Textiles - Trials/HSC

Principles of Dyeing

1. Dissolving

2. wetting out

3. immersion

4. agitation

5. migration

6. diffusion

7. fixation

Method of Dyeing

• batch → through dye bath

• winch → sewn onto tube, lifted in and out

• jig → rolled back and forth

• pad → pad force dye in

• continuous → machines

• foam

• artistic → resistance

Environmental issues of Dyeing

• pollution

• health concerns

• change requires innovation and money

Stages of Dyeing

• pre-fibre → manufactured fibre, expensive, even colours

• fibre → good quality, expensive

• yarn → patterns, expensive

• fabric → quick response to trends, blends can dye differently

• product → cheap, quick, uneven results

Principles of Printing

1. printing bed with soft resist

2. print paint

3. print tool pressed onto fabric

4. registration

5. heat-set

6. washed to remove debris

Methods of Printing

• direct → small

• Block → carved, small

• roller → large

• warp → warp yarns, large

• heat transfer

• digital

• discharge → bleach

• resist → stencil, hand/machine screen

Embroidery and Applique

Embroidery involves stitching patterns onto the fabric

Appliqué adds fabric shapes on top of the base fabric

Swimwear Design Development

1. Pre 1900s → wool full length gowns

2. Early 20th century → from woollen bloomers (sewn in weights) to more fitted post WW1

3. Mid 20th century → technological innovation, bikini, self expression

4. Late 20th - Early 21st century → anything acceptable, high performance, inclusivity, sustainability

Swimwear → Technological Innovation and Impact

Fabric innovation

• synthetic fabrics

• improved fit and comfort

• quick drying

• increase stretch

• reduce water absorption

Performance Enhancements

• Shark-Skin Inspired → reduce drag, muscle compression reduce fatigue

• Xtra Life Lycra → hold shape, resists fading and sun, more durable

Swimwear → Time period Influence

Pre 1900s

• OF = societal norms, upper class

Late 19th - Early 20th Century

• OF = increase participation, technological advances

• ON = beach culture

Mid 20th Century

• OF = post-war freedoms and personal expression, feminism

• ON = synthetic fibres, tighter costumes

Late 20th Century - Present

• OF = body image, inclusivity, environmental concerns

• ON = fitness culture, campaigns

Peru → Textiles Production Forms

Alpaca Fibre and Wool

• finer, softer

• more valuable

• water resistance and breathable when woven

Spinning

• drop spindle (pushka)

• feminine activity

• takes years to master

Natural Dyes

• Red → cochineal (small insects)

• Blue → tara boiled with yarn

Peru → Textile Art Forms

Embroidery

• capture Peruvian motifs of people, flora, fauna and shapes

Weaving

• backstrap weaving loop

Knitting

• hand needle to create high-quality with intricate designs

• internationally recognised

• source of income for women

Peru → Textiles as Communication

• symbols carry meanings that are not easily translated

• express identity, social status

• record historical events

• oral language so a way of converting thoughts and impressions

Peru → Textiles as Self Expression

Weaving

• shape identities and lives

• becomes a community activity

• measure of wealth and role in society

Clothing

• Lliclla → handwoven shawl for carrying and decoration

• Chumpi → woven belt

• Chullo → mens bowler hat, indicates marital status, religion, status, occupation

Peru → Effects of Peru on Contemporary Textile Design

• Traditional Patterns and Motifs

• Colour Pallets

• Silhouettes

Peru → External Influences

Economy

• rich deposits of natural resources

• agricultural potential

• traditional textile industry

• tourism industry

Political

• ½ population live in poverty

• social discrimination

Social Life

• weaving is both social and communal

Environment

• most ecologically diverse country in the world

Peru → Cultural Influences

Geographical Location

• Coast, Peruvian Highlands, Amazon rainforest

• Pacchanta → follow rules of Inca Ancestors

Available Resources and Technological Developments

• alpacas

• sheep

• pima cotton

• technological advancements → machinery

Religion

Workers skill and status

• Skills → passed down through generations

• status → rural vs city, upper class, clothing

Viktor & Rolf → Background and Style

Background

• met at Dutch Arnhem Academy of Art and Design

• big break at french fashion festival

Style

• bring together art and fashion through highly sculpted, distorted and exaggerated pieces

Viktor & Rolf → Trends

Impacting Trends

• sustainability

• inclusivity

• Comme Des Garcons → sculptural art

• Surrealist artists

Impact on Trends

• catwalks as performances

• fashion appreciated as fine art

Viktor & Rolf → Internal Influences

Expertise

• Schooling qualifications

• originally did everything themselves, now highly skilled team

• idea orientated and work collaboratively

Finance

• dutch government grants

• produce ready to wear → ‘Ready to Wear’ Collection 2014

• collaboration with H&M

• Only The Brave → NPO that bought a large share of company allow freedom to focus on haute couture

Diffusion Line

• Perfume and accessories → bon bon, flowerbomb

• "Flowerbomb’ collection → message of positivity

Facilities

• based in Amsterdam

• isolated atmosphere to choose when to enter the fashion world

Viktor & Rolf → External Influences

Politics

• job uncertainty, raised interest, less disposable income to spend on haute couture

• V&R dolls → commemoration

• ‘Red Carpet’ Collection → statement towards paying top models and celebrities too much

Society

• ‘Atomic Bomb’ Collection → in touch with mood of the turn of the century, elements removed to showcase ready to wear, honoured great 20th century designers

• ‘Boulevard of Broken Dreams’ Collection → recycled couture

• stopped using use animal skills in their collections

Technology

• embrace new opportunities with new fabric, machinery, social media

• ‘Homage to the Blue Screen’ Collection → used blue screen technology to create effects, detailed garments destroyed with projected image

Economy

• moved to cheaper fabrics

• ‘Credit Crunch Couture’

Fibre Properties

Staple

• Cotton → cellulose, crystalline, anything

• Wool → crimped, semi-crystalline, thermal properties, luxury, furnishings

Manufactured

• Polyester → melt-spun polymers, semi-crystalline, anything

• Nylon → melt-spun polymers, semi-crystalline, stockings

• Rayon → cotton linters, amorphous, bandages

• Elastomeric → polyurethane blend, amorphous, lycra, spandex

Yarn

Types

• Staple → staple fibres, apparel, absorbent

• Monofilament → single filament, strong

• Multifilament → multiple filament strong, smooth

Twist

• high → smooth, strong, quick drying

• low → soft, good insulation, weak

Spinning methods

• staple spinning → cotton and wool, involves carding, combing drawing and twisting

• extrusion spinning → manufactured

Fabric

Wool

• Plain → durable, shirts, dresses, formal wear

• Twill → denim, durable, work wear

• Satin → lustrous, good drape, formal wear

• Speciality → jacquard, crape, pile, decorative with texture

Kint

• Weft (stretch) Warp (stable)

• Single → weft, jumpers, shirts

• Double → weft, good drape, good dimensional stability, apparel

• Pile → weft, good absorbancy, poor durability

• Lace → warp

• Net → warp

Non-woven

• felts, web, films

• disposable and industrial

Finishes that Enhance Appearance

Delustering

• powder added to synthetic fibre solutions to reduce lustre

Mercerising

• cotton immersed in alkali solution causing fibres to swell and straighten

Napping

• pressed over barbed rollers to create softer surface

Finished that Improve Dimensional Stability

Sanforising

• cotton stretched over rollers and heated, compressed and heated again

• minimal shrinkage

Superwash Wool

• chemical treatment to allow wool to be machine washed and dried

• resin film to reduce friction

Finishes for Environmental Protection

Water repellent

• hydrophobic chemicals cause water to remain on surface

Flourochemistry

• applies to create a barrier to stains and oils

• e.g. scotch gard

Antimicrobials

• chemical treatment applied to fibre or fabrics to control growth of bacterial, fungi or dust mights

• e.g. microban

Environmental Impact and Alternatives → Raw Material Extraction & Processing

Growing Natural

• contaminated soil, leaches nutrients

• organic materials

Processing of Synthetics

• uses non-renewable, toxic, pollution

• alternative fibre sources

Environmental Impact and Alternatives → Manufacturing/Packaging & Distribution

Fabric Production

• finite resources, chemical fumes, water/energy usage

• new technology, chemical-free

Finished

• toxic, health hazards, disposal, water/energy usage

• naturally colour materials

• Biodegradable dyes

Apparel production

• waste from offcuts, plastic packaging

• low waste patterns, recycled packaging

Environmental Impact and Alternatives → Product Use

Consumer use of Product

• packaging waste, chemical care, excess from changing trends

• classic designs, long lasting

Recycling and Reusing Textiles

• circular economy

• seamless scheme

Government Legislation

Environmental Hazardous Chemicals Act 1985

• Regulate manufacture processing, conveying, buying, selling or disposal of chemicals

Contaminated Land Management Act 1997

• Respond to contamination that poses risk to human and environment health

Waste Avoidance & Resource Recovery Act 2001

• Promotes waste avoidance and resource recovery

Impact of Globalisation on Design, Manufacture, Distribution, Markets

Design

• global migration, trade, culture, communication

• cross culture inspiration

• global networking

Manufacturing

• overseas → lower costs, efficient

• Extended Overseas Assembly Provisions

• value added goods set apart from imports

Distribution

• e-commerce reduces time, transport, costs

Markets

• understand opportunities of overseas trends, strategies, change

• develop strong export markets to remain competitive

• AusTrade

Ethical Issues Associated with Globalisation

• sweatshops

• Initiatives to support ethical clothing

Change in consumer demands

• must meet consumer demands to remain competitive

Market place 4 Ps

Product 

• What is offered to the customers

• Quality, key features, packaging, labeling

Place

• Direct selling

• Wholesale selling

Price

• Reflect demographics, current market trends, quality

Promotion

• To inform, persuade and remind consumers about a business’ products 

• personal selling, advertising, sales promotion, publicity

Product Life Cycle

1. Introduction Stage 

• Product launched into the market and consumers have little knowledge regarding quality and advantages 

2. Growth Stage 

• Consumers become aware of the product and sales increase 

3. Maturity Stage 

• Greatest sales and profit 

4. Decline Stage 

• Replaced by a newer or better product is remained unchanged