textiles exam III

warp beam

holds the warp yarns under tension and releases them as fabric is woven

harnesses

frames that hold heddles and control which warp yarns are raised or lowered to form a pattern.

heddles

wires or cords with an eye that each warp yarn passes through

used to lift or lower warp threads.

reed

comb-like frame that spaces warp yarns evenly and beats the weft yarn into place.

shuttle

device that carries the weft yarn across the loom through the shed

cloth beam

rolls up the finished woven fabric as weaving progresses

shed

opening formed when warp yarns are raised and lowered for the shuttle to pass through.

pick

insertion of a single weft yarn across the warp.

beat

process of pushing the weft yarn into place with the reed

take up

the motion that winds newly woven fabric onto the cloth beam.

warp yarns

lengthwise yarns

stronger, have more twist, and are held under tension.

weft yarns

crosswise yarns

less twist, more flexible, interlace with warp yarns.

lengthwise grain

runs parallel to warp yarns

most stable direction.

crosswise grain

runs perpendicular to warp

has moderate stretch.

bias grain

runs diagonally (45°)

has the most stretch.

off grain bow

occurs when weft yarns curve across the fabric instead of staying straight.

off grain skew

occurs when weft yarns slant from one selvage to the other.

fabric count

number of warp and weft yarns per inch (e.g., 80 × 76).

balance

ratio of warp to weft yarns

(1:1 = balanced, 2:1 or 3:1 = unbalanced).

plain weave

simplest weave

each weft passes over and under each warp yarn.

twill weave

weave with diagonal ridges

created by offsetting interlacing points.

satin weave

smooth weave with long floats

gives fabric luster.

half basket weave

variation of plain weave

two yarns act as one in either warp or weft.

full basket weave

variation where two or more yarns act as one in both warp and weft

loose, flexible fabric.

balanced lightweight plain weaves

organdy, georgette, voile, batiste

balanced medium weight plain weaves

gingham, chambray, muslin, percale

balanced heavyweight plain weaves

tweed, burlap

unbalanced plain weaves

taffeta, ottoman, grosgrain.

basket weave

oxford cloth

twill examples

right-handed twill, left-handed twill, herringbone, houndstooth

satin examples

warp-faced satin, fill faced sateen

satin

warp-faced, made from filament fibers (shiny)

dobby weave

small geometric patterns made using a dobby attachment.

examples: dobby, hucka-buck, birdseye pique, spot weave (cut or uncut).

jacquard weave

large, intricate designs created with a jacquard loom.

examples: damask, brocade, tapestry.

leno weave

warp yarns are twisted around each other to hold the weft yarns in place.

example: marquisette.

double cloth

two separate sets of warp and weft yarns woven together to form a reversible fabric.

double weave

fabrics made with two layers that may be interlaced at points.

matelasse

figured fabric with a raised or quilted effect.

corduroy

pile weave with cut vertical ribs (wales).

crushed pile velvet

velvet with an irregular, crushed surface.

terrycloth

uncut loop pile fabric used for towels.

tufted pile fabric

loops of yarn stitched into a base fabric

common in carpets and upholstery.

seersucker

fabric with puckered and flat areas created by slack tension weaving.

wale

vertical column of loops in a knit fabric.

course

horizontal row of loops in a knit fabric.

weft knit

loops interlooped horizontally

can unravel easily, stretch in both directions.

warp knit

loops interlooped vertically

do not unravel, more stable.

jersey knit

single knit fabric

smooth face and purl (looped) back.

rib knit

knit and purl stitches alternate

excellent stretch, same look on both sides.

purl knit 

courses of knit and purl stitches alternate

looks the same on both sides, softer and thicker.

sateen

weft-faced, made from spun yarns (softer sheen)