  • The acute angles formed by brace wires represent entrapment hazards if the horse can reach them

  • Good design (such as boards used in corners to block access) can prevent injury, even death

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Visibility, especially with wire fencing, is too often overlooked

  • While a white plank fence of wood or PVC is easily seen by horses, wires can almost be invisible when a horse panics

  • Improve visibility to wire fences by adding a top rail of wood, PVC, or durable white vinyl fence ribbon, either standard of electrified

  • This makes a wire fence more visible and also deters horses from reaching over the fence to graze

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Regardless of fence material and design, one of your goals should be to present a smooth side to the horses

  • Exposed posts can injure a horse that runs down the fence line

  •   In such cases, using an electric fence wire to create a psychological as well as a physical barrier offers a safe solution

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Corners also present problems, especially if you plan to pasture horses that don’t get along well

  • Any corner can create an entrapment situation where one horse is bullied

  • The problem is especially bad when to corner angle is acute (90 degrees or less)

  • Some solutions include corners that curve

  • This requires placing wire fence barriers on the outside of the posts, but this is less of a problem in corners than it is along straight runs

  • Another solution is to affix planks across corners to block access

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Characteristics of a good fence

  • Should be safe and adequate

    • Horses allowed as much outside, free exercise as much as possible

  • Should be sturdy especially when horses lead or rub against it

  • Should be at least 5 ft high

    • Foals, miniature horses, and ponies should be discouraged from rolling or getting caught underneath the fence

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Wire

  • Barbed wire often used but the most dangerous fencing material even in large pastures

  • Can cause severe injuries and lasting scars

  • Wire fences can be supported by strand of electric fence

  • At least 4-5 strands for proper security

    • Kept tight and must be visible

      • Add top rail of wood

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Electric fence

  • Made of synthetic materials with fine wires interwoven throughout with plastic posts

    • Visible and inexpensive fence

  • Good for dividing grazing area but not as boundary fence

  • Comes as wire, rope, or webbing

    • Carries mild shock but does not cause injury to animals and people

  • Inexpensive and easy to install but if electricity fails, easily broken

    • Excellent temporary fence to keep horses away from fencing

  • In residential areas, warning should be posted

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Wood

  • Classic form, either painted as planks or natural round rails

  • One of the safest

    • Best option for small paddocks, pens, corrals and pastures

  • Expensive, high maintenance, not completely without safety concerns

    • Splinter, nails, lacerations

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Wood-like synthetics

More expensive, safer, low maintenance

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Cable

  • Combined with top rain, pipe, or wood

  • Reasonably safe but should be kept tight

    • Cannot be easily cut my humans

  • Less expensive than wood or pipe

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Metal pipes

  • Fairly safe, most expensive, low-maintenance and strong

  • Will not break but potential injury

  • Most suitable for small areas

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Solid masonry fence

  • Brick or fieldstone

  • High visibility, durability, strength, safety

  • Expensive

    • Labor and takes longer to build