Coastal Landscapes: Wave Types and Characteristics

Vocabulary flashcards covering wave formation, coastal processes, wave characteristics, and tsunamis.

Fetch

The distance the wind blows across the water, which impacts the height and strength of a wave.

Tsunami

Massive, destructive waves formed when earthquake or volcanic activity takes place under water.

2011 Japan East Coast Tsunami

A tsunami in 2011 caused by underwater activity that produced a wall of water up to $39\,m$ high, destroying the Japan East Coast and killing thousands of people.

Swash

The water that rushes up the beach after a wave breaks onto the coast.

Backwash

The water that flows back down the beach after rushing up.

Wave Crest

The top of a wave that falls forward and breaks onto the beach when friction slows down the base of the wave.

Circular Water Movement

The pattern of water movement in the open sea where there is little horizontal movement of water.

Elliptical Water Movement

The oval-shaped movement of water that occurs as a wave approaches the shallow coast and friction slows the base of the wave.

Wave Breaking Condition

The point at which a wave breaks, occurring when the ratio of wave height to wave length reaches $1:7$.